DeWalt DW125 Radial Arm Saw Disassembly

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KevinWebb

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Hi, I need to remove the top arm casing from my DW125 to repair the cable support and access the nut on the arm clamp.
Other than the end cap for the arm it appears I just need to remove the elevating handle before I can remove the top arm casing. But I'm not sure how to remove the elevating arm. The diagram shows it is held on by a roll pin so I assume I need to drift out the pin, but there's only a hole on one side of the elevating handle; so if I put a drift in the hole and hit it hard enough to dislodge the pin where does the pin go? I imagine there's enough space inside the elevator handle casting for the pin to drop out but I can't see inside the handle to be sure.
I suppose I'm looking for some reassurance before I take a hammer to my ras. Has anyone removed the elevating handle from this model?
Thanks.
 
KevinWebb":f0ovqbo9 said:
Hi, I need to remove the top arm casing from my DW125 to repair the cable support and access the nut on the arm clamp.
Other than the end cap for the arm it appears I just need to remove the elevating handle before I can remove the top arm casing. But I'm not sure how to remove the elevating arm. The diagram shows it is held on by a roll pin so I assume I need to drift out the pin, but there's only a hole on one side of the elevating handle; so if I put a drift in the hole and hit it hard enough to dislodge the pin where does the pin go? I imagine there's enough space inside the elevator handle casting for the pin to drop out but I can't see inside the handle to be sure.
I suppose I'm looking for some reassurance before I take a hammer to my ras. Has anyone removed the elevating handle from this model?
Thanks.

Hi Kevin, from memory just go ahead and knock the rolled pin into the crank handle. It may of course fall into the column but I think there is a recess (or at least enough space) in the handle for the pin to sit and be retrieved once the handle is lifted off.
 
Thanks for your help, Noel. It was as you said. The handle casting contains a channel to guide the roll pin as you insert it but the majority of the casting is hollow, so the pin drops in to the void when it's drifted out.
Problem solved and and I'm happy.
This machine belonged to my father and has been in my loft for 15 years. Have now completed the reassembly and it's working pretty much like new. I look forward to making good use of it over the new few years.
Cheers.
 
I've got exactly this problem! I thought it needed a hex key and have been trying for two days but nothing would fit, now I know why. I too am restoring Powershop inherited from my late father.
 
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