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Edge join straight from plunge saw

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I was about to ask for a comparison between plunge saw blades, but my real question is, is it feasible to glue straight from a plunge saw?

I’m working with American cherry, 36mm thick, but the pieces are over 3m long and 220mm wide so I can’t control them over the planer thicknesser.

Out comes the #7 record plane, which is fine, but it’s all the faff having to micro-finesse the edge over the length. I will be doing at least ten of these edges to this level of finish.

My dream is that I replace the stock 48 tooth multi-purpose blade on my bosch GKT with something like a Freud Pro ripping blade. Will it get me closer to glue straight off the saw? Thanks


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Doug71

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Never done it myself but the way to do it is put a straight edge on the boards with your plunge saw, butt the boards together then run the saw (on the rail) down the joint leaving them a perfect match, that's the theory anyway.

There are details about it on Festool owners group if you search, I tried to post a link but couldn't get it to work.
 

Trevanion

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It'll get you closer to a ready to glue edge but I suspect you won't get it right off the saw, You'd need quite a coarse blade to make a dent in cherry that thickness without burning up the material. It would be a pretty good and straight edge but it will still have saw marks which may show in the glue line so it may be worth giving it a couple of shavings along the whole length with No 07.
 

HappyHacker

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I ripped some 1 1/4" oak boards with a Festool 28 tooth blade and the finish was excellent. A touch with 120 grade sandpaper removed any small saw marks.
 
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