Lost me with "paring the bottom of a socket"You lost me at "boutique chisels".
I have no clue who would use butt chisels to make dovetails, but I've never seen you post neat work - ever, so I wouldn't take your advice on any of this.Lost me with "paring the bottom of a socket"
Best chisels for DT sockets and similar are short stubby firmers, then a short and narrow bevel edge to finish off corners out of reach. The last thing you use would be a paring chisel - which is basically for fine planing cuts in places where you couldn't get a plane
LN, LV, woodpeckers. Whatever the flavor of the day is that gurus are pushing. The chisels I'm making are more or less copies of older English chisels, but maybe a little older yet in some aspects (no need for everything to be rectilinear as they're ground freehand and not across a wheel but rather parallel to it. Maybe they would be considered boutique. I will ask for $125 for the set of five above because that's what it costs to make them (not very boutique-y). I don't keep track of whether or not people pay, either - these chisels are shipped. It makes no real difference to me if someone pays or doesn't pay - I'm making chislels as a hobby.You lost me at "boutique chisels".
You need to have a go at making DTs. You might see what I mean.I have no clue who would use butt chisels to make dovetails, but I've never seen you post neat work - ever, so I wouldn't take your advice on any of this.
Simple cabinetmaker style tang chisels would do it all.
it's sort of a beginner's thing. Not that only beginners do it, but it takes very little time to get over the idea that a 10 inch chisel is awkward to use if you just hold the handle and place the end in a marked line or ahead of it (whatever is needed).Cosman mentioned he lopped the plastic handles in half on some cheapies when he was starting off.
I haven't had the need to cut dovetails, but his methodology of pinching the chisels at the end looks very hard work on the digits.
Personally I find the longer the better, as there's less chance for an undercut, and I'd rather have the choice being a wood plugger.
Hopefully my post didn't make it sound like they're not good chisels - they just aren't (based on the feel) a steel that will be that hardenable (the same buck brothers plane irons don't gain much of anything from rehardening after tempered).Earlier in this thread, I mentioned Buck Bros. carpentry chisels, resembling vintage Stanley #60s, with yellow handles and strike button. These are “Made in USA” chisels, and are being phased out and replaced with “Made in China” Buck Bros., with different style of handle and a bit longer steel length.
I do not own any of the replacements, but I do have a couple of the original, finding them to be excellent for general carpentry use, suitable for wailing with a two pound mash (engineer) hammer!