Entry-level hand plane?

[Alf]

What's the best hand plane for a beginner who doesn't want to spend a fortune?

D'you know, I'd be tempted to say "old wooden jack"? Certainly cheap enough, and no frog or adjustments to stress over. Oh, except folks often seem to worry about setting wedged planes correctly. But there is advice knocking about on how to do that nowadays (Philly did a vid, iirc?), so yup. Wooden jack. How's that for a daring suggestion?

Of course the real answer is there isn't any plane suitable if you don't want to spend a fortune. Oh, you may not spend a fortune on the first one, but after that...

 

[studders]

What's the best hand plane for a beginner who doesn't want to spend a fortune?

D'you know, I'd be tempted to say "old wooden jack"? Certainly cheap enough, and no frog or adjustments to stress over. Oh, except folks often seem to worry about setting wedged planes correctly. But there is advice knocking about on how to do that nowadays (Philly did a vid, iirc?), so yup. Wooden jack. How's that for a daring suggestion?
.

Well now, I did buy one of these, the larger one. Guess what.... I spend so much time trying to set the blade to the cut I want, just too far out, not quite far enough, tappety tap, tappety tap... but.... when I do get it right it's lovely to use, as is this one.
So, a good suggestion I say. Just need to 'hone' my adjustment skills a tad.

 

[woodbloke]

So.....

What's the best hand plane for a beginner who doesn't want to spend a fortune?

Anyone??


Hello!!!

A QS of some denomination from Workshop Heaven...it ain't rocket wotsits - Rob

 

[AndyT]

What's the best hand plane for a beginner who doesn't want to spend a fortune?

D'you know, I'd be tempted to say "old wooden jack"? Certainly cheap enough, and no frog or adjustments to stress over. Oh, except folks often seem to worry about setting wedged planes correctly. But there is advice knocking about on how to do that nowadays (Philly did a vid, iirc?), so yup. Wooden jack. How's that for a daring suggestion?

Of course the real answer is there isn't any plane suitable if you don't want to spend a fortune. Oh, you may not spend a fortune on the first one, but after that...

Good point. That was a perfectly good choice when I was at school in the 70s - each boy had a basic set of tools which included a wooden jack which was used to establish a face side and edge and bring the supplied wood to size. Steel smoother planes were kept in the cupboard and only handed out when strictly necessary.

 

[studders]

A QS of some denomination from Workshop Heaven...it ain't rocket wotsits - Rob

I'm fairly sorted myself Plane wise, though still tempted from time to time. I was trying to bring the thread back to the OPs question but.... was interested in the answer myself as I don't think there really is one single answer?

Re QS Planes, I only have the block and going by that I wish I could justify buying more. I'm seriously tempted by this onethough.

 

[Alf]

Ooo, I'd forgotten the Mujifang ones, Studders. They're a bit of a bargain really, for a new plane.

Oh, and honestly HNT Gordon's advice for setting up a woodie using a "blade setting block" (what we lesser mortals might refer to as "a flat piece of wood" ) is as good as any for removing the fuss and element of mystique. Try it, you might like it.

 

[studders]

Ta for the link. That's 'sort of' what I've been doing, albeit I use the bench and not a hard block, which may be where my problem lies. Will try again with some very hard Beech that I've got.
The Mujithings are superb value for money, esp the half price ones. A blade alone would cost as much.

 

[Jacob]

Good idea the wooden plane.
Except that they are so much harder to set up than a steel one. And harder to adjust in use. And harder to keep in trim unless you use them very regularly in a dry and even temperatured workshop. And harder to sharpen (thick blades and fiddly setting up).
These being the basic reasons why they have been dumped by the ton, in favour of steel.
They are picturesque and cheap however. Nobody wants them so you can get a good one for £1 or so on ebay.

Record 5 1/2 best of all.

