electra Beckum hc260 knive help

[reck123]

I was wondering with anyone with the same machine could help me out here. I’ve had this machine for a while now and only really used the thicknesser side of it with good results.

I noticed the knives wearnt really setup for planing and would leave a taper on the wood.
I’ve since watched a few videos on youtube on knife changing and adjustment including Peter from the new brit workshops in depth video.

What I don’t understand is how those little Allen key screws located inside the metal bar which raise the it up and down are supposed to work in unison with the knives when the knife is not attached to the metal block. All that happens is the block moves up and down leaving the knives unchanged. The way of securing the two together is by tightening the bolts in the cutter block so the two are jammed together but then the grub screws can’t be adjusted at all.

I have managed to get a rough setting of the 5mm wood movement trick demonstrated by others by roughly clamping the blade in place and tapping it down with a hammer until I get the 5mm movement. This was a real hassle and took me forever as it was just hit and hope for the best and still it is not set consistently across the length of the blade.

I planed some thin stock flat straight afterwards which yielded a flat result but have yet to try with wider stock or the thicknesser

Can someone enilighten me I have sent photos of both the blade and the metal block
The metal block does actually contain two holes for which I could only presume are there for attached a blade with two mating holes which mine does not have.

 

[Trevanion]

There should be two slots at each end of the knife that register onto a couple of discs on each end of the gib.

I think these went through a few iterations so it may depend on what exact model you have.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I'm not sure that I understand what you are describing. If I remember that machine correctly, it has Lifters. Lifters are screws that sit in the blade slot of the cutter head. The edge of the screw head locates in a slot in the blade and a threaded hole in the bottom of the blade slot. By unscrewing the screw the blade is lifted, screwing it down allows the blade to sit lower.

You tighten the tapered clamping bar just enough to stop the blade from slipping, but not so hard that you cannot adjust it. Then, when you have it right, nip it up tight (which may well kick it off again...)

My little Kity does not have them, so it is even harder to achieve and, as you say, the tap-and-try method is tedious.

 

[colinc]

Hi,

It is an iterative process. The square headed screws lock the blade, but need to be loose to allow the screws below to be adjusted. So you release the blade, wind the Allen screw up or down, lock the blade with the square headed bolts, check the adjustment then repeat as necessary.

I use the steel rule method of checking the adjustment, aiming for it to move about 5mm each pickup of the blade, are you ok with doing that?

Regards,

Colin