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dovetail saws

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Anonymous

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I found the posts on dovetail saws so interesting that I have started on the conversion of a gent's saw to a 12ppi open handle rip saw.

My question is, can a very minimal set be done with a standard saw set, or is set really needed for a dovetail saw?

This is my first attempt at saw sharpening, and any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

Adam

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Welcome to the forum Bert.

I'm sure one of the hand-tool gurus will be along shortly to sort you out!

Adam
 

Chris Knight

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Bert you can certainly dovetail with a gent's saw. Received wisdom these days tends to focus on a rip tooth configuration rather than a cross-cut which is what Gents saws are sold as (although they can be resharpened to rip as you are doing) or the use of small Japanese back saws.

Some people swear by one or the other and variations on the theme but really it's a matter of personal choice. If you have trouble using one kind of saw, just try another.

The goal is to cut straight and whatever works for you is right.
 

Alf

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Welcome to the forum, Bert.

bert":1gfu4obi said:
I found the posts on dovetail saws so interesting that I have started on the conversion of a gent's saw to a 12ppi open handle rip saw.
Gosh, good for you. :D

Bert":1gfu4obi said:
My question is, can a very minimal set be done with a standard saw set, or is set really needed for a dovetail saw?
Warning: setting saws is easily the weakest point in my saw sharpening bluff-, er, knowledge. :oops: Well, it depends... I think, with the ppi you're going for, that some set will be needed. On very dry, thin wood using a finer ppi you can get away without any additional set, but it's a bit iffy. As far as the set itself goes, just crank it up to the finest setting disregarding any tpi stamped on it and see how it goes. You can always remove some with a stone if it's too much. The only problem you can sometimes have is the plunger on the saw set is too big for the tooth size, but that can be filed down apparently. BugBear's adapted an Eclipse for finer teeth by doing that very thing, IIRC. I tend to look out for older saw sets simply because they usually have narrower plungers - picked up two last weekend causing the dealer to ask if I bought my saws in pairs too. :roll:

Cheers, Alf
 

Chris Knight

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Bert,
I completely misread your post and your question - apologies. And thanks to Alf, whose post made me realise I need to put my glasses on and have a cup of coffee before I attempt a sensible reply to anything!
 
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Anonymous

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I'll take a crack at setting the teeth. Not much to lose I guess.

Thanks for the advise

Bert
 

bugbear

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<i>The only problem you can sometimes have is the plunger on the saw set is too big for the tooth size, but that can be filed down apparently.</i>

The plunger is hardened, so a file won't work. I used SiC and a certain world famous jig to get a neat result.

A quick touch up on a power grinder (careful!) would probably serve.

BugBear
 

Alf

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bugbear":1nuylrjc said:
The plunger is hardened, so a file won't work. I used SiC and a certain world famous jig to get a neat result.

A quick touch up on a power grinder (careful!) would probably serve.
I Recalled Incorrectly :roll:

Cheers, Alf
 
A

Anonymous

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Welcome aboard!

For those of you who gave me some help on the saw handle, I've gone with some Walnut for the new handle. It has been glued up to rough thickness, and at somepoint this week I'll cut the shape.

The walnut was some odds and sods left over from a table, and I think using them proves that all of those little bits of wood that I accumulate can be used! :lol:
 
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