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ELU 1251 RAS worktable

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Polly1313

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Hi all. Newbie here.

I just bought an old ELU 1251 RAS, but it has no work table, and I'm going to make one.

I'm sure there must be somebody on here who has one; can anyone give me the length/breadth dimensions for the various sections, please?
 

Distinterior

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Sorry Polly, I've only just seen your question on the other thread.

I made a new MDF table top and rear sections for my Elu RAS when I first acquired the saw. I used the old crappy sections as templates for the new ones. Admittedly, I did make the table wider than the original.....
I can measure them for you if that helps...?
 

Distinterior

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Here are a couple of pictures of mine with the MDF top on it and the " Fences" as well.
I put some extra supports on mine along the front and where the main table joins the Fence.
The front supports consist of a bit of Oak and a length of Angle Iron....
All the MDF is 18mm thickness.

The main table top is 450mm deep x 1000mm wide.
The Fence is 50mm high x 1000mm wide.
The rear table is 150mm deep x 1000mm wide.
The rear Fence/Packer is also 50mm high x 1000mm wide.

20200628_115710.jpg


20200628_115726.jpg


20200628_115734.jpg
 

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Polly1313

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The rear table depth of 150mm... is that the distance between the two fences, or does it include the thickness of the fences?
 

toolsntat

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There is a manual on here or web and it shows the original set up.
It has different positions for when doing angled work.
Cheers Andy
 

Polly1313

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Yep, cheers Andy. I've already downloaded that, and you're right - it does show the original setup/configuration. However, unless I missed something, I don't think it actually states the dimensions?
 

toolsntat

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Yes fig8 page 8.
As you say scant on sizes :evil:
Some basic calcs will give a rough depth though....
Cheers Andy
 

ArferMo

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I've been doing this myself today; making a Mr Sawdust version. The most important and useful information I found on the web is about setting the fence position. Everything follows from that.
Turn the saw so the blade is in the in-rip position, and adjust the yoke on the arm ,so the in-rip scale reads zero, then lock the yoke on the arm. The back face of the blade is then exactly where the front face of the fence should be. Everything else flows from that location of the fence front edge.

I chose a front table 1010x470, a fence of 20mm and two rear tables of 1010x50 and 1010x100mm. (1010mm wide because my metal bars were 1m each. and it gives me a little to clean up edges without fouling the inserts, and 470mm deep because that brings the table a few centimetres in front of the the side support brackets. Maximum cross-cut is 380mm so there is plenty of room, especially so because the fence would also be rearward 50mm. Maximum out-rip would be slightly forward of the table edge but that isn't a bad thing.

Finally an observation about MDF tops. MDF dust is a carcinogen. To use it on a saw top when you are young to middle-age is asking for trouble as every time you make a cut MDF dust will circulate. Far better to choose good quality birch ply which will remain dimensionally stable, unlike MDF
 

Polly1313

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Cheers for that additional useful info, AfterMo.

I was thinking of making mine from a OSB with a layer of ply on top.
 

powertools

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If your saw needs a new table you have the chance to make it any size you want that will suit your needs, the space you have and the use you want to put it to.
 

Polly1313

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By the way, are the steel inserts really necessary? Would it still be OK without them?
 

Polly1313

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powertools":3hxxzwge said:
If your saw needs a new table you have the chance to make it any size you want that will suit your needs, the space you have and the use you want to put it to.
Sure. It was largely the dimensions of the sections behind the fence that I needed to know, so nothing would interfere with the blade when parked.
 

powertools

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The section behind the fence is easy enough to measure yourself you just need to decide how high your fence will be and work from there.
Do you have plenty of space and are you intending to do rip cuts on it, these things are important to know before you make a new table. There are no hard and fast rules you make it to suit your needs
 

Polly1313

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powertools":padbmmsk said:
The section behind the fence is easy enough to measure yourself you just need to decide how high your fence will be and work from there.
Do you have plenty of space and are you intending to do rip cuts on it, these things are important to know before you make a new table. There are no hard and fast rules you make it to suit your needs
I already have a table saw, so I'll probably be using the 1251 mostly for cross cuts. I've been using a chop saw, but it doesn't provide a reliable enough 90 degree cut, so I figured the ELU, with it's more sturdy and rigid design, would serve me better.

I've actually just realised that the clamping assembly which holds the work table pieces together from behind is missing, and I can't find all the components on the various spare part websites I've looked at.

Is there an alternative hack/fix?
 

ArferMo

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Polly1313":35baattv said:
....
I've actually just realised that the clamping assembly which holds the work table pieces together from behind is missing, and I can't find all the components on the various spare part websites I've looked at.

Is there an alternative hack/fix?
I'm in the same boat. Isn't it amazing that, one assumes, careful, sensible craftsmen and women manage to spoil the products they pass on to others by losing or forgetting very important parts.

I have ordered something like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rockler-...027156&hash=item3646bb2cab:g:xvAAAOSwXSVevc2w and plan to remove the bent rod and then pop-rivet the long leg under the angle bracket that carries the table. The screw adjuster will then be above the frame level and able to tighten onto the back table to compress it to the fence. Hope this helps.
 

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