Danish oil on garden fence

[Andrew1]

Hi I have had a new garden fence, circa 100m’s long by 1.8m’s high. Fence is concrete post and concrete gravel board, at 2.2m interval. In between is fence rail with 150 x 22mm boarding with 5mm gap on wet day and 8mm gap in the summer. Board is not feather edge I like the look of the pressure treated timber, so have no desire to creosote, paint or stain.
My real question to aid longevity would I get any benefit from danish oiling the fence or some other alternative
Fence has been in 2 years now.

 

[Mike Jordan]

Generally speaking if you don't want to change the appearance of the fence, it's a total waste of money using any type of coating in the hope of making it last longer.
The decay when it arrives will normally occur in the joint between the boards and rails. The water hangs in the joint for long periods before drying out. It's not an area that any type of so called protection coatings can get to, so its a futile waste of time applying anything. Treated timber is the answer and you seem to have it! The best answer is to hang onto the cash against the cost of replacing the fence in the fullness of time.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I used D.O. - which is supposed to be OK for exterior - last autumn on a bench and some bird boxes. Four or five coats and it's already gone through. As Mike said, leave it alone. The only possible thing you can do to prolong its life is get some clear preservative on any cut ends you can reach.

 

[Jasper42]

You could use NO NONSENSE WOOD TREATMENT CLEAR from screwfix, not used it but read the reviews while looking for something else. Does not look to affect the colour very much.

Austin

 

[Mike Jordan]

For a 100 metre fence that's ten tins costing £200 in total plus the time to apply it.
And I still guarantee no result!

 

[Jdfisme]

Generally speaking if you don't want to change the appearance of the fence, it's a total waste of money using any type of coating in the hope of making it last longer.
The decay when it arrives will normally occur in the joint between the boards and rails. The water hangs in the joint for long periods before drying out. It's not an area that any type of so called protection coatings can get to, so its a futile waste of time applying anything. Treated timber is the answer and you seem to have it! The best answer is to hang onto the cash against the cost of replacing the fence in the fullness of time.

 

[Richard_C]

I have a very long 6ft high featherboard and rail garden fence, it was 10 years old when I moved here. Better put something on it, I thought. Maybe next summer. 26 years on, still not got round to it and it's still fine. Had to replace a few wooden posts along the way. Neglect and inertia works fine