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baldkev

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Bald industries is proud to present........
The bladimo system!!! πŸ˜†πŸ€£

Bear with me while i type this.

So to preface this, im using it for 18mm carcases, although as you'll see, it can go to 30mm thickness material if needed.

First i had to fix my bandsaw and then whack out a few baldimos. I chose 20 x 6mm and 30mm length. Firstly because this is a router jig and whilst i dont have a 6mm straight flute, ive ordered a 6mm spiral upcut 🧐

No point going longer than 30mm and having to change depths. This is set up so i can literally put on a new base, clamp the jig, set the plunge depth and im away.

I used pine and oak 20mm stock as ive got loads of offcuts anyway, so just set the bandsaw to about 5.5mm ( ish ) and fire off a few sticks.
I cut them to 28mm, plunge will be 15mm giving glue room hopefully.
 

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baldkev

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Next up the jig. I opted for offcuts of phenolic ply as i had some, it looks a bit more professional than pallet offcuts and one side is slidy ( for the router ) and one side is mildly grippy.
Unfortunately my guide bush doesnt fit my palm router so i got into one making a new router base plate. Annoyingly the guide bush is cheap rubbish and isnt properly centered on its screw positions. I used a holesaw to depth cut the perimeter and router to whack out the material.
I used a 6mm cove bit to plunge through the base and get a perfect centre. I sprayed the face of the base and router to make sure those faces are always the ones used to guarantee i dont screw it up πŸ˜† if the base plate is just a bit out, it wont be centred.

(I used the holesaw next as its got a 6mm pilot ) then drilled it out to 10mm to fit a drill bit through to accurately centre the bush.
 

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baldkev

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Im hungry, quick sandwich

Next i couldn't find a fag packet ( i dont smoke any more ) so i used sandpaper to plot out my guide bush jig sizes. Dead easy. I had a 16mm guide bush and 6mm bit, giving an extra 10mm required in length of slot to achieve my hole size. So i went 30mm long, 16 wide. Now at this point i was considering 'sloppy setting' and decided not to do anything just yet. My home made baldimos can be 19mm or 26mm if i've screwed up πŸ˜†πŸ€£

I screwed 2 bits of scrap together as a fence on the pillar drill ( i have an actual table i made but its hidden under a pile of wood and assorted junk πŸ˜’ )
I set this fence back 29mm so that when i stuck the jig on it, i would be making holes 29mm in, all along the same line.
Oh yeah, ive made 3 matching 600mm long bits of phenolic to put the holes in πŸ™ƒ
But i only want the first holes at 29mm.
That one will have a 2x1 screwed to it to act as the face fence/ jig.

I drilled out the holes, jisaw for the bit in the middle of the 2 holes and a careful file to get the slots perfect, no play but not tight enough to bind.
 

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baldkev

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I then overlayed them and the holes were good. I spun one round to check end for end.... not so cool, minor discrepancy on 2 holes so i put them all in line the original way and sprayed that end red..... i clamped them togther and put the on the bobbin sander to get them clean and take another look. The worse one was nearly a mm. No problem though, here comes sloppy setting!! 😜
I simply put 2 of the jig plates on the bobbin sander and elongated 3 holes so theres definately no binding, but still one tenon locating properly.
 

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baldkev

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The jig with 1 batten is the face jig.
The jig with 2 battens is for 'end grain' or in mdf etc, the 18mm section.

I didnt want to limit myself to just 18mm and occasionally ( especially at jewsons ) an 18mm sheet can be 19mm πŸ˜† so i wanted an element of adjustment. I took the view that the jig is for 18mm, but if i want to, i can do up to 30mm, but, the tenon will always be set at 9mm from the edge. Sure its not perfect, but 18mm is basically what i need. 22mm may be needed at some point, if so, it'll work, it just wont have the tenon centred in the stock.

Theres a 3rd plate with matching holes. This can be used for shelf baldimos.
Same principle, but you just have to line up the centreline on the jig with the centreline of the shelf and clamp it off. Or screw it in and the holes will be covered anyway πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ


I cant test it yet because i ordered the 6mm upcut this morning πŸ€¨πŸ˜’

If festool uk are reading this, im willing to sell you the baldimo system in exchange for some kit!!!! 🀩 i dont yet own any festool.

To diyers, although ive got a workshop with lots of options, this is easily achievable with a palm router, drill, bits, saw etc, it'll just take you longer.

Any questions, please feel free to ask
 

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baldkev

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🀣 i better get a patent application in and copywrite baldimos!

I actually watched peters video of a router domino jig they had cnc'd and it looked like it might be available as a flatpack if numbers were high enough, but i didnt see it on offer anywhere
 
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petermillard

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🀣 i better get a patent application in and copywrite baldimos!

I actually watched peters video of a router domino jig they had cnc'd and it looked like it might be available as a flatpack if numbers were high enough, but i didnt see it on offer anywhere
The final samples have been in the hands of a few folks for a couple of weeks generating valuable feedback, and it has its first public preview in tomorrow’s video. πŸ‘
 

DBT85

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I can appreciate the effort you've gone to Kev, nearly as much as I can appreciate just picking up the domino πŸ˜‚
 

baldkev

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πŸ˜† yeah. The router base was an unwanted extra but it all took about half a day. If when the spiral bit turns up, the jig works like it should, i guess I've got a domino style system for not much. I would still like to get an actual domino to be honest, but if im just using 18mm for carcassing, this should actually be fast and easy. ( fingers crossed )
The baldimos are great, they have small bandsaw ridges which should help with fit and glueup πŸ™ƒ
 

