Double Twisted Dovetail Fun

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mudman":9ert8orp said:
So what do you think the Dyson in the fireplace piccy was? :wink:
That? That's only a gloat if it's a fully functioning one and Philly Jnr does all the vacuuming. :lol: And even then that'd probably be considered Mrs Philly's gloat... :wink:

Cheers, Alf

P.S. Anyway it doesn't have a ball. Sheesh. That's, like, soooooo yesterday. :roll:
 
Neil, Alf
Thanks (I think?) for the concern-fear not, although my tool gloatage has been a little lacking recently I haven't given it up completely. I'm just reaching that "I seem to have a fair few tools" stage and REALLY gloatable stuff I just can't justify. Besides, Chris would only whoop me with a gold plated one...... :lol: :roll:
The Dyson does belong to the "Little Helper"-She likes to follow Mummy around the house with the real one. Cute, huh? :oops:
So, to veneering. Had a look at Bagpress and Airpress websites. Some serious cash needed for a decent set.......Anyone had experience with the compressor driven Bagpress?? Still prefer to work in solid, though. Hmm.....
So do you like the design? Kinda blocky, slab style, like the fireplace. Maybe use a plainer wood for the top and Zebrano for the drawers, instead?
Cheers
Philly :lol:
 
Philly":laihjkpx said:
She likes to follow Mummy around the house with the real one.
Mummy eh? Figures... :roll: Now your rate of project completion is explained. :wink:

Philly":laihjkpx said:
So do you like the design? Kinda blocky, slab style, like the fireplace. Maybe use a plainer wood for the top and Zebrano for the drawers, instead?
I'm going to run away and hide my opinion on this one. Blocky isn't my thing. :oops:

Cheers, Alf
 
Here's another description of the joints execution. I've been knocking it out on and off for about fifteen or eighteen years.

I occasionally use it in pieces of furniture, but the danger is that the tricky joinery can triumph over all other aesthetic and functional considerations.

It doesn't, in my opinion, add anything to furniture designs in busy woods like zebrano, often being better in woods like maple, cherry or even walnut or mahogany. Slainte.


http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=furniture&file=articles_442.shtml
 
Thanks for your insights Richard! I had a hard time getting the joint together (especially the first time!). Would you cut it by hand always or do you use other methods?
I appreciate what you lot say about fancy grain/ fancy joints. I just don't see this table being made in a plainer wood. :?
Cheers
Philly :D
 
Philly, I've always cut it by hand. I charge 6 hours per 150 mm joint length, with a 5% discount for each additional 150 mm length (or part length) of it up to a maximum discount of 30%.

Therefore a 450 mm joint length works out at 14.5 hrs, and a pair of the joints this long at either end of an inverted U shaped assembly is charged at 25 hrs to the nearest 1/2 hour.

Below is an example of a pair of the joints at about 500 mm long each. At this sort of length it gets very tricky to assemble, and you need a slow setting glue like liquid hide glue or a slow setting epoy resin.

coffeetable3.jpg


I've not attempted to execute it using what seem to be the US style machining methods you illustrate on your website-- well it looks like a Biesemeyer type rip fence, and I recognise the cross cut fence from when I lived and worked in the US, and of course there's no riving knife or crown guard anywhere to be seen, ha, ha--ha, ha, ha.

You must be a fan of old no-guards-n'-nail-gun-Norm, ha, ha. I can't get away with those sorts of dodges in my working environment. HSE would probably close us down in a flash.

As to working the joint in your proposed project Zebrano is often pretty stringy due to the interlocked grain and if that's the case joints aren't easily worked and planing results in tear-out and spelch can be a real problem.

Preparation for polishing is often best done with sanding techniques-- thickness sanders and stroke sanders being good options because hand sanding can take forever and the surface can end up badly hollowed and humpy looking. Slainte.
 
Sgian Dubh":1vlwpzzt said:
You must be a fan of old no-guards-n'-nail-gun-Norm, ha, ha.
You have no idea... :roll:

Actually thanks for mentioning that, Richard. We're tending to get a little desensitised to Philly's Norm moments and lack of guards, which is a Bad Thing.

Cheers, Alf
 
Richard
Thanks again for the info-25 hours, eh! Lets see, £5 an hour, times 25............ :lol: :lol: :wink:
As you saw, I couldn't use the riving knife or guard when cutting the joint on the table saw. I can't think of a way of effectively guarding the blade in this instance, so there you go. Obviously, extreme caution was used. In a professional environment I appreciate you could not do this without getting into trouble (if there was an accident). I do (mostly :wink: ) use guards with my table saw. Even when using my dado.............. (oops! :lol: )
I have used Zebrano in the past-like you say, tough grain and a bit splitty. So maybe this is not going to be an "easy" timber to make this table with. Time for a think.......... :D
The table you pictured-how thick is the material used?? Looks like an inch, inch and a quarter? How much effort went into pulling the joints up? Did you use a hammer or glue on battens and pull it together with clamps?
thanks again,
Philly :D
 
Philly":3e5keiog said:
So do you like the design? Kinda blocky, slab style, like the fireplace. Maybe use a plainer wood for the top and Zebrano for the drawers, instead?
Cheers
Philly :lol:

Hi Philly

Missed this thread growing for some reason - probably my work load which has prevented play over the past few weeks

I really like the look of the table a lot, the design is most definitely to my taste. However, Zebrano? Hate it!!!!

I don't think Zebrano drawers are the way to go, you need the bulk to be Zebrano to reflect the impact of the fireplace. Stick with the picture you posted and you won't go far worng.

FWIW, I would build the main structure out of ply or MDF and veneer.
 
Philly, the top is 18 mm thick, I think. It's been a while since I made that one. The top of the slab ends are also 18 mm, but that's at the top end of a tapered slab which at the base must be about 30 or 35 mm thick.

I do seem to have this knack of designing things that are technically challenging, but I can do the tricky stuff easily enough nowadays after all these years of whacking wood for a living. The problem is that now I've just about got good my eyes are going so I can't see how good I think I am, ha, ha.

It was wriggled and hammered together with hard wood softening of some sort. Some clamps and blocks went on to make sure it was all tight at the end. One corner was done at a time, so two glueing sessions were required. Slainte.
 
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