devonwoody
Established Member
Tony has suggested that I post my latest jig for use with a bandsaw to make dovetail pins be archived.
Dovetail pins, not test fitted but whacked straight in.
Dovetail jig on bandsaw table with fence and spacers in place:
Rear view of jig without fence and spacers.
Jig reversersed to make other side of pins.
The making up of the jig needs in my opinion to be of heavy weight ply (reclaimed ply cheapest) because my bandsaw table blade I found was not central. ( I expect it was designed that way so that the cast iron table top fell to its heaviest side)
Therefore make jig to your table size and cut a pair of wedges (on bandsaw) at 8 degrees these I screwed and glued between the leaves of the jig. I also put in some strengtheners inside the jig and side.
The jig was then laid on the bandsaw table and pushed through the blade, it was after this that I then found that my B/S blade was not central to the top. This necessitated another cut to be made from the reverse end so that slope of jig could be reversed when cutting second angle of pin.
If you have a central blade I imagine the board would only need turning over to obtain that reverse slope. Working the jig details as follows:-
Width of timber to be jointed 81mm
Decide the width of one pin (top edge) Say 15 mm
subtract 15 mm from 81mm = 66mm
Decide two tails will be required, devide 66mm by 2 = 33 mm spacers will be required. or if three tails required devide 66mm by 3 = 22 mm spacers required.
Cut one pin line on jig and then insert a spacer and cut again, insert second spacer and so on. A backstop is handy when cutting, also put rear thruster bearing on to the back of saw blade to ensure cut length is maintained equally on all cuts.
Then reverse jig on saw table and insert spacers as required to cut second line of pins.
After that you have the pleasure of cutting tails either by hand in the vice or cutting freehand on the band saw.
Dovetail pins, not test fitted but whacked straight in.
Dovetail jig on bandsaw table with fence and spacers in place:
Rear view of jig without fence and spacers.
Jig reversersed to make other side of pins.
The making up of the jig needs in my opinion to be of heavy weight ply (reclaimed ply cheapest) because my bandsaw table blade I found was not central. ( I expect it was designed that way so that the cast iron table top fell to its heaviest side)
Therefore make jig to your table size and cut a pair of wedges (on bandsaw) at 8 degrees these I screwed and glued between the leaves of the jig. I also put in some strengtheners inside the jig and side.
The jig was then laid on the bandsaw table and pushed through the blade, it was after this that I then found that my B/S blade was not central to the top. This necessitated another cut to be made from the reverse end so that slope of jig could be reversed when cutting second angle of pin.
If you have a central blade I imagine the board would only need turning over to obtain that reverse slope. Working the jig details as follows:-
Width of timber to be jointed 81mm
Decide the width of one pin (top edge) Say 15 mm
subtract 15 mm from 81mm = 66mm
Decide two tails will be required, devide 66mm by 2 = 33 mm spacers will be required. or if three tails required devide 66mm by 3 = 22 mm spacers required.
Cut one pin line on jig and then insert a spacer and cut again, insert second spacer and so on. A backstop is handy when cutting, also put rear thruster bearing on to the back of saw blade to ensure cut length is maintained equally on all cuts.
Then reverse jig on saw table and insert spacers as required to cut second line of pins.
After that you have the pleasure of cutting tails either by hand in the vice or cutting freehand on the band saw.
