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Double sided tape?

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BillK

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I use a lot of carpet d/s tape for template routing, you have to get the amount right or it's a bear to separate parts. Palette knife to start removing a thing if it won't shift by hand. I rounded the corners off so it won't dig into any wood.

Sometimes you get little bits of tape left on template or part when you pull the tape off, they get dabbed off with the scraps of tape pulled off, any leftovers get a quick wipe with kitchen towel and celly thinners. Or panel wipe if it's a painted part (painter's solvent, also called pre-paint in the US I think? a solvent that doesn't harm paint, meant for removing fingerprints and such before spraying).

That tape seems pressure sensitive, and time sensitive. Both make it stick harder and be harder to get off.

Tried the tape+CA thing, not really a fan, at least for what I do but it does work well as such.
 

AES

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Another thought to add to the above - Aldi here sells a "pen" containing a fairly foul-smelling liquid which is designed to remove the residue from sticky labels. (I use them to remove the labels from empty jam jars - my wife makes jam).

Haven't tried that on DS tape residue but worth a punt?
 

recipio

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I just use two panel pins as I'm mostly making jigs for the router. Just let them penetrate about 6 mm They hold perfectly and prise off easily. Otherwise if I'm making something with prized hardwood I use carpet double sided tape. Beware - it's sticky stuff ! To get off residue use Panel Wipe which is mostly alcohol and smells nice !
 

pe2dave

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Which D/s tape is it? I use 3M when I want a solid bond, but just basic decorators’ merchant stuff for general use. Warming the tape up helps the adhesive lift more easily. Also curious which vid you were watching where I did this?? 🤔 🤷‍♂️
This one is Sellotape 1"
Your tracksaw parallel guides? Except there, you don't want to remove it.
I'm going to try the ds tape on masking, or Marks Sticky Stuff Remover.
This was on wood where I wanted to keep the the surface 'clean' hence reluctant to use petrol / lighter fluid. Unsure on the effect for wax finish.
 

ovenpaa

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Paraffin works well on tape residue. We use double sided tape a fair bit for holding parts when milling and paraffin is better than acetone, methylated spirits or rubbing alcohol when it comes to removing the residue.
 

BillK

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That could have been the problem Bill, I was routing which applies pressure.
Hi Dave,
With the tape I have if you lean on it or give it a tap with a rubber mallet, the tape sticks harder. Sometimes I nip things in the bench clamps if paranoid about the template moving at all, sticks very hard then... much messier to separate.
Templates I'm going to keep get a quick coat of poly varnish, otherwise too much tape, or time or pressure, it can tear out MDF or ply.
Having just enough tape to stop any sliding, vs being hard to separate parts, is always a thing.
 

TominDales

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Acetone. Otherwise known as nail polish remover. Only, don't buy too much or you'll have Special Branch kicking your door down. 🤔
DS adhesives vary depending on brand and bond strength, some are low tack. Inspectors method with masking take is often effective in my experience. Acetone is kind of the last resort solvent, its very powerful so could damage any plastic or finish and is highly flammable - flash point of -17. So as JC says, keep it to small amounts as it goes up with a terrific bang.
I recommend try with milder solvents first eg turps (only works with a few) alcohol, IPA. Milder nail polish remover contains ethyl acetate and IPA-( enamel solvent) as its milder than acetone. Acetone or even DCM are the last resort in the cupboard. both, Toxic, later is not flammable and remove almost any polymer.
As others have said most adhesives harden over time, moisture is often the hardening agent so can be used as an activator, but it will cause adhesives to age - , sunlight is also an issue, its causes more chemical bonding (the hardening reaction) to take place which makes the adhesive go much harder and eventually so hard it becomes brittle and then friable as the polymer starts to fragment. Adhesives contain reactive resins (polymers) that are stable before use. Depending on the type of resin (some need a two part hardener), most use water (eg super glue) as the hardening agent. Some use UV light - so need a light pen. But in nearly all cases time, moisture and sunlight will increase hardening to varying degrees - exception being specialist marine resins designed to resist moisture for longer.
 

pe2dave

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Hi Dave,
With the tape I have if you lean on it or give it a tap with a rubber mallet, the tape sticks harder. Sometimes I nip things in the bench clamps if paranoid about the template moving at all, sticks very hard then... much messier to separate.
Templates I'm going to keep get a quick coat of poly varnish, otherwise too much tape, or time or pressure, it can tear out MDF or ply.
Having just enough tape to stop any sliding, vs being hard to separate parts, is always a thing.
I'm wondering about sandwiching DS tape between masking tape, see if that works as well and is removable.
 

Chunkytfg

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I bought some DS tape that did the same thing as my usual Ds tape was all used up and I couldnt get to the shops to get more of it. Promptly realised I was fighting a losing battle and I was better off bulk buying my usual stuff.

I use DS tape from WIlko. Their own brand stuff. £4 a roll IIRC and works perfect for template routing
 
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