elektra 260 thicknessing table levelling

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

madge

Established Member
Joined
7 Feb 2012
Messages
125
Reaction score
0
Location
london
Hi all, I'm tearing my hair out trying to get an even thickness using the thicknesser on the 260. across a 9 inch width it's out by 1mm. I've done a search but not found much about getting the thicknessing table level so thought I'd see if anyone else has had the same trouble? One of the threads I found had a suggestion that the chain that connects the cogs that in turn connect to the raising/lowering screws has to be removed and the drive screw or other crews rotated until the table is parallel to the cutting block and then the chain put back on. I can see that this could work but has anyone tried it? the alternative I suppose is to put a piece of mdf the same width as the table through the thicknesser and then flip it over and lie on the thicknessing table permanently, hoping it cancles out the problem. I'd rather sort it out properly though. Anyone got any advice?

cheers
Ian

P.S I've checked that the cutter block is parallel to the outfeed table and that the knives are parallel to and a shade above the outfeed table so I don't think it's a knife setting issue.
 
Had the same problem on a cheapo thicknesser planer, gave up, first thing i'd do is check the table is true and not warped, i.e. get a big straight edge.

After that it's time to play with the cogs, but the mdf route might be easier, if not especially elegant

madge":58d6ul8a said:
Hi all, I'm tearing my hair out trying to get an even thickness using the thicknesser on the 260. across a 9 inch width it's out by 1mm. I've done a search but not found much about getting the thicknessing table level so thought I'd see if anyone else has had the same trouble? One of the threads I found had a suggestion that the chain that connects the cogs that in turn connect to the raising/lowering screws has to be removed and the drive screw or other crews rotated until the table is parallel to the cutting block and then the chain put back on. I can see that this could work but has anyone tried it? the alternative I suppose is to put a piece of mdf the same width as the table through the thicknesser and then flip it over and lie on the thicknessing table permanently, hoping it cancles out the problem. I'd rather sort it out properly though. Anyone got any advice?

cheers
Ian

P.S I've checked that the cutter block is parallel to the outfeed table and that the knives are parallel to and a shade above the outfeed table so I don't think it's a knife setting issue.
 
I have managed to use the technique of removing the chain off the cogs and turning the individual screws. Oil each thread before you start to make it easier to turn them. You should only need to make minor adjustment to raise/lower the bed to get it level. I turned my machine upside down and used a pair of digital calipers to check the bed height referencing against the metal bars that hold the sides of the unit together. You need to check each corner as you make adjustments to the individual screws to get it level - altering one screw's depth also changes the height slightly at the other corners. Shouldn't take you too long - about 20 minutes.
 
thanks for the advice, checked the table is all flat and whilst it's not perfectly flat, it's not warped enough to account for how much of a wedge it's producing.

Good to hear someone else has had success turning the screws, think it might be a good idea as you suggest to turn it upside down to make access and measuring easier, but how did you get the chain off? there doesn't seem to be much slack in it on my machine.
 
On my machine there is a 5th cog that tensions the chain - just loosen this one. On mine one full turn of the screw moves the bed by 2mm, so for your 1mm adjustment I would try 1/4 or even smaller adjustments.
 
madge":2qjayn9a said:
thanks, is that the cog that's just above the motor?

usually they are mounted on a slot so you can move them to adjust tension, also it`ll be the one not in the corners.
 
thanks a lot for all the help, I'll have a fiddle around with it tomorrow and report back!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top