dust extraction remote turn on

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kityuser

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I`m putting my final touches on my dust extraction plan. My problem at the moment is going to be walking over to turn it on everytime I want to use a connected machine.

any solutions anyone know of? Ideally I`d like to have an automatic system..... A bit like my monitor and printer are automatically turned on by a "sensing" 4 way plug through with the computer base unit is connected.

So in an ideal world I`d like like a "special" plug in the shop that turns the extraction system on when it senses the tablesaw/router/bandsaw/planer etc have been turned on.

A "side note" problem to consider is that my extractor has a NVR switch............

any ideas welcome.....
Steve
 
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

um.... not at that price....


Steve
 
The Maplin thingie looks quite good. I'm going to install my Camvac shortly and wonder if it would remote switch it :-k If you go down the route of remote switching I'd be interested to see how you go about it...definitely something I'm pondering about - Rob
 
woodbloke":13iplnm8 said:
The Maplin thingie looks quite good. I'm going to install my Camvac shortly and wonder if it would remote switch it :-k If you go down the route of remote switching I'd be interested to see how you go about it...definitely something I'm pondering about - Rob

for sure I`ll share. I need something because I want to keep the noise and cost (running) to a minimum.

walking over and switching it on is not an option.....
having it on all the time also is not an option...


Steve.
 
I bought a set of rc plugs from Aldi a while back and they work fine.
The big EB extracter, Microclene filter and wheeled shop vac are operated via them from the rc and they work without any modification to any of the vacs.
Cost around £10 I think.
Regards, beejay
 
I have a pull-cord switch conveniently located to switch mine. It is the double-pole type that is used for isolating electric showers etc, and it switches the socket that the extractor plugs into. I am never more than one or two steps away from it.

I've heard of problems with the remote control things others are talking of, but the most obvious problem is that you will always have to remember where you've put the damn zapper!

Mike
 
Mike Garnham":1crq6siw said:
...you will always have to remember where you've put the damn zapper!

Mike
Mike - agreed. Depends on how tidy your 'shop is though?...and I like tidy - Rob
 
oooooh, so do I Rob. Not clean.........but certainly tidy.

So, do you hang the zapper round your neck, put it in your pocket, or leave it on a bench? Either way, I reckon my ceiling pull-cord gets the extractor switched on quicker.

Mike
 
I have a similar approach to Mike with a pull cord. Mine is mounted horizontally though. An eye at one end of the workshop and the pull switch at the other with a long (blue in colour) line between them. Therefore it is always within a pace away.

The only thing to really think about is the load you will be drawing. I have a triple motor (3 x 750W) extractor. Hence 2.3kW = circa 10A draw. MK make pull switchs in 6A, 16A and 45A load ratings (you may need to go to a trade counter type place as B&Q et al only do the 6A intended for lighting).

So, a 'remote' system for £4.92+VAT. Not bad!

Simon
 
Mike Garnham":hy3lwbtc said:
oooooh, so do I Rob. Not clean.........but certainly tidy.

So, do you hang the zapper round your neck, put it in your pocket, or leave it on a bench? Either way, I reckon my ceiling pull-cord gets the extractor switched on quicker.

Mike

I like the sound of the ceiling pull cord, however I`m keen on the automatic route.

I was wondering about the intelliplug, as thats the brand I use on my computer.

Yetty -> do you actually use yours on your extraction system, no problems driving inductive loads then?


Steve
 
SVB":eqrv4xdh said:
I have a similar approach to Mike with a pull cord. Mine is mounted horizontally though. An eye at one end of the workshop and the pull switch at the other with a long (blue in colour) line between them. Therefore it is always within a pace away.

The only thing to really think about is the load you will be drawing. I have a triple motor (3 x 750W) extractor. Hence 2.3kW = circa 10A draw. MK make pull switchs in 6A, 16A and 45A load ratings (you may need to go to a trade counter type place as B&Q et al only do the 6A intended for lighting).

So, a 'remote' system for £4.92+VAT. Not bad!

Simon

I like the sound of £5!


Steve
 
It doesn't matter whether your workshop is tidy or not, if you put the zapper down somewhere, you might as well not bother. When I had the TS velcro'd the zapper to it's switch paddle, then it was always in the right place. But for multi machines, you either need multi-zappers or you need to velcro it to your apron.

MarkW's idea is the best. His system has micro switches on each blast gate which turns the system on or off. It's stupidly simple, even I can work it.
 
I have a remote control I got from axminster (not sure they do them now) The zapper is bright orange to make it difficult to loose. It took a bit of setting up but it works well. I do loose the zapper from time to time but I have hooks about the place to hang it near the machine in use. It was not cheap.

the other option is axminster sell a system that uses sensors on the machines which start the extractor when a machine starts. The problem is two fold first the price and second it is hard wired so you need to run it along the duct route.
 
SVB":29jizpqg said:
I have a similar approach to Mike with a pull cord. Mine is mounted horizontally though. An eye at one end of the workshop and the pull switch at the other with a long (blue in colour) line between them. Therefore it is always within a pace away.
Simon

Now there is a good idea!

I will adjust my system over the W/E........a 10 minute upgrade to Simon's system. Why have complex electrics and a remote when you can something as easy and cheap as that?

Mike
 
Yes thanks Tom, it does work well, and was very cheap to put together, about £25 IRC plus the blastgates.

I've been meaning to post about this for ages so I'll take the opportunity now.

I can't take much of the credit for it. The idea was mercilessly nicked from the system Axminster used to sell a few years ago (which like the current one was hideously expensive for what it was), and all the clever stuff was done down the road at a local electrical supplier.
It's basically a box with a 13A socket a flylead witha plug on, kind of an overgrown extension cable.
IMG_1996.jpg


Inside there are only 2 things: a big relay which turns the power to the socket on and off, and a transformer which provides the 12v for the switching side of things.
IMG_1985.jpg


Stick 'em in the box,
IMG_1995.jpg


Run some bell wire to microswitches on the blastgates (wire them in parallel obviously)
IMG_2046.jpg


Attach switches to blastgates using any arrangement you like that works for you. I drilled holes like this to allow the necessary movement of the actuator.
IMG_2049.jpg


With hindsight I should have chosen anothr arragement, as this one turns the extractor off when the gate is almost fully shut, forcing it to run against a sealed system for a second or so. It also has the disadvantage that should there be any obstruction that prevents the gate closing completely then the switch doesn't actuate.
 
Steve - Intelliplug worked just fine with a 3HP thicknesser/planer and 0.8HP extractor. It was made redundant after a few weeks as I got a Scheppach autoswitch freebie with the purchase of some Schepp kit.

If I used blast gates, switches on gates would be an equally elegant solution. As I don't, any autoswitch is a no effort to use solution.
 
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