Electric Drive Gates opener

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MARK.B.

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At the point now that electric gates sound like a good thing to have and as my driveway is being re-done it seems a bit daft not to take advantage of this in respect of putting in the power cable now, even if its a while before the gates ( double swing gates ) get made . So my questions to you guys are, can you recommend a supplier - a good make for DIY installation - what size armoured cable should i be putting in over a 40 metre length. Please do add any pro's n con's along with any tips.
Any and all advice appreciated.:)
 
I would hang fire on getting any cable until you know the make and supplier as some of these systems also run control lines and CCTV / Intercom so you know who is at the gates before you open them.
 
Thank's Roy , really just looking for bog standard openers without any frills, but saying that a few extra frills won't hurt unless the price is to high :unsure::)
 
CAME seem to be one of the go to makes. Couldn't comment on the diy installation. Had a sliding gate installed by a professional although I think I could have done much of it myself in retrospect.
 
Thank you Nick, i will check them out (y)sliding gate is not an option for me but would have been my choice if possible. The fitting does not worry me overmuch after all how hard can it be :whistle::whistle::whistle:;)
 
Thank you Nick, i will check them out (y)sliding gate is not an option for me but would have been my choice if possible. The fitting does not worry me overmuch after all how hard can it be :whistle::whistle::whistle:;)

The gate was already here when we moved in, just had to automate it. I think I'm right in saying they also make swing gate mechanisms
 
I put in Quiko Eon swing gate openers last summer - reasonably priced, seem very well made, installation was simple and control panel programming was straightforward.
 
My personal experience is BFT is one to avoid. I have an underground swing system, which I wish I didn’t!
 
As a 20 year owner of electric gates and having installed 2 sets myself, this is a how long's a piece of string question. How big are the gates? How often will they open? What are they made of? How many people need to use the gates? How many accessories do you want? Etc. Etc. Etc.

I have installed 240v and 12v and neither are difficult for a competent diyer. I would start with somewhere like easygates.co.uk and go from there.

My current set are Mhouse and they have lasted the last 5 years of being opened and closed 5 or 6 times a day without issue.
 
I had a CAME system in a previous house worked pretty well. I would advise against an underground actuating system particularly if there is any chance of it being water logged / flooded. I have seen systems that work halfway up the gate.
Also I agree with @Sandyn where he suggests
Why not just lay conduit and a rope through, so you can chose what you need later?
Have fun!
Martin
 
Thank you for the relies and suggestions,I will check them out (y) will avoid underground actuators
Sandyn just putting in buried armoured cable so no conduit:).
 
The CAME system I mentioned before had an inductive loop to hold the gates open if there was a car in the way plus a light beam across the opening to hold them open if there was something across the opening that was non-metallic. Hence there were control cables from one side to the other and back to the control box which included the radio receiver to open the gates as you approached. Bear in mind that you may need some conduit for all of the control wiring and not just a power feed to the system.
Martin
 
The CAME system I mentioned before had an inductive loop to hold the gates open if there was a car in the way plus a light beam across the opening to hold them open if there was something across the opening that was non-metallic. Hence there were control cables from one side to the other and back to the control box which included the radio receiver to open the gates as you approached. Bear in mind that you may need some conduit for all of the control wiring and not just a power feed to the system.
Martin

Exactly. None of them use a lot of power, but they all need a mains cable to one of the posts where you are going to put the main control box (the electronics) and then several cables of varying thickness going from one fence post to the other. They all have actuator arms on each gate that need power (If 240v then armoured) and they all have a light beam that again needs power on each gate. You can then add a second light beam inside the gate if you need it. The ones with a self-stopping mechanism are much easier (you don't need a second set of posts as stops for the gates when they are open.

Finally, you need a couple of gate stops in the centre of where the gate opens for the gate to push against when closed. Something like this:

https://www.slamproof.co.uk/Large-Centre-Gate-Stop
 
I think that one of the best decisions I made when installing my gate openers was to situate the control electronics out of the elements in the garage - yes it means some longer cable runs but cable is cheap. When researching prior to purchase, I saw a number of comments about control boards failing after a few years due to the enclosures no longer being completely weathertight.

A couple also mentioned that the electronics seemed to act as a magnet for ants and they, somehow, managed to get inside the enclosures.
 
Quiko uk - great service, and when one of the gate rams had a problem, REALLY quick to diagnose the problem over the phone, and send a replacement capacitor.

Don't forget to run conduit across the drive, but also from the gate posts back to where the gate stop posts will be - that's where you will likely install the internal photocells. I used Cat5 cable - not sure I'd use it again as it's just too brittle when an amateur like me has to fold/hide it in control boxes. You should allow for gate stops at open and closed positions - but I'm sure you've thought of that.

Just yesterday I installed a Ultracom 2 wireless entry intercom. Really simple install.
 
Quiko uk - great service, and when one of the gate rams had a problem, REALLY quick to diagnose the problem over the phone, and send a replacement capacitor.

Don't forget to run conduit across the drive, but also from the gate posts back to where the gate stop posts will be - that's where you will likely install the internal photocells. I used Cat5 cable - not sure I'd use it again as it's just too brittle when an amateur like me has to fold/hide it in control boxes. You should allow for gate stops at open and closed positions - but I'm sure you've thought of that.

Just yesterday I installed a Ultracom 2 wireless entry intercom. Really simple install.
You don't need gate stops for the open position with some of the newer rams. Also the internal sensors are optional (never felt the need for them)
 
When I looked in to electric gates there was more to it than I imagined. They were meant to have sensors to stop them closing on anything, sensors to stop them opening on to anything/crushing anybody if they opened back to the wall, some kind of key override so the emergency services could get through if needed etc. A job I was on recently was having them fitted and there seemed to be wire and conduit everywhere.
 

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