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Drilling accurate, straight holes to a set depth - options?

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SLJ

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Hi. New to the forum, so hello!

I am working at home and need to drill holes in my home-made 18mm birch ply kitchen cupboard doors to accommodate Ikea hinges. No doubt you're familiar with this type of hinge. They require a 35mm, 11/12mm deep hole, plus the adjacent smaller ones, obviously accurately drilled, I'd imagine with a forstner bit, but maybe a spade bit. I don't have a pillar drill, nor any kind of guides. So what I'd like to know is what do you think I need as a minimum to drill these kind of holes properly? I've looked at some drill guides and they look pretty bad, on the whole (the sort that you use with a hand electric drill). I've also looked at a cheap Silverline pillar drill that by most accounts, although obviously not great, can be used with success if set up correctly.

Of course, that comes with it's own inconveniences. It needs to be set up on it's own stand, which I could do, but it's a hassle.

So I was just looking for some feedback on what a DIYer could use and get proper, accurate results and not want to throw in the bin immediately :) or if there's a clever jig I could make.

Bear in mind, whatever I get will not get used much other than for this job, and I don't have a workshop (yet), so not much storage space.

Would really appreciate any ideas.

Thanks.
 

clanger

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I can't see it on their website any more, but Trend used to do a cabinet hinge jig. There may be some dealers that still have it.

Essentially, this cuts the 35mm hole using a router. It is great for making repeatable holes evenly spaced top and bottom, left opening/right opening.

HTH,

Chris
 

Yojevol

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Hi and welcome to the forum.
In your situation I would get hold of a cheap set of Forstner bits (£8 on the bay, inc 35mm). This large size will be easy to keep upright in a hand drill as you will see how true it is as it begins to cut. Have a few tries on some scrap to get going and get the feel of it. The only problem that may occur is that you will need a fair bit of downward pressure to make it cut. On some of my larger sizes I have filed back the side skirt edge so that the cutting edge takes all the downward force. Some Forstner bits have serrated skirt edges so that they act a bit more like a hole saw. I am told there is a reason for the 2 designs but I cannot remember what it is.
Brian
 

SLJ

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Hi chaps.

Thanks for the ideas.

It looks like I can use a forstner bit in a hand drill, but I would be concerned about going too deep without a stop or guide of some kind.

I've seen a couple of forstner bits with a built-in depth guide, but they seem to be not recommended for anything other than chipboard/MDF, for some reason.

What do you guys think of the jigs available on the market?
 

Pete Maddex

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Do you have a router?

You can get hinge bits for a router so you can set the depth and distance from the edge with the fence.

Pete
 

SLJ

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Hi. Yes, I've just found a Trend one on Amazon. Looks fine. I think I might go for the Kreg jig, though, as it saves a bit of hassle and has the screw hole guide built in.
 

SLJ

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Doug71":1h1imx5y said:
I have always just done them with a cordless drill, no jig, but you need a decent drill bit.
That's a lovely bit, no doubt! What's nice with the Kreg jig, though, is it is a perfect template for my hinges, including the depth guide/screw holes and costs about the same. Admittedly, your bit is way nicer - maybe too nice for the amount I'll use it :)
 

gmgmgm

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SLJ":1tlqhct9 said:
It looks like I can use a forstner bit in a hand drill, but I would be concerned about going too deep without a stop or guide of some kind.
What's wrong with some tape/marker on the drill bit to show where to stop?

If you're only going in a few mm, then a few wraps of tape around the bit (or something thicker) may provide enough of a barrier to stop you.
 

SLJ

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Well, it's 11/12mm depth, so past the thickness/depth of a forstner bit (I think), so tape wouldn't work, unfortunately.
 

profchris

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You could just stick some scraps of appropriately thick wood, or even card, on the back of the bit. When they're level with the surface, you're done.
 

SLJ

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Hi. Thanks. Yes, I did look at one of those. Nothing wrong with it, but I've gone with the Kreg jig, as it has more features for less money. Cheers anyway.
 

AES

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I'd be very interested to hear how you get on with that Kreg jig SLJ.

I've seen them advertised and in the video they look good - of course! So I wondered (like you, not that I'd use one very often, but good to have when needed). I have no experience of them but do have a Kreg K4 pocket hole jig which, love PHs or hate 'em, as far as build quality n longevity of the thing as a tool goes, I think you'd be hard pushed to better it from any manufacturer.

So when it arrives and then you've had time to use it, your heads-up on it as a tool would be appreciated, TIA
 

GrahamF

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A word of warning. Last Forstener bit I used had an over long centre point which broke through the face when the bit was at the correct depth so, had to grind a bit off it. As mentioned above, practice on scrap first.
 

SLJ

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AES":cqysebwm said:
I'd be very interested to hear how you get on with that Kreg jig SLJ.

I've seen them advertised and in the video they look good - of course! So I wondered (like you, not that I'd use one very often, but good to have when needed). I have no experience of them but do have a Kreg K4 pocket hole jig which, love PHs or hate 'em, as far as build quality n longevity of the thing as a tool goes, I think you'd be hard pushed to better it from any manufacturer.

So when it arrives and then you've had time to use it, your heads-up on it as a tool would be appreciated, TIA
Hi. Well, there's a guy on Youtube that does a demo video/review and he rates it (he's not affiliated with Kreg). I'm fairly sure it'll be fine for my purposes - small run and not used professionally every day. But yeah, I'll post a comment about how I got on. Cheers.
 
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