 

[woodbloke]

Good idea the wooden plane.
Except that they are so much harder to set up than a steel one. And harder to adjust in use. And harder to keep in trim unless you use them very regularly in a dry and even temperatured workshop. And harder to sharpen (thick blades and fiddly setting up).
These being the basic reasons why they have been dumped by the ton, in favour of steel.
They are picturesque and cheap however. Nobody wants them so you can get a good one for £1 or so on ebay.

Record 5 1/2 best of all.

Only in the West...try that argument with our Japanese brethren and you'll have a very different response. As an entry level plane though, which was the whole point of the OP's question, I agree...woodies aren't the easiest things to use or set up, until you know how but a decent wooden jack plane, with a cambered blade is a 'must have'. Because it's designed to take off thickish shavings and generally has a fairly wide mouth, it's quite easy to set up, but it's probably not the plane you'd go for first. My money is still on a QS No 4 or 5 from WH - Rob

 

[Alf]

What's up, Jacob? Not enough brass knobs and shiny bits for you?

I'm not a member of the Campaign for Wooden Planes (Is there one? Why not?) but apparently I'm in a mood to play Devil's Advocate...

- Except that they are so much harder to set up than a steel one.

Um, well yes and no. There's a learning curve with both, and a lot more that can be wrong and effect the plane's use with a metal plane. Dubious frog bedding, plain (or plane) wrong frog setting, and let's not even go into the threads there have been with folks having trouble retracting the iron enough because the adjuster slot in the cap iron is wrong for that plane.

- And harder to adjust in use.

Well, yes; when you're learning. But then actually, how often does one do that? Really? Once you're set for the cut you want.

-And harder to keep in trim unless you use them very regularly in a dry and even temperatured workshop.

I absolutely hate this argument. No, really, I do. That'd be a workshop in which I wouldn't want to make furniture - or at least, not keep the stuff I'm working on in. So what do you do as an amateur with irregular w'shop time? Me, I'd take the work in the house between w'shop sessions. Not impossible to do that with the tools either, as necessary. And it's made of wood - which is a material a woodworker should have a slightly better grasp of fettling than, say, cast iron.

As to Rob, the thickish shavings argument - a radical notion, but where does it say that the beginner's plane has to take thin shavings? Maybe that's one of the mistakes we all make? Is the whispy shaving the place to start? Is the first joint you make best served by the dovetail? I dunno, I'm just throwing this stuff out there. If whispy shavings are the goal, then I'd go bevel up, and the cheapest way to do that is a low angle block plane.

Seriously, I don't know why I'm arguing this one, except because of my general contrariness and feeling that we throw out so many obstacles in the neophyte's way with cataloguing all the things that can go wrong, maybe occasionally we need to advocate a little more "Jump in and give it a try". For a £1 a pop (apparently).

 

[condeesteso]

It may be that Andy T and me went to the same school. I grew up on woodie Jacks in particular.
Studders - it's been said already but mid 20th C English is my idea of THE BEST for value and performance. (And R comes before S remember.)
Anyway, have a woodie Jack on the way... let's see if it's only half as good as I remember. If it turns out really good I will share, if not I'll go hide and think again.

 

[Harbo]

I think you should all go back to the OP last paragraph and the first reply from RogerP is the correct one!

 

[condeesteso]

Bang on Rod, I do like threads to stay on-thread. But surely mine (last one above) was on? Basically, to be blunt, Record: size to suit, ebay, max £30. And you get told 'Oh no, far too hard to get back, i.e. tune. Nonsense I feel. I have had new planes out of boxes far worse.

(edit) and further proof maybe. Just got a U.S.Stanley 4 1/2 for under £20 incl shipping. (Sorry if I outbid someone here). It looks very promising, knob & tote look very original, loads of blade left, generally very clean. we will see, but I am optimistic. Where else can one find a really good Bailey plane for such a modest amount. It will need a tune for sure, but I expect max 1 hr. But that was an aberration honest... woodies is goodies.

