DeWalt Table FLip saw smoke & troubles !

[Andyb350z]

Hi Everyone, just joined the forum, im new to wood working, always enjoyed doing round the house DIY and building stuff but i would like to get a little more involved in the fine art.

I have a dewalt dw743n flip saw, however when i want to rip wood sheets into lengths, i seem to fill the garage with smoke to the point i have to hit stop and leave till it clears. The saw also seems to struggle a bit when pushing wood through, a 2metre rib of hard board can take 5mins+ yet on the youtube videos people seem to throw them through in 10 seconds !

Before i head off and buy a new blade, can anyone advise me where im going wrong, or if infact it is jsut the blade ?

Can anyone reccomend what spec blade i would be best buying, with it been a flip saw obviosuly i want to use it for all types of cutting / ripping, mainly pine, timber etc ?

Kindest regards
Andy

 

[carlb40]

Does indeed sound like you need a new blade. Well at least 2 - one for rip. One for cross cutting as a mitre saw.

 

[Andyb350z]

Thanks for the quick reply, very much appreciated

Would you reccomend buying a Dewalt blade, as i have seen some CraftPro blades on Ebay for 19.99, where the dewalt ones are nearly £50, is there going to be much difference in quality do you know ?

 

[Mar_mite]

Is the blade in the right way round? Craft pro blades ore ok, I use them in my plunge saw. £13, can't go wrong.

 

[carlb40]

There will be a difference. Better blades cut better/ smoother. I normally try to use freud blades. Good quality at reasonable prices

 

[srp]

Phone Doug at Cutting Solutions 01353 968711 (www.cutting-solutions.co.uk ). That way he'll be able to recommend the right blades for what you're doing. The blades I have bought from him have been very cheap and excellent quality.

 

[AES]

Andyb350z, welcome to the Forum.

Please don't take this the wrong way but your problem sounds like exactly the same as I had (I'm very much a beginner).

Following advice on this Forum I bought some new baldes and fitted the first one the wrong way round!!! - i.e. the back of each tooth was hitting the workpiece first, rather than the front of each tooth. I filled the shop with dense smoke and the blade hardly cut at all. Turned round the proper way (so that the front of each tooth hit the job first) all problems magically disappeared :lol:

(In my defence the SCMS I was using was the only tool with a circular blade that I've ever seen without an rotation arrow cast into the guard).

The many helpful members of this Forum soon put me right so I wonder if you've inadvertently got your blade the wrong way round too?

HTH

AES

 

[marcros]

Phone Doug at Cutting Solutions 01353 968711 (http://www.cutting-solutions.co.uk ). That way he'll be able to recommend the right blades for what you're doing. The blades I have bought from him have been very cheap and excellent quality.

+1

 

[Andyb350z]

Thanks Guys, really appreciate all the help, AES you made me laugh, saw blades tend to come with arrows showing the rotation of the blade, anyways, i have done plenty wood work in the past, but not such precise stuff, i have done construction round the house, building door frames, walls, built plant boxes etc, but im looking and getting into more the finer art side of things, like mastering the scroll saw etc, i want to design and build my own guitar speaker cabinets but have a amazing wood finish. im a designer by trade and looking at all other manufacturers speaker cabs, there just cheap mdf, hardboard and coated in a PU leather effect, i want to do something spectacular ! I have a few more questions, well...... i have hundreds, but i will start a new thread if i cant find it already in existence on the forum.

Thanks again everyone, perfect !

 

[AES]

Glad I made you laugh Andy. Yes, saw blades do have arrows on them, but if the machine doesnt (and if like me you're not paying attention when fitting a blade - AND if you're a beginner - also like me) then such things can and do happen! I was silly enough to do it, for one. Anyway I'm glad it made you laugh but sorry it didn't solve your problem.

AES

 

[Myfordman]

Are you guiding the timber through against the fence?
If so and the fence is not parallel to the blade then it could well rub and cause the smoke that you are seeing

I'm guessing that the saw table is quite small. Supporting the work with an extended infeed and outfeed table could well make the job easier too

 

[dickm]

Assuming the saw is the deWalt version of the old Elu flipsaw, it sounds very much like a blunt blade. It should rip/cross cut amazingly quietly and without fuss or smoke of any sort.
You don't really want to have dedicated rip and cross cut blades for the beast, or you'll be forever swapping over when you flip the saw. Well worth asking Doug of cutting solutions for advice about a good compromise blade. No idea what the blade on mine is, as it came with the (secondhand) machine, but it does both very happily.

 

[Grit_monkey]

I have a dewalt dw743n flip saw, however when i want to rip wood sheets into lengths, i seem to fill the garage with smoke to the point i have to hit stop and leave till it clears. The saw also seems to struggle a bit when pushing wood through, a 2metre rib of hard board can take 5mins+ yet on the youtube videos people seem to throw them through in 10 seconds !

I have the 742, no different to yours other than the trigger on the handle. As someone further upthread has suggested, and I know it does sound bizarre, but if you're taking 5+ minutes to rip a sheet of hardboard then the liklehood is that the blade is on the wrong way round! Also check the fence is parallel to the blade using the grub screw on the fence clamp.

Before i head off and buy a new blade, can anyone advise me where im going wrong, or if infact it is jsut the blade ?

Can anyone reccomend what spec blade i would be best buying, with it been a flip saw obviosuly i want to use it for all types of cutting / ripping, mainly pine, timber etc ?

Again, as another poster above says, I would go for Freud, best blade I've had in my machine.

Kindest regards
Andy[/quote]

 

[Andyb350z]

Sounds like were in the same boat ! I have orderd a new blade with the teeth designed for ripping rather than cross cutting, however it does say it can do both, to be honest i didnt know there were blades more suited to either type of cut.

I will install it and let you know how it goes !

 

[flh801978]

I bought a bandsaw off ebay a while ago off a chap who was all bluster that he was an expert in all things tools and machine wise.
He mentioned in the listing that it did need a new blade.
When i went to collect it again he was singing his prowess as a woodworker and machine expert.
he switched the bandsaw on and procceeded to try to cut a small length of pine 20mm thick
through the noise of the cut and by now gathering of smoke from the blade he coughed "yes I told you it needed a new blade"
I looked at the blade ,noticed it was the wrong way round and just nodded sagely " yes i think you are right"

on my return turned the blade round and used that blade for ages before it was worn out

But back to original poster if it takes 5 mins to cut some hardboard your blade is either the wrong way round or seriously s******d

Ian

 

[billybuntus]

You could always have your blade sharpened. I have a local small firm who do blades for around £4-5 unless it needs any new teeth (they have to be missing pretty much to warrant this) which are a £1 a tooth. They weld the new teeth on and grind them down.