tim
Established Member
I have the dust extractor below:
Model ADE2200 form Axminster.
Broadly I am very happy with it and it is powerful enough for all my needs.
There are two major problems with it (for me)
1. It takes up a huge amount of space and it was always my plan to build an addition outside the workshop to fit it in and then feed the ducting to a permanent set up through the wall.
2. The bag changing and seal is, frankly, a nightmare. I find that I have to use duct tape around the top of the bag to prevent little jets of dust puffing out wherever there is a crease and if I leave the bag to be more than half full, I end up covered in more dust than there is in the bag! Plus even though I have a woodburner that will burn dust and shavings, the bag is not an ideal storage container for this. Having just changed the bag again I was thinking that this really needs to be improved esp if the extractor is going to be outside (in the wind) for the purpose of bag changing.
The bag fills up pretty damn quickly as well and I have found that even with a bin and vortex top in between, it is powerful enough to pull most of the shavings from the planer through into the bag anyway.
With me so far?
So I have thought of some modifications that I would like to do but I don't know from an engineering perspective whether I will also be grossly affecting its efficiency.
So let me try to explain my thoughts - NB my concern is based more on my ability to explain clearly not a reflection on your capabilities to understand.
Some other things to be considered first:
1. I need to reposition the switch because it is of the magnetic interlock type and can't be operated by a slave switch in the workshop. No big deal, i'll just run the flex through the wall (assume in all cases that Part P will be adhered to! :wink: )
2. The trolley that it is on is going to be effectively redundant so that will go.
3. The way the motor and fan are currently positioned makes it impossible to push close to the wall to save space and also is too low down given that the ducting will run overhead.
4. I want to get rid of the lower bag altogether. The struts that hold the cyclone element get in the way and I've already described the other issues with seals etc.
The mods:
1 Put in a horizontal platform (25mm MDF) to sit the cyclone attachment. This will have a large hole cut in it to allow dust and debris to drop through.
2. Replace the lower bag with a more robust container eg a bin (although ideally clear or with a window to see levels). Create a seal between top of bin and platform and use a support underneath the bin and turn-buttons around the rim. I imagine the seal will need some experimentation but what I ideally want is to be able to use standard bins so that I can put a lid on the full one and replace it simply with a spare.
3. Remove the motor and fan, invert them and position high up, although using the same length of 6" hose to keep that connection as similar to the original as possible. This will put the inlet hole the right side of the extractor cabinet and higher up ie where the ducting will run through the wall.
I have drawn it in Sketchup below - apologies I'm a beginner at this and cylinders and tubes are a bit beyond me at the mo esp when curved hence the comedy hose piece.
You are seeing it as though you were looking through the door of the extractor cabinet and the workshop wall is behind the extractor.
I think we can take it as read that any warranty claim is probably going out of the window! :lol:
Let me know if you think this could have probs (or improvements are always very welcome)
Cheers
Tim
Model ADE2200 form Axminster.
Broadly I am very happy with it and it is powerful enough for all my needs.
There are two major problems with it (for me)
1. It takes up a huge amount of space and it was always my plan to build an addition outside the workshop to fit it in and then feed the ducting to a permanent set up through the wall.
2. The bag changing and seal is, frankly, a nightmare. I find that I have to use duct tape around the top of the bag to prevent little jets of dust puffing out wherever there is a crease and if I leave the bag to be more than half full, I end up covered in more dust than there is in the bag! Plus even though I have a woodburner that will burn dust and shavings, the bag is not an ideal storage container for this. Having just changed the bag again I was thinking that this really needs to be improved esp if the extractor is going to be outside (in the wind) for the purpose of bag changing.
The bag fills up pretty damn quickly as well and I have found that even with a bin and vortex top in between, it is powerful enough to pull most of the shavings from the planer through into the bag anyway.
With me so far?
So I have thought of some modifications that I would like to do but I don't know from an engineering perspective whether I will also be grossly affecting its efficiency.
So let me try to explain my thoughts - NB my concern is based more on my ability to explain clearly not a reflection on your capabilities to understand.
Some other things to be considered first:
1. I need to reposition the switch because it is of the magnetic interlock type and can't be operated by a slave switch in the workshop. No big deal, i'll just run the flex through the wall (assume in all cases that Part P will be adhered to! :wink: )
2. The trolley that it is on is going to be effectively redundant so that will go.
3. The way the motor and fan are currently positioned makes it impossible to push close to the wall to save space and also is too low down given that the ducting will run overhead.
4. I want to get rid of the lower bag altogether. The struts that hold the cyclone element get in the way and I've already described the other issues with seals etc.
The mods:
1 Put in a horizontal platform (25mm MDF) to sit the cyclone attachment. This will have a large hole cut in it to allow dust and debris to drop through.
2. Replace the lower bag with a more robust container eg a bin (although ideally clear or with a window to see levels). Create a seal between top of bin and platform and use a support underneath the bin and turn-buttons around the rim. I imagine the seal will need some experimentation but what I ideally want is to be able to use standard bins so that I can put a lid on the full one and replace it simply with a spare.
3. Remove the motor and fan, invert them and position high up, although using the same length of 6" hose to keep that connection as similar to the original as possible. This will put the inlet hole the right side of the extractor cabinet and higher up ie where the ducting will run through the wall.
I have drawn it in Sketchup below - apologies I'm a beginner at this and cylinders and tubes are a bit beyond me at the mo esp when curved hence the comedy hose piece.
You are seeing it as though you were looking through the door of the extractor cabinet and the workshop wall is behind the extractor.
I think we can take it as read that any warranty claim is probably going out of the window! :lol:
Let me know if you think this could have probs (or improvements are always very welcome)
Cheers
Tim