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Stevekane

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I knocked up a simple jig for fitting loose tenons, in effect giant Baldimos(T/m) and it worked very well, however I think a useful aspect of a Domino is that you can operate it flat like a biscuit cutter which could be a bit trying with a router supported by just a guide bush,,,or do you have a fence that the supports the router if used on its side?
Btw my first Domino will be a bootsale purchase,,,so possibly some while away!
Steve
 

baldkev

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I knocked up a simple jig for fitting loose tenons, in effect giant Baldimos(T/m) and it worked very well, however I think a useful aspect of a Domino is that you can operate it flat like a biscuit cutter which could be a bit trying with a router supported by just a guide bush,,,or do you have a fence that the supports the router if used on its side?
Btw my first Domino will be a bootsale purchase,,,so possibly some while away!
Steve
Hi steve, ive got a makita palm router, they are very light and easy to waggle around, so if i did need to use it horizontally, i just have to locate the bush ( as soon as i plunge, the router is being pressed in the right direction ) but i figured most 'end grain' work would be on carcass top and bottom pieces and shelves, which will likely be less than 1200mm, so panels can be machined upright.
My spiral bit arrived today so next week I'll give it a whirl and report backπŸ‘
 

baldkev

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Update time......
Firstly, the mortices are about 6.2mm ( measured with digital calipers ) and the first baldimos measure at 5.55mm πŸ™„πŸ˜” although as a plus, the 10 or so baldimos i measured are all accurate.
But anyway, i remade the baldimos so they are tight.
So i routed out the first set of holes and was happy. I then routed the corresponding ones in the 'end grain' and went for a test fit.
They were snug so that was good, but theres about a 1.5mm discrepancy with the position of the mortices πŸ˜’
I solved this by cheating. I glued 1mm packers to the fence of the first jig as the holes were not 9mm in from the edge to the centre. I guess i wasnt as accurate as i tried to be.

Another thing is dust extraction. I dont use it on my palm router, but the upshot was that the waste was shot up and an amount of it stayed within the jig where the guide bush runs, which meant i had to clear out the slots once first pass was done, then make sure the 2 ends were routed properly ( so i need to set up my hoover and dust port next time )

I used the router horizontally to test that out and because its so light and you are just plunging in, its no different to the biscuit joiner. The upcut bit definitely preferred plunging and not slot cutting.

Long and short though, after an hour of fettling, it works!!

I'd still like a domino though, although that may be because i can never have enough kit πŸ˜†πŸ‘
 

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Jameshow

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kev are you planning on making these available!

Also do you want some dominos I've been given some 10 x50 dominio pieces which we as a men's shed don't have an use ful.

I'll put a for sale up later but should if you want them first.

Cheers James

Ps I realised I've doubled up on the router table so I don't need the one you have sorry again.

Cheers James
 

baldkev

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Hi james,
No worries on the table. This setup probably wont fit 10mm dominos, but thank you for the offer πŸ‘

In terms of production, i dont really have time to, but i kinda posted this to give people inspiration to make a jig if they can't justify a domino.

@petermillard has a collaboration on a router jig kit which would be worth checking out...... maybe peter could post a link to the kit? πŸ‘
 

Bojam

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Looks great Kev!

I built a "Morley Mortiser" jig for loose tenon joinery recently. Bought the plans from Philip Morley's website and adapted the dimensions a bit. Not used it much yet but the test mortises were a decent fit after a bit of calibration.

Below is a photo. You clamp the workpeice vertically to the fence using the matchfit clamps. The router rides on the top panel with a guidebushing installed that fits snugly in the slot. IIRC I cut the slot to accept a 16mm bushing so you can use any bit smaller than this, giving flexibility to the width of the mortise. The top panel slides on a sub-base with build in runners and can be locked at the required position - i.e. setting the slot at a defined distance from the fence. The two plywood stops are to limit the length of the mortise.

Morley_mortiser_jig_build.jpg

Only problem is that I used a peice of hardwood for the top panel and it cups slightly everyday. So I can apparently only do mortising work in the mornings :rolleyes:. Should have been plywood like the rest of the construction but I didn't have any 12 or 15mm offcuts of a suitable size. I used 18mm for the rest of the jig but this is too thick for the top panel because I don't have any long spiral bits so the depth of cut would be too shallow. Will replace with 15mm ply when I get chance.
 

baldkev

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So I can apparently only do mortising work in the mornings :rolleyes:.
πŸ˜†πŸ˜‚

The bit i have is 32mm of spiral, 60mm total length, but because of the router base plus jig thickness, my max plunge with that bit is about 20mm. Thats fine for the 18mm carcasses, but i would need a longer bit to go deeper.


Good point regards the guide bush. I used the one i had ( an odd size, i think it might have been for my trend t4 ) but kinda wish I'd ordered a properly fitting one which would mean i dont need the router base plate. Mind you, i decided to just get on and make it that morning, so proper preparation wasnt going to happen 😁

Good idea to have sliding section underneath to vary mortice position
 

petermillard

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Hi james,
No worries on the table. This setup probably wont fit 10mm dominos, but thank you for the offer πŸ‘

In terms of production, i dont really have time to, but i kinda posted this to give people inspiration to make a jig if they can't justify a domino.

@petermillard has a collaboration on a router jig kit which would be worth checking out...... maybe peter could post a link to the kit? πŸ‘
Not sure I can post a link to the kit without incurring the wrath of the admins (or buying an ad…) but perhaps another member might? πŸ€” Mine’s a CNCd version of the DIY jig I posted about back in May - video here - and afaik it’s the only jig that allows for a narrow and wider slot in the same jig, without re-setting anything or moving a stop. There’s a preview of it in the current YouTube vid, here

First batch of the smaller jig (there are two sizes) is in hand now, I should have them in my Etsy in a couple of weeks or so. πŸ‘
 
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