 

[woodbloke]

As to Rob, the thickish shavings argument - a radical notion, but where does it say that the beginner's plane has to take thin shavings? Maybe that's one of the mistakes we all make? Is the whispy shaving the place to start? Is the first joint you make best served by the dovetail? I dunno, I'm just throwing this stuff out there. If whispy shavings are the goal, then I'd go bevel up, and the cheapest way to do that is a low angle block plane.

Ooo-er Al, steady on...it'll No4's, 25 paces apart at dawn next :lol: I agree, the standard woodie is one of those planes that I reckon we all need (at least I do) and I only mention it as being a desirable plane, but not the first one...even the first one shouldn't be aiming to take those whispy, gossamer thin shavings, but a No5 (say) correctly set up to take those 'run of the mill' sort of shavings that a metal jack will do is the sort of thing I was thinking of...either a QS from WH or if the spondulicks don't go that far, then a well sorted out Record..£25ish? - Rob

 

[DTR]

Ta for the link. That's 'sort of' what I've been doing, albeit I use the bench and not a hard block

I've been setting my skew rebate and plough the same way. It's nice to know my incompetent fumblings are actually a recommended technique :mrgreen:. Thanks for the link Alf

 

[Alf]

I think you should all go back to the OP last paragraph and the first reply from RogerP is the correct one!

Awww, where's the fun in that? But if it's necessary to pick an answer within the first page, I'd go with dh7892's suggestion, akshully - find a hand plane-using forum member in your locale who'd be willing to give you half an hour or so of their time and planes. A considerable saving of time spent on the learning curve right there.

Ooo-er Al, steady on...it'll No4's, 25 paces apart at dawn next :lol:

#4s?! I pack fully loaded combination planes and am not afraid to use 'em. (If the thread police weren't patrolling, I'd ask for clarification on metal jack plane shavings vs. wooden jack ones, but I fear their on-topic truncheons and will have to remain in ignorance. I fear we may have to agree to differ. Hey, we've done it before. :lol: )

 

[Jacob]

....... maybe occasionally we need to advocate a little more "Jump in and give it a try". For a £1 a pop (apparently).

Yes I agree with that. Have a go by all means. Wouldn't want to discourage anybody!
BTW I've bought several cheapos on ebay, down to 99p. £3 more typical I suppose.
The woody which really is worth having is the skew rebate, of which there are 100s on ebay. £3 ish plus or minus. They are all "skew" as far as I can see. I don't think I've seen a straight one. Do they exist? If so, why?

 

[AndyT]

....... maybe occasionally we need to advocate a little more "Jump in and give it a try". For a £1 a pop (apparently).

Yes I agree with that. Have a go by all means. Wouldn't want to discourage anybody!
BTW I've bought several cheapos on ebay, down to 99p. £3 more typical I suppose.
The woody which really is worth having is the skew rebate, of which there are 100s on ebay. £3 ish plus or minus. They are all "skew" as far as I can see. I don't think I've seen a straight one. Do they exist? If so, why?

+1

A long time ago, being unable to afford a metal shoulder plane, I bought my first wooden rebate plane. I now seem to have about eight, six of which are skew. One of the straight ones is French; the other is only 3/8" wide. But both straight and skew were offered; the old Melhuish catalogue shows them in sizes from 1/4" at 2s 4d to 1 3/4" at 3s - but skew blades were consistently 2d extra.
From our random sample it seems that for once our forbears had the sense to pay the extra for the superior item!

 

[Corneel]

I have something like 5 wooden rebate planes. All are straight. All are Dutch. So maybe it's a regional thing?
I understand from the molding plane professors in the States that straight ones are really easier to use. But I have no experience with the skewed ones, so I can't compare.

Personally I would vote for a metal plane as a first plane. I am in serious love with the woodies now, but still find them finicky to use.

 

[jimi43]

Are woodies or steel planes best for a beginner?

There's only one way to find out..........................................


INFILL!!!

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Jim