Dewalt track saw not running parallel to track - Am I doing something wrong?

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Heath Robinson

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I've got a DCS576 track saw, and it's been fantastic for most of the time I've had it. However, it's started cutting curves, to the point that the blade contacts the rail if you push it too far. I assumed it was the fault of the blade so I've changed that for a new one, but 3rd cut with the new blade - same deal. 18mm ply, whole tooth exposed below the sheet but only just, well supported, saw adjusted to grip rail without play, all things as they should be.
I've done a couple of cuts against a big speed square, and it appears to veer off to one side with that too.
Anyone experienced anything like this, or better yet found a solution? I'm a trek away from my repair centre, and I don't want to be without the thing at the moment!
IMG_2362.JPG
 
Is it loose on the rails? have you dropped the saw recently?

Pete
 
Is it loose on the rails? have you dropped the saw recently?

Pete
It's nice and snug on the rails - I adjusted it up when I first noticed it being inconsistent. I've not dropped it, but other people have used it, so that may well be the cause of the fault. I can't see how the shoe would adjust on the saw, but I'll give it another thorough look. It appears to really positively locate onto the saw body.
 
It sounds like the way the blade wants to travel through the material isn’t parallel with the way the saw wants to go along the track by quite a bit. There must be some way to adjust the base of the saw to bring it back cutting parallel with the track.
 
I have a DW Track Saw. The model you've given is not for a track saw, it's for a (nice brushless) cordless circular saw.

The reason it can wander in the cut - as it seems to be doing - is that you're just using that ali guide rail as a guide (not a track, if you see what I mean) - there's nothing, besides your muscles, keeping the saw tight against the guide rail.

I wonder if your blade is blunt?
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, it's giving me a good path to work through the possible causes.

If it is snug on the track then either the blade is flexing or the shaft bearings are shot.
The bearings are perfect with no play at all (this is its third blade, it's pretty new, no dings or abuse), and the blade's a brand new one of the blades it's supplied with. They have cuts to allow a little flex, and are thin kerf obviously, but I've not had this problem to this degree before so something must have changed.

It sounds like the way the blade wants to travel through the material isn’t parallel with the way the saw wants to go along the track by quite a bit. There must be some way to adjust the base of the saw to bring it back cutting parallel with the track.
That was my thought, as it cuts nicely freehand. I'll have a better go at it, but from what I can tell it's really positively located onto the base. I've looked to see if there's a similar thing with the plunge saw, but the way the saw mounts to the base is entirely different.

I have a DW Track Saw. The model you've given is not for a track saw, it's for a (nice brushless) cordless circular saw.

The reason it can wander in the cut - as it seems to be doing - is that you're just using that ali guide rail as a guide (not a track, if you see what I mean) - there's nothing, besides your muscles, keeping the saw tight against the guide rail.

I wonder if your blade is blunt?
The model I have (DCS576) has a dark grey cast aluminium track base exactly like the plunge saw. The 575 is the same saw but on the standard stamped base. It clips on the rail, and has the adjusters etc just like the track saw, and indeed the rail is a part of the package. The blade is brand new, I fitted it at the start of this job. It's done maybe 4 long cuts so far!
 
The bearings are perfect with no play at all (this is its third blade, it's pretty new, no dings or abuse), and the blade's a brand new one of the blades it's supplied with. They have cuts to allow a little flex, and are thin kerf obviously, but I've not had this problem to this degree before so something must have changed.

That cut looks bloody awful, personally if that’s happening with a new blade on a pretty new saw I’d be getting in touch with DeWalt, send them your photo & see what they say
 
After reading responses from the OP, It strikes me that the next thing to check is the the blade is perfectly in line with the guide slot in the base.
 
That cut looks bloody awful, personally if that’s happening with a new blade on a pretty new saw I’d be getting in touch with DeWalt, send them your photo & see what they say
Yeah - I'd normally expect to do significantly better than than freehand!
 
Quick update - Fixed it. Upon closer inspection, the rear shoe-to-saw fixings allow a little movement. The front end of the saw's extremely positively affixed, but the back end can give a bit of a wiggle. It had definitely been dropped by someone (grrrrr....) as the blade was about 1.3mm out front to back. For posterity, and probably future me when I need to adjust it again, the method I used is as follows - I popped it on the guide rail, did the slack adjusters up a little too tight, and then measured to the rail from the same tooth on the blade at both the front and back with some verniers. Obviously you need to do this a few times, as when you make an adjustment, the pivot point is in front of the blade, so both measurements change.
Runs absolutely perfectly now, both on its track and against a speed square.
 
when I learnt to cut up ply by the pile it was in California.....they use it a lot there.....we'd often cut 5 sheets at a time with a sidewinder saw......always wanted one of them.....mmmmm......screaming blades.....hahaha....
I have a dedicated 3/4" x12"W x 8foot L strip of MDF that I use as a guide.....square it off and a couple of clamps....
sounds a fag but for me it's real quick.....
I did buy a short and long(5ft I think, self lock on parallels) whilst I was there.....prob copied now but have never looked....
these are great for 4' cuts or smaller.....again check with square and off u go....now just thinking they must be 45 years old.....phew, where did that time go......!!!!!

never fancied these modern track effort, esp the price.....

My fav circ saw for cutting ply is a very old Wolf....blade is at the edge of the base and no hanging metal thingy underneath.....the blade guard works as per normal tho.....
I never let anyone else use this saw.....but the job can be done just as well with a small Hitachi saw, also bought just for this job and inexperienced helpers....
sorry off topic but in the same vain....
I made packing crates for my move.....all used the 8x4 sized sheets.....over 100 sheets of ply used 50-50 ..1/2 n 3/4......
doubled high on an artic, the top crates had to be 6" lower.....hence the sheet cutting...
dread to think on how many drywall screws used......hahaha....u can see box no 18 and there was many more....hahaha...
didn't mean to hi-jack the thread.....sorry....

needed more room...big shed 11mx 7.5m.....

IMG_0068.jpeg
 
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