Dust extraction advice

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accipiter

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I use a Henry for dust collection as well and copied a cyclone device from Youtube that works well. I used a blue 60 ltr barrel and some 2" waste pipe. I ended putting a "cross" of wood inside as the Henry could collapse the barrel in the case of a blockage,

I do pretty much the same as you - 60ltr blue barrel - but now use a dust commander anti crush valve after having problems while sanding - using a Lidl's Ash vac at the time. I now use the old Henry with the anti crush valve and have the Ash vac attached to the Aldi bandsaw. I'd fully recommend getting the valve:

 

Bigfoot1980

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I was surprised at the power of the Henry to collapse the plastic drum I used with the cyclone to start with - hence making a rigid wooden box to collect the dust with some left-over OSB.

Tip: If you use a Henry then buy another hose for it - the original hose on mine connects to the cyclone - I can then unscrew that from the Henry, screw on the spare one and use it for cleaning up in the workshop (although I do have a battery powered vac too)

Thanks, I actually recently bought another hose for it so have two already so that is good. When making the box did you use silicone to seal the parts or just glue them?
 

robgul

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Thanks, I actually recently bought another hose for it so have two already so that is good. When making the box did you use silicone to seal the parts or just glue them?

Glued all the edges when making the box (there are 15 x 15mm timber fillets along each joint) - and then silicone/caulk on the inside. The lid is a board with a frame of 15 x 15mm battens around to be a snug fit to the open top of the box - a couple of rows of rubber draught excluder all round - and then 2 toggle clips to pull it down tight to the box. Cyclone is bolted to the lid with silicone all round. I had a bit of fiddling to get the Henry connection and the hose from the ducting to mate with the cyclone - started with duct tape and then my brother made a couple of 3D printed fittings for me.
 

Bigfoot1980

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Glued all the edges when making the box (there are 15 x 15mm timber fillets along each joint) - and then silicone/caulk on the inside. The lid is a board with a frame of 15 x 15mm battens around to be a snug fit to the open top of the box - a couple of rows of rubber draught excluder all round - and then 2 toggle clips to pull it down tight to the box. Cyclone is bolted to the lid with silicone all round. I had a bit of fiddling to get the Henry connection and the hose from the ducting to mate with the cyclone - started with duct tape and then my brother made a couple of 3D printed fittings for me.

Okay thanks, I have plenty of ply in the garage so could use that. Could also go the barrel route. Thanks for the info, have given me something to think about.
 

Bigfoot1980

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I have decided to go with the barrel route and will get a 60l barrel and pressure release valve. What I would like to know is what size hose I will need? I have two standard size Henry hoses already so would these be sufficient or should I get something bigger? It appears the Cyclone inlet / outlets are somewhere around 50mm so am I better to reduce that with an adapter to the size of the Henry hoses or get new bigger hoses around 50mm?
 

accipiter

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I have decided to go with the barrel route and will get a 60l barrel and pressure release valve. What I would like to know is what size hose I will need? I have two standard size Henry hoses already so would these be sufficient or should I get something bigger? It appears the Cyclone inlet / outlets are somewhere around 50mm so am I better to reduce that with an adapter to the size of the Henry hoses or get new bigger hoses around 50mm?

That would depend on the cyclone unit you use and the sizes of the inlet and outlet openings. You'll have to decide on one of the fittings kits with reducers and go from there.

With the pressure release valve you'll need a 28mm hole saw (or similar) to fit it accurately.
 

Bigfoot1980

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That would depend on the cyclone unit you use and the sizes of the inlet and outlet openings. You'll have to decide on one of the fittings kits with reducers and go from there.

With the pressure release valve you'll need a 28mm hole saw (or similar) to fit it accurately.

Thanks for that. I had seen the 28mm hole cutter would be required so will get one of those if I haven't got one already.

At the end of the day I'll be reducing the hoses at one end or the other because the cyclones all appear to be around 50mm and the equipment I will be using on for dust collection will be smaller than this so if I can reduce the 50mm to fit the original Henry hoses everything else should be fine as I've made pvc adaptors for my tools but if it's better to have 50mm hose which then reduces at the tool I'll have to get new hose and adaptors.
 

Allen Quay

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At the end of the day I'll be reducing the hoses at one end or the other because the cyclones all appear to be around 50mm and the equipment I will be using on for dust collection will be smaller than this so if I can reduce the 50mm to fit the original Henry hoses everything else should be fine as I've made pvc adaptors for my tools but if it's better to have 50mm hose which then reduces at the tool I'll have to get new hose and adaptors.

There's a cyclone kit on Amazon that includes the reducers. I haven't bought one yet (due to lack of space in my shed) but the adapters might fit Henry's hose.

