DIY Router Table advice.

[Dissolve]

Hello!

I'm mainly using my routers for guitar bodies/neck and when I'm using templates I'm finding it a little bit inconsistent due to ever so slight router tipping.

To get the depth of cut I ned, I'm using a Dewalt 625 which is on the heavy side, so I'm thinking of making a router table to make this easier, as I much prefer the idea of moving the workpiece around the bit.

I have no space for a full sized router table but I am just about to put up a secondary workbench made from 2 laminated 18mm thick MDF pieces.

Would it possible to create a box type stand for one side of the workbench and house the router inside this box, route a recess in the MDF for the router base and then add a 3-4mm aluminium plate to the top with a hole drilled for access?

I have the fine height adjuster for the dewalt which for now would be the method of lifting the router and obviously when I need the space I can just retract the bit and plug the hole to use the bench? I won't be using the router table much aside from template bits so I'm reluctant to spend a heap of money and dedicate a ton of space for one but this seems like I could just recess into the 36mm of MDF I have and add some sort of place to directly mount the router onto?

What's the best method of attaching a router insert plate for easy removal/bit changing?

 

[Mike Wingate]

I made this benchtop router table. I build guitars. It takes a DW625EK in a Jessem Router lift. Stands on the bench and gripped in the vice.
http://s130.photobucket.com/user/wingat ... t=3&page=1

Made from MDF and kitchen worktop.

 

[mseries]

I bolt my MOF96E directly to the underside of my route table using some of the tapped holes already in the base. I have created a recess in the underside of the top so at this point my top is about 10mm thick. On the top I have a 6mm circular recess to allow me to fit different sized inserts depending on the cutter I am using. There are a few more details on my table elsewhere on this forum. So your ideas sound similar to mine but I use no metal plate. My whole ensemble has short 'leg's and it sits in my workmate with the router hanging through the gap in the workmate jaws. Depth adjustment is by a fine height adjuster. it's cheap and compact. Changing bits can be a bit awkward sometimes but usually I just slop my spanner under the table to the collet and hold the lock with another hand. Since it's small ( 2' x 1') it's not too difficult to lift the whole thing to access the router.

 

[Reggie]

fyi. Rutlands are doing a deal on 4 packs of 48" mitre t-track, £29.95 + postage. A single 48" length is £24.95.

 

[Dissolve]

Thanks guys, I am thinking of buying an aluminium router table plate and fitting that directly into my worktop/bench made from the MDF, but I am tempted to recess and fix the router directly tothe top as it is now, for the time being to save some cash that I can't really afford! haha

When it comes to recessing and fixing the router to the MDF, how do people changing bits? I'm in two minds whether to stick with a metal plate I can remove easily for ease of changing bits, or to see how things are with the MDF as it is?

Thanks

 

[mseries]

When it comes to recessing and fixing the router to the MDF, how do people changing bits? I'm in two minds whether to stick with a metal plate I can remove easily for ease of changing bits, or to see how things are with the MDF as it is?

Thanks

I slide my spanner under the table, sometimes I need to lower the collet to get proper access. My Elu has a collet lock so I need one spanner and another hand to do it. It's fiddly sometimes but my table is really a table top that sits in my workmate so it's not real chore to flip the whole thing over to get proper access.