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Deck Laying Advice

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Waka

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Morning All

I'm planning on laying a deck around the conservatory (design stage at the moment).
A large portion on the deck will lay on top of an existing patio (concrete) with a portion suspended over the garden. I don't really have a problem with the suspended part of the job, but need some advice on the part going over the existing patio.

The distance I have between the base of the patio to the bottom cill odf the patio is 4", therefore I think I would need to lay 2" joists. What is the best way to secure these joist to the existing patio, or could they be floating?

If this is not floating would a nail gun be able to do the job, if so what type?

Also should I use stainless screws or galvanised nails to hold down the deck boards?

If the recommendation is nails what type of nail gun would I need?

Thanks

Waka
 

Midnight

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Waka....
It's been a loooooooooong time since I did this kinda stuff for a living; forgive me if I'm rusty...
Personally I'd anchor the studs using 3-4 shield anchors per stud, depending on their length.
For anchors, I'd use something like this..
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 8&id=13317

If you pre-drill the studs smaller than the bolt shank, you can use that as an accurate guide to mark the hole centres in the concrete; the stud will help prevent the drill bit from wandering. An undersized pilot hole will accurately guide a larger drill when drilling to final size.

As for deck fixings, personally I'd use stainless screws every time. A little OTT maybe, but this isn't the kinda thing you want to be trying to do rework on. Best to get it right the first time...

BTW.. be carefull which stock you use.. some of that pressure treated stuff has some nasty chemicals in it... definately not the kinda thing you want to be breathing in.....
 

SimonA

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Just a quick question, if there is only 4" between the patio and your cill where abouts is you DPC? You need to keep your decking below your DPC if you can't then you need to space the decking away from the wall so its not touching it.

SimonA
 

Waka

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SimonA

The decking will just go up to the cill, this will give a 2" clearence between decking and conservatory foundations.

Waka
 

CYC

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Midnight, can you tell us more about the bad pressure treated timber, which one is good enough?
 

Midnight

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CYC..
I'm sorry bud.. I can't recall if the treatment used back then used either arsenic or cyanide in the process... either way, a fair bit of the stuff was left in the wood..
I'm almost 20 years behind how things have changed re EEC regs for timber preservation, I'd be starting over from scratch looking for something safe to use.
Bottom line would be to ask for a COSH sheet on the preservatives from the lumber supplier; if they can't or won't supply one, walk away..
 

Rattie

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Here Waka, cop a load of this:

http://www.pbase.com/rattus/decking&page=all

This was a recent project and is going down a treat in this lovely - if changeable weather.

The frame is 6x2, but jointed with Fastenmaster TimberLok landscaping screws and noggined with 90mm galvanised ring shank nails (using our scary frame nailer).

The deck boards are all full length, and held on with the decking screws that Fastenmaster make. These are double or triple coated with a square drive head. These take alot of the slog out of the boarding, as does making a jig to get the holes right - see the gallery link above.

I wouldn't use a nailer for the boards, as you might want to lift one or more of them later.

BTW the frame is set partly on the existing crappy patio (8 slab's, none level) and partly on half breeze blocks set on sharp sand in holes dug into the garden. Dug holes, tamped the soil, sand then block. 95% as stable as concreting, but you can lift them real easy later.

The frame had to be rebated and dadoed to sit on the existing patio step, where I used plastic packers to spread the load without causing wicking of moisture into the members.

If you want any more tips, let me know.

Oh and another thing, the Panasonic Drill Drivers rock!! NiMH batteries and superb gearboxes.

Martyn
 

CYC

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Nice Job Martyn, I think I won't be long to follow your steps :wink:

Any advice on the timber you used, any comments on the chemical issue raised by Midnight?
 

Waka

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Martyn

Thanks for the info. Must say the start to finish photos are great, how long did it takes you to put together?

Also what is the wood you have used?

I have sent off a drawing to a company called Booker Timber for some material quotes, has anybody used these guys in the past?

Nice job, hope mine turns out as good.

Waka
 

Rattie

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Timber was Tanalised stuff from Ridgeons. That way I could pick out my timbers to get the best fit I could. Their prices were very competative too.

For use and handling see:

http://www.tanalith-e.com/downloads/Con ... n-TanE.pdf

We reckon it took about 12 hours to make the frame, largely due to the fiddliness of our step, and the need to roll it in and out of position.

The decking boards then took about 12 hours to lay, fettle and treat.

There is a drain access cover under the deck, so I made a removable panel, which is visualy hidden save for two parallel cuts in 3 deck planks. This meant reinforcing the frame around this hatch, adding to the time taken.

For the frame we used a DW711 mitre saw to cut the members, which proved somewhat lacking in the cut size, requiring the member to be flipped and the cut finished from the reverse side (grrr). Since this deck is actually phase 1 of 3, the others each rising 7" from the last and following round the corner of the house, we have taken the step of buying an Elektra Beckum KGS 303. Since the girlfriend had to help me flip the members over, it was an easy purchase to agree.

Since the boards are all full length, the finishing just involved running a skilsaw down the edge, guided by the straightest spare board clamped to the deck.

I've since used some of the off cuts to make a throne for a mate. I'll post more pictures of that.

Martyn
 

llangatwgnedd

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Hi Waka Few pictures and ideas on the decking I laid last year

First of all I done the base with concrete joists and chippings for drainage
http://premium.uploadit.org/Llangatwgnedd/Dscf0063.jpg

I over shot with the joist on the next pic as I decided to extend the right hand decking after laying the left hand one
http://premium.uploadit.org/Llangatwgnedd/Dscf0064.jpg

On the joists against the wall I used mini joist hangers from Screwfix
as it wold have been difficult to nail


http://premium.uploadit.org/Llangatwgnedd/Dscf0065.jpg


All cut ends were treated with end seal
http://premium.uploadit.org/Llangatwgnedd/Dscf0068.jpg

And the finished result with one coat of Liberon clear decking oil

http://premium.uploadit.org/Llangatwgnedd/Dscf0072.jpg

http://premium.uploadit.org/Llangatwgnedd/Dscf0073.jpg

Oh and think about running cables for electric before laying the boards

http://premium.uploadit.org/Llangatwgnedd/Dscf0075.jpg

H,mm got to do something to brighten up the out side of the workshop

http://premium.uploadit.org/Llangatwgnedd/Dscf0080.jpg

Mini hangershttp://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/64/p1576364_x.jpg

Decking oil clear
http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=DO25LC

Decking and joists (For South Waliens)
http://www.dgheath.co.uk/dg_home.html
 

Chris Knight

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SP,
You have probably shown that before but I have missed it. It is a great deck, you must be very pleased with the outcome. The pictures of the construction show that it should last for a heck of a long time.
 

cambournepete

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Rattie":3flibm9r said:
...The frame is 6x2, but jointed with Fastenmaster TimberLok landscaping screws and noggined with 90mm galvanised ring shank nails (using our scary frame nailer)...
Looks good :D .

What do you think of the timberloks? Do you need to drill pilot holes for them?

As I live near Cambridge I was also going to use Ridgeons.

Pete
 

Waka

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All

Thanks for the good advose and pic's, I can see I've got something to aspire too.

Went and bought the decking material last Friday, nearly fainted when he told me how much it was, still no pockets in a shroud.

I'll let youknow oe I get on, should start the preparation and laying in about 10 days.

Waka.
 

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