ELU Bandsaw

[gserghiou]

Hi Folks again,

my new question for you:

my father-in-law heard of a bandsaw being sold and asked if i was interested.
cut a long story short, he bought it for me. he says its not a big one...he told me how high it was but i forgot !!! the previous owner was a carpenter and he performed all his bandsawing jobs with it, so it should be adequate for me..hes now in need of a larger one and since hes getting a bigger one he let me have this for 80 pounds

the name of the bandsaw is ELU and i think the model number is ebs3401 AI (or A1 ) my wife cant really make out what is meant to say.made in Italy

tried some searches ont he net but nto really found anything out abut them..just s website sellign spare parts for ebs3401 model so im in luck with that !!!

i guess this is not the cheap nasty tools i usually use !!! :lol: Any info on this please, and also i want to buy two new blades for it . what blades would you reccomend for ripping wood (will be planed after) and also a blade that will cut fine !!

Thanks,

George

 

[matt]

Elu is a good make - since taken over by DeWalt.

But, like any make, it probably has it good tools and not so good tools. On the whole though, Elu had a very good reputation (so much so that many people try to buy secondhand Elu tools over new alternatives).

I think you may well be on to a winner.

 

[Nick Laguna UK]

Hello George

Elu was originally a Swiss company and noted for their very high quality products. Elu routers were a class apart.

Elu was bought by Black and Decker many moons ago - most Elu derivative machines are now branded Dewalt.

The bandsaw you have is a decent enough machine. (I used to sell them )

Google the model number ebs3401 for more info. I think the Dewalt is now called DW738?? 6" Cut - only possible drawback is ali table - not cast - but still a good portable machine.

Ref blades - get the blade length and max/min width allowed, then I'd suggest speaking to a good blade supplier and explaining what you are after. Ripping would be less teeth per inch, fine cut would be higher - all depending upon what woods you are cutting and how deep etc.. etc..

Hope this helps
Best regards
Nick

 

[Steve Maskery]

Yes, it's not a bad little machine, I used to have one.

Mine didn't have an adjustable fence, so dealing with drift was a challenge, but the machine is still going strong at my brother's house, 20-odd years after I bought it.

Cheers
Steve

 

[gserghiou]

Ok...

Thanks for the replies...

i still cannot find any info on net about them...but thats ok...

at least i found the site with the spare parts should somehing go wrong....

ill get my father-in-law to check for blades and get me a couple (ripping and fine cut) blades.

Thanks all,

George

 

[Geoff S]

There's one currently being advertised on Ebay that helps at all

 

[gserghiou]

hi geoff,

jsut did a search for it and saw it ...at least now i know what it looks like

Thanks,

George

 

[gserghiou]

Hi All Again,

Happy New Year to everyone (although a bit late )
Long time to visit this forum but i need your help once more !!!

I now have the bandsaw in my possession and to cut a long story short i need to change the blade on it !!!

i read some general instructions on the internet how to do this (tension, tracking, guides , pressure roller bearing and then drift )

since i have not done this before and as i have no one here with me to tell me what i'm doing is ok id like to as you all.

In order to change the blade and put it on the wheels i need to press down the top adjustment knob and put the band over the top wheel. i then adjust the tracking so when i spin the wheel the blade does not fall off and stays relatively in the center of the wheel.

My questions are:

the knob on the top (for the tension). How does this excactly work ? I guess you can push it down so that the wheel moves down so you can pu the blade on. Then you can alter the tension of the blade by turning the knob left or right. But this is where i have a slight problem. When i turn the knob it feels as if it gets stuck and then a sudden Klank is head and i get the feeling that i might break it. is this how its supposed to be ???
i can get a photo of the reding on the tension knob if its easier to show how much more adjustment i need to give it (according to blade width) !!! It feels as if the knob does not have enough adjustment (when turned left or right) to adjust the blade (OR SHOULD I PUSH IT DOWN WHILE TURNING IT ??? )

this is one part of my puzzle.

so far i put the blade on, and turned the knob clockwise a couple turns... i left it there. the blade 'feels' 'tensed' enough but i might be wrong !!!

i adjusted the tracking knob and now when i turn the wheels by hand, the blade is running almost in the center and occasionally slightly off center.
at all times the blade stays on (rouglhy middle) of the top wheel. is this satisfactory for now, or should the blade be 100% in the center (or near center) and not have the slightest move at all when spinning the wheel ???


setting guides area !!!???

considering i get the tension and tracking right, my guides (guide blocks) and the pressure roller bearing for the load when cutting wood are out of alignment . I guess i should expect that and that i need to adjust both the guides and the pressure roller bearing (ill do this according to the manual (0.5 mm for the load bearing and 0.1 mm for the guide blocks using paper car and paper note )


So please, if you remember how to adjust this bandsaw or similar please give me a word of advice , hints and tips !!!!


I hope i explained my problem

Thank you all,

George
(Cyprus)

 

[hillhopper]

Hi There. Where can i find Elu Bandsaw parts?.model number 3501/3.i am looking for a trip switch and a users manual for the model stated.many thanks.

Hi All Again,

Happy New Year to everyone (although a bit late )
Long time to visit this forum but i need your help once more !!!

I now have the bandsaw in my possession and to cut a long story short i need to change the blade on it !!!

i read some general instructions on the internet how to do this (tension, tracking, guides , pressure roller bearing and then drift )

since i have not done this before and as i have no one here with me to tell me what i'm doing is ok id like to as you all.

In order to change the blade and put it on the wheels i need to press down the top adjustment knob and put the band over the top wheel. i then adjust the tracking so when i spin the wheel the blade does not fall off and stays relatively in the center of the wheel.

My questions are:

the knob on the top (for the tension). How does this excactly work ? I guess you can push it down so that the wheel moves down so you can pu the blade on. Then you can alter the tension of the blade by turning the knob left or right. But this is where i have a slight problem. When i turn the knob it feels as if it gets stuck and then a sudden Klank is head and i get the feeling that i might break it. is this how its supposed to be ???
i can get a photo of the reding on the tension knob if its easier to show how much more adjustment i need to give it (according to blade width) !!! It feels as if the knob does not have enough adjustment (when turned left or right) to adjust the blade (OR SHOULD I PUSH IT DOWN WHILE TURNING IT ??? )

this is one part of my puzzle.

so far i put the blade on, and turned the knob clockwise a couple turns... i left it there. the blade 'feels' 'tensed' enough but i might be wrong !!!

i adjusted the tracking knob and now when i turn the wheels by hand, the blade is running almost in the center and occasionally slightly off center.
at all times the blade stays on (rouglhy middle) of the top wheel. is this satisfactory for now, or should the blade be 100% in the center (or near center) and not have the slightest move at all when spinning the wheel ???


setting guides area !!!???

considering i get the tension and tracking right, my guides (guide blocks) and the pressure roller bearing for the load when cutting wood are out of alignment . I guess i should expect that and that i need to adjust both the guides and the pressure roller bearing (ill do this according to the manual (0.5 mm for the load bearing and 0.1 mm for the guide blocks using paper car and paper note )


So please, if you remember how to adjust this bandsaw or similar please give me a word of advice , hints and tips !!!!


I hope i explained my problem

Thank you all,

George
(Cyprus)

 

[Robbo3]

Wow! this is an ancient thread revival.
The 3501 is 2 speed whilst the3401 is single speed.
Already mentioned, the aluminium table was prone to warping. I had mine replaced under warranty.
The other weak point is the tensioning rod where the threads are prone to stretch. I replaced mine with an M6 x150mm carriage bolt. I think (it was 20 years ago) that I had to file the head slightly to get it to fit.