door seal

[wallace]

I am having a go at making a new front door and frame and wondered if any one can recommend a weather seal that could be incorporated into the frame.

 

[PAC1]

Aquamac 21 is the one for doors though I sometimes also use 63 as well

 

[wallace]

thanks for that

 

[Kev]

I always use Aquamac 21 as well. Works well.

Kev

 

[wallace]

Whats a good thickness for a door. My old door is 43mm and is made from sapele I think. I've been machining some timber up that I already had but its come out at 39mm. I have a friend who sells windows from George barnsdales and he says I should be making my door at least 60mm.

 

[deema]

There is IMO no such thing as a door that's too thick, only one that's too thin. My doors are oak and are c60mm thick allowing me to have decent double / thriple (encased leaded lights) glazed lights.

 

[dzj]

I made a 100mm one recently. The architect thought it was a good idea.
I don't know...
The hardware was quite costly.

 

[PAC1]

I generally make doors from 2.5 inch timber and finish it 57mm these days

 

[Beau]

Another vote for Aquamac 21. Can be used as a compression or wiping seal.

 

[PAC1]

I generally make doors from 2.5 inch timber and finish it 57mm these days

 

[wallace]

So whats the reason for the over thickness, to stop heat loss? Security?
I would like the door to be half with two raised panels and the top just clear glass. My hallway is very dark so I want as much light in as possible. Can any one recommend a blade setup for my spindle moulder that will cut the moulding on the stiles and then scribe on the rails. I have serrated blocks and whitehill blocks

 

[PAC1]

If you use a modern double glazing unit it is very difficult to to achieve 44mm. You can use the narrow dg units and achieve 44mm but you probably cannot achieve the u value requirement. I made a few French windows and the 57mm door was the only way I could achieve the u value. The downside is you need double tenons.

 

[dzj]

So whats the reason for the over thickness, to stop heat loss? Security?

Yes, all that and to prevent noise from the outside coming in.
Can't help with the suggestion re the cutters, but if it's a one-off job, perhaps you might look
at other ways to approach the build. Maybe rebates and beads, or twin beads (not sure if this is the correct term).

 

[No skills]

I'll be making my own front door towards the end of the year (2 glazed panel, 2 normal), I will be aiming for 50-55mm door thickness I think - probably from sapelle.

My current front door is 44mm thick from misc hardwood, it's nowhere near as rigid as you expect an exterior door to be - extra thickness lets me use some insulation in the bottom panels/double glazing and gives some extra strength.

I might laminate mine, will have to see how I feel come project time.

 

[PAC1]

Whitehill do cutters and scribes to work with 57mm and 15mm rebates.

 

[wallace]

My machined up timber is 39mm do you think this is enough. I was thinking I could cut down the middle and add some more wood in the middle?

 

[RobinBHM]

Generally b/regs compliant doors are 56mm / 57mm /58mm thick made from ex 2 1/2" timber.

On a 58mm thick door, if you allow 15mm for the moulding, that leaves 43mm rebate comprising 24mm sealed unit with an 18mm bead sitting back by 1mm.

 

[wallace]

Thanks Robin I think I will laminate some timber. For the raised panels what is good practice for ensuring a watertight seal on the outside. I was thinking a bead of silicone allowed to go off before installing the panels.

 

[Flynnwood]

I bookmarked this ... might help?

oak-front-doors-and-a-window-t79608.html