Dustbin extender question

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Scott

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I was contemplating trying one of these but I'm damned if I'm going to order a dustbin lid from the UK so I'll make one. Can anyone tell me if the inlet and outlet have to extend into the bin or should they be flush with the underside of the lid? .... or does it not matter?
 
Scott, my understanding is that the ideal is to achieve an airflow that 'spirals' the waste in, so that the heavier particles are centrifugally thrown to the sides and then drop down, leaving as little fine stuff as possible to be pulled through to the next collecter (all other things being equal).

Accordingly, I'd think you'd want the 'inlet' pipe angled in at one side, possibly projecting a few inches to establish the flow. The 'exit' should, I guess, sit in the centre with minimum projection, to avoid sucking up piled up waste.

Aha! - well, even if I'm completely wrong, Rob Lee obviously believes much the same - check out this page - (hope he don't sue me for patent infringement - I was just applying physics, milud....)

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30282&cat=1,42401&ap=1
 
Scott, rather than persevere with a dustbin (the plastic ones deform of u have a blockage) I used an umptynine litre ex fruit juice barrel (£4) which came with an exceedingly well fitting lid... dunno whether u'll be able to get them en France :?:

An aquaintance used a ply top on his dustbin ... with a bead of silicone sealant... u'll need to minimise any potential leaks

the inlet pipe to the barrel goes in straight but (as Shady suggests) I've angled the end of the pipe that leads to the vacuum... works a treat.

FWIW I mix the dust and shavings with my grass mowings which produces a reasonable 'compost'... green init :p :p :D

If it helps I can post u pix
 
I dunno about the dustbin lid replacement, but the Murphy's laws on that site rang pretty true to me... :roll:

Reckon I've proved them all at least once.

Edit - and check out the dictionary - example:

DRILL PRESS - An upright machine useful for suddenly snatching pieces of wood you are drilling an accurate hole in and then smacking you in the hand with them throwing your beer across the room against the project you just finished and is ready for staining.
 
I rescued several 4" diameter steel flanges (?) from a skip 3 years ago and put 2 of these on top of a bin lid and made corresponding holes in the lid so they're just open to the bin - no strange angles or angle pipe bits underneath. This might not be the best solution but it definitely works, and is really good when using the D/E to clean the floor as any old bits of metal (you know, the screw you dropped into the pile of dust and forgot about) fall to the bottom of the bin and don't get sucked loudly and worryingly into the D/E fan. My main problem with this is that the plastic bin is now rather top heavy with the metal flanges in the lid...

Cheers,

Pete
 
I gave up using my bin collector a bit ago. I found that my ADE 2200 would pull all but the bottom 6 inches of shavings out of the bin. :shock: This sort of defeated the object!!

Has anyone else had this? The pipe runs aren't particularly long but then I assume that these are more designed for a home set up where it wouldn't be expected that they were long.

Cheers

Tim
 
That's a good question Tim! I have a DX4000 which, looking at the specs, is even more powerful than your ADE2200
 
Scott":3580zbo6 said:
That's a good question Tim! I have a DX4000 which, looking at the specs, is even more powerful than your ADE2200


ADE2200 = 2200 cubic metres an hour
DX4000 = 381 cubic metres an hour

or

ADE2200 = 611 cubic metres a second
DX4000 = 106 cubic metres a second

The ADE2200 just shades it................. by a mile :)

Hope this helps
 
john, I think you have lost a few decimal places there.

The figures for cubic metres/sec should be 0.611 and 0.106 respectively.

John
 
....and I was one decimal point out with my mental arithmetic! :oops:

Just as well this ain't an arithmetic forum!! :D
 
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