ONCCI Professional Filter Separator Cyclone Dust Collector Extractor/Vacuum Separator/Suction Vacuum Cleaner Separator with Accessories Set (Typ-1) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
 

Bigfoot1980

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Inspector

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You could embrace the collapse and get a Dust Deputy Bagger or make your own version like I did.
I've shown these pictures before.
IMG_4850.jpg


IMG_4846.jpg


Pete
 

Lorenzl

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started with duct tape and then my brother made a couple of 3D printed fittings for me.
A 3D printer is great as I have printed adaptors for my table saw, router and thicknesser. I am looking to print a remote controlled gate valve for the saw and router into one outlet - two inlets and one outlet and an off position. I have not done a lot to it since last year; now I have some new filament I should get some parts printed to test.

I have also printed a tool rack for the router to hold the spanners etc. Also a DTI holder for the router fence.
 

Kicked Back

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I have a DX1000 that I've made obsolete. It was originally my only method of extraction but it's got way too many issues.

It's disgustingly loud even with ear defenders. It overheats after 15 mins of continuous use. This makes it tricky to use with sanders or anything that's a more 'extended' operations. Airflow is too low for machinery, really.

But what really wound me up was how the filter was attached to the motor. It's basically just a loose friction fit. And it falls off. A lot. When that happens, your workshop becomes full of dust, and your motor full of crud.

I've replaced it with a Festool CTL Midi for power tools (router, sanders, tracksaw etc). Nice and quiet, can run all day. Pricey, but I found it on offer somewhere.

For machinery I went for an Axminster chip extractor, which is what I originally tried to avoid with the DX1000...
 

Bigfoot1980

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I have a DX1000 that I've made obsolete. It was originally my only method of extraction but it's got way too many issues.

It's disgustingly loud even with ear defenders. It overheats after 15 mins of continuous use. This makes it tricky to use with sanders or anything that's a more 'extended' operations. Airflow is too low for machinery, really.

But what really wound me up was how the filter was attached to the motor. It's basically just a loose friction fit. And it falls off. A lot. When that happens, your workshop becomes full of dust, and your motor full of crud.

I've replaced it with a Festool CTL Midi for power tools (router, sanders, tracksaw etc). Nice and quiet, can run all day. Pricey, but I found it on offer somewhere.

For machinery I went for an Axminster chip extractor, which is what I originally tried to avoid with the DX1000...

Thanks for the info. I'll give that a swerve then. Will stick to the Henry for now and see how that performs once I've set up the cyclone.
 

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Pete

That's genius, I take it the multiple buckets are to strengthen the rim ? are you just using thick garden bin bags ? do they not just go bang ?, hell of a lot easier to empty
 

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Pete

That's genius, I take it the multiple buckets are to strengthen the rim ? are you just using thick garden bin bags ? do they not just go bang ?, hell of a lot easier to empty

I'm no genius, just an adaptor/copycat of what I see. 😉

Actually there is only one inverted bucket. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...rs/112178-lee-valley-19-litre-pail?item=WT220 It has two reinforcing ribs. I took the bail off, cut away the plastic that holds it and that lets me put the three bungees on. One in each space with the third sitting after the second rib. Instead of the steel grate the store bought version uses to keep the bag from being drawn up too far I used some plywood to reinforce the lid. I started with holes made with a hole saw but the sawdust didn't fall through easily so I cut it bigger with a jigsaw and added the dowels. If I did it again I would only have a ring of plywood around the edge with some 3/8"/10mm dowels running across. The sawdust would drop into the bag more easily when the shop vac is shut off. Now I have to tap the side of the bucket a couple times to shake the remaining dust down.

The bags are 142L contractor bags, 3mil thick (.076mm) that I get from the lumberyard. They are thicker than any household or garden bag I've ever seen. When it is about half full it is heavy enough that I change it for a new one. I don't reuse them as it is possible to get holes that will spoil the suction. They are about $20Cad/13pound) for a box of 20 to 24 bags. Since the pictures were taken I cut the plywood down to keep the bag resting on the bottom of the cart instead of lifting off will the vac is on.

IMG_4845.jpg


Pete
 

Bigfoot1980

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So I've put everything together but the anti crush valve appears to be 'too' open which means that the amount of suck is reduced so much it doesn't really work. I've tried adjusting but it doesn't seem to do anything. When holding the anti crush valve closed the suck improves but then obviously the barrel implodes. For those that have the valve did you get two springs with it because that is what I've seen on YouTube but I only got one and I don't think it's pulling the valve up enough under normal use?
 

accipiter

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So I've put everything together but the anti crush valve appears to be 'too' open which means that the amount of suck is reduced so much it doesn't really work. I've tried adjusting but it doesn't seem to do anything. When holding the anti crush valve closed the suck improves but then obviously the barrel implodes. For those that have the valve did you get two springs with it because that is what I've seen on YouTube but I only got one and I don't think it's pulling the valve up enough under normal use?

Just been to check out the one I fitted - only has 1 spring from what I can see.

I do find that the valve will open depending on what stage of operation I'm at when using it. I did find it a bit of a fiddle to adjust and may not yet have it set correctly. As it doesn't open when the Henry is switched on and *no* machine actually working on any wood - thicknesser or router, not planning or cutting wood - the valve is closed I'm assuming that's how it is meant to be!? Only opens fully if I block the inlet.

Hopefully others will also post - and I'll adjust mine more if I have to.
 
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