Door frame and skirting board stripping ? Caustic soda?

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HeliGav

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Hi guys!

Ive started to strip the door frames and skirting, ive tried a sraper and heat gun but there is about 10 layers of different types of paint multiple gloss etc etc. and im struggling to be honest.

After a couple of searches on google ive heard about caustic soda which can paint on and lifts paint better than anything? Im going to repaint with white gloss after so if the wood is marked it does not matter as long as it is smooth.

Can anyone share any experience using this product and any recommendations on any products to remove paint as there is so many mixed reviews.

The caustic route seems to be mixing crystals ? Ratio recipe etc.

PLEASE HELP SHE IS DRIVING ME CRAZY ABOUT REDECORATING LOL
 
Its very dangerous stuff, not the sort of stuff to be used indoors.
There are some gel paint strippers that are much safer to use, I would look at those first.

Pete
 
There is no easy solution. There's no chemical or power tool that will remove ten layers of paint simply, cleanly and cheaply. That's why eight layers of paint became nine, and nine layers became ten.

You could remove the doors and take them to be stripped commercially where they'll get dunked in a vat. Some people say it's a recipe for warping and that chemical residue left in the grain causes future paint problems, but in my (admittedly limited) experience it worked fine. It seems expensive, but after you've done a door by hand it will suddenly look like the world's greatest bargain!
 
Nightmare! Been there - whatever you do it's horrible, hard work and messy. How about replacing the lot? (Genuine suggestion).
 
Roughcut":2an0er1p said:

The problem is that Nitromors is no longer your father's Nitromors!

As I understand it Nitromors were forced into a reformulation to remove some chemical nasty, of course they billed it as a huge improvement, in reality it no longer works as well. Which is why I believe the original formula is still available, but only to registered trade customers who can be trusted to dispose of the residue responsibly...in theory at least.
 
A good quality heat gun, Scrapers cut and shaped from a discarded handsaw, and sandpaper,
Like all paint jobs, preparation is all!
Regards Rodders

PS, Forgot to say be careful of the fumes as you're melting/burning old lead paint and those ever present chemicals!
 
it might be easier to replace skirting/architrave with new stuff unless you have some really wide fancy Victorian stuff. Another option might be to just give the old stuff a really good prep before adding the 11th layer. It will be much easier to sand all the painted over debris and drips than to remove all the paint and then still have to do a load of prep before painting. Use a primer and a decent top paint that is semi gloss which will hide any imperfections, a high gloss will highlight
 
wallace":mj9fvx53 said:
Another option might be to just give the old stuff a really good prep before adding the 11th layer. It will be much easier to sand all the painted over debris and drips than to remove all the paint and then still have to do a load of prep before painting. Use a primer and a decent top paint that is semi gloss which will hide any imperfections, a high gloss will highlight

As always Wallace is the voice of sensible, practical reason.

I give a potted history of Nitromors, Blackrod tells you to cut up an old saw plate, Paul recommends spending several hundred pounds on a re-fit, nothing actually useful or realistic from any of us. Everyone knows what the best course of action is, but Wallace is the one who actually says it!
 
I've got a paint stripper attachment for my propane blowlamp. It produces a fan-shaped flame, and it certainly works, but it's way too powerful to be easily controlled.

I'm with Wallace on this really, Unless essential, key the surface and paint over it!

If you must strip them and you must use a hot air gun or a blowlamp, consider removing the skirtings and taking them outside - lead paint fumes are REALLY bad for you (permanent brain damage to a greater or lesser extent - lead accumulates in the body apparently).

I'm working on covings at the moment, for which only very careful scraping seems to work (it's another vile job). The skirttings are already removed and going outside to be done, now the weather's a bit better.
 
Well the map gas blow torch was abit to wild! (Missus was abit worried we might be spending the evening in a tent lol) The write up on the paint strippers was crap! So decided to replace, ill give the main frame a blast with the sander and replace the architrave and skirting. Fingers crossed will look ok, hopefuuly go on quick aswell with the brad nailer! Cheers for the help!
 
I live in a small overpriced crappy terraced house that is 125 years old and has been badly maintained for at least half of that time, as you may imagine there's a fair bit of crappy paintwork here.

My main weapon for removing layers of ****** old paint has been a carbide rasp attachment for my multi tool, they are very course and last for ages, I've only had flat ones so I don't know if they are any good for your mouldings but for flat timber or gentle curves they are pretty good. After doing the initial rasping I worked up through the grits with sand paper (60 through 120/180) to finish off.

As a comparison for speed I spent best part of a day trying to sand through paint on 2 door frames with 60 grit papers, when I tried the rasp I got the paint stripped off 3 frames in an hour and was ready to start sanding through the grits with regular paper.

Excellent dust collection is essential when doing this (as mentioned above, lead is nasty nasty stuff).

Fwiw
 
the new breed of eco strippers can be surprisingly effective on household paint but boy is it a pain to use. As long as you have plenty of time to leave on and then for the wood to dry afterwards - it can work. Google Biostrip to find their particular product.......
 
I watched my Dad for years during every holiday he had, stripping white gloss paint off skirting boards and doors etc. I vowed at that time I would never had any white painted wood in my house. All my woodwork is varnished and gets a quick sand and touch up every 25 years or so. Easiest way to go.
 
I have not tried this but I have heard of soda crystals being mixed with wallpaper adhesive as a the carrier for the purpose you describe
Russell
 
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