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ELU 1901 Planer - adjusting input/output tables

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OldWood

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I've just bought an ELU 1901 planer/thicknesser. Unfortunately the seller decided to remove the tables for carriage - and then decided to deliver himself and put them back on ! They are now some 1mm out of parallel across the machine. I think I can work out how to correct this but has anyone done it before ?

The rest of it is fine.

Rob
 

dickm

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I bought a very battered one of these last year, without realising <how> battered! Adjusting for parallel (presumably you mean <across> the tables, not along?) was a bit of a pain, because one of the lugs under the infeed table was broken, and the crucial thing for parallellism (spelling??) seemed to be the fit between the adjusting cam and the lugs. Otherwise, it's probably a matter of thin shims on the sliding surfaces?
(mine was so iffy, I sold it in the end - hope your's is better!)
 

RogerS

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Rob

You might like to take a look at this thread, which although doesn't specifically relate to your model should give you some clues as to how to go about it.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3531&highlight=ct150

Without knowing your model (and quite happy to be shot down in flames) there are several things to bear in mind.

1) you have to align three components...infeed, outfeed tables AND the cutter head. The tables need to be co-planar to each other and also to the cutter blades. They need to do this at any setting, aka depth of cut, on the infeed table.

You need a starting point to work from. The gamble that you have to take IMHO is whether the cutter blades are setup correctly as this gives you your starting point to work to. If they aren't setup corrrectly then I have to bow out and let you wait for someone with more indepth knowledge to come along.

Rather than repeat what's been said in other threads I'll only comment on a few things that i found when I set-up my Ct150.

1) the leading edge (ie closest to the cutter block) of the outfeed table was not parallel with the cutter block (when viewed from the top)..poor casting...but it doesn't matter. What matters is the surface of the outfeed table being coplanar to the cutters. The fact that there is a difference in the gap between the leading edge and the blades is neither here nor there IMHO.

2) I didn't have a suitable straight edge and although could have ordered one, that would have taken time. I went down to my local builders merchants (with some feeler gauges....you'll need these anyway for later) and I looked at the Stabilo 1metre spirit levels. Surprisingly they were all spot on (give or take a few thou across the 1m length :) )

3) When adjusting the height of the outfeed table I tried various techniques. In the end what worked for me was placing my smallish engineers square upright on the outfeed table and just kissing the blades...then adjusting for the same sound as the blades just 'kissed' gently the underside of the square. This should get your leading edge at the right height for the cutter

4) Then adjust the trailing edge of the outfeed to keep it parallel (co-planar) to the cutter blades. I used the feeler gauges extensively when
doing this

Looking at Sawdust producers diagram I think it's the bits marked 70/ 83/88 do this for you on your machine.

5) then adjust the infeed table ..my planer is different to yours..but guess iit's parts 66/69/70/72. My infeed and outfeed tables are keyed and slide up and down a complimentary groove in the supporting frame underneath. i can't see that on yours.

Hope that helps...and good luck

[just noticed that I'm inconsistent when referring to the cutter head/block/blades. For the purposes of the approach suggested, they are synonymous]

Roger
 
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