English vintage saw split nuts

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RogerP

Established Member
Joined
7 Jan 2011
Messages
3,785
Reaction score
9
Location
Gloucester
Anyone know what threads these most often had? I've examined several and tried matching to thread charts and digging in my tap collection but haven't really come to a conclusion. I've also done a web trawl but again no firm answer. I suppose they could be unique on some of the oldest ones but the later saws were mass produced so must have used some standard.

Roger
 
I doubt if they were standardised at all. Back when they were freely available, you'd buy the two parts as a pair, so all that mattered was that the nut fitted the screw it came with. There would have been no need to make a nut fit a separately sourced screw.

In Simon Barley's magnum opus on saws, there is a whole chapter on handle fasteners. He says that the screw threads were rudimentary and would have been made with a tap and a screw plate.

I've got a couple of screw plates and could not match their threads to any standard sizes - but they would also have originally been sold with their own matching taps.

Looking at the one separated saw screw in my possession, it measures 1/8" in diameter and has about 28 TPI - which does not match any standard as far as I can see.

In this recent thread, I wrote that I bought a small Whitworth tap, to make some crude replacement nuts, but having looked in my box of taps I think I must have remembered that wrong. When you get down to 1/8" diameter, most standard forms are quite fine threads, but as far as I can see from my own very small sample, coarse threads were used on saw screws. I think the tap that I bought and used must have been one marked 6 UNC 32 which has a relatively coarse 32 tpi - I would have just picked it out as being the closest available.
 
Thanks Andy. That's the same conclusion I came to.

So, not wanting to get bogged down in making a non-standard course tap and die, I compromised and went modern with M4.

They'll do the job.
split%20screw3_zpsazestxh7.jpg
 
I reckon they will! You might get some customers too... did you make the whole thing or is the screw part a standard brass screw with the head filed/turned down?
 
I've checked a fair number of the split-nut screws. They seem to be 5/32" x 24 tpi. Similar to 5/32" Whitworth, but with the coarser thread of a 3/16". But they seem to be fairly standard; so I guess there might have been one or two Sheffield firms specialising in sawscrews and nuts, and supplying the saw manufacturers themselves.

But no: I can't find a tap or die for that thread.

spanner48
 
Yep, what Any sez matches my experience. None of the saw bolts I've had to deal with matched any Whitworth or Standard American threads in equivalent sizes by a long shot. My impression is that the older the saw, the coarser the threads, too, but that could be just because I've had a skewed sample.

I've made numerous replacements over the last 10 years for various saws both for myself & others. It's easy enough to match the visible parts, be they the older type with split nuts & flush-set heads or the domed heads & sleeve nuts, but not the threads, of course, so it's always a matter of making a matched pair (bolt plus nut) if a bolt is stripped or nut missing. I just use a metric thread, too, either M3 or M4 depending on the size of the originals - some of those cast bolts on pre-20th C saws are really skinny, barely 3mm. These have 4mm shanks. I leave a collar under the head & file it square so it will be a tight fit in teh original hole - matching the ribs on cast bolts is too much bother for too little return:
Saw bolts.jpg

Easy to spot the odd man out in this line-up:

bolts.jpg

But once on the saw (& the other heads polished up, it's not so easy:

handle etch side.jpg

My worry is that someone in the future may take the handle off a saw like this without noticing that one bolt is different & try to force the wrong nut on the wrong bolt when reassembling. They may figure it out before doing permanent damage, or they mat not....
:(
Cheers,
Ian
 
Back
Top