Damascus Steel - Dictum Tools

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bedrock

Established Member
Joined
12 Feb 2014
Messages
286
Reaction score
2
Location
Hampshire
Whilst browsing aimlessly, when I should have been working, I came across these steels in the Materials section of the web site. Apart from the fact that they look absolutely gorgeous ( try the magnification button), has anyone tried them for say plane blades, or are they only useful for knife blades?
They are only available in 38mm width, but could be used for smaller planes.
Perhaps I need to calm down.
Mike
 
Bedrock":1yolyvuf said:
Whilst browsing aimlessly, when I should have been working, I came across these steels in the Materials section of the web site. Apart from the fact that they look absolutely gorgeous ( try the magnification button), has anyone tried them for say plane blades, or are they only useful for knife blades?
They are only available in 38mm width, but could be used for smaller planes.
Perhaps I need to calm down.
Mike

The uneven consistency makes for toothiness when sharpened, which is great for many knife-ish and slicing purposes, but far less desirable in a pushed blade (e.g. plane, chisel or razor).

BugBear
 
Hi Mike

You are certainly correct...Damascus steel is beautiful to look at but there is Damascus and there is Damascus...and the poor billets are not very good.

Rutlands were having a sale on their "Damascus" knives...I can't remember how much but it was about 50%.

I bought a small utility knife for the kitchen as the plan was to take off the scales and replace them with a nice wood....

20140804_201359.jpg


As you can see...I was less than impressed...it's almost impossible to even see let alone photograph...

20140804_201541.jpg


I should have known...the first and only other thing I bought from them was rubbish too...but I do intend to finish this off one day with that little leftover orphan of cocobolo but I'm saving the large block of bog oak for one which is a bit better quality.

My mistake is buying stainless..I should have bought a traditional carbon steel billet and make it myself...just being lazy!

Konrad's new Damascus smoother is however...at the OTHER end of the quality spectrum!! :shock: 8)

Incidentally..the cocobolo handle I made (yes by hand!)...for a Holtzapffel chisel...

20140804_201756.jpg


...has matured as predicted from the newly cut version...

DSC_0109.JPG


It's this transformation that is UV stimulated...which makes you SURE it really is in the rosewood family! :mrgreen:

Jimi
 
Traditionally the Japanese used pieces of old anchor chains with a lump of HC steel. The more laminations (folds) the better.
I saw a programme where a blacksmith was making a medieval sword - he laminated it several times then twisted it like a barley twist before hammering flat.

Rod
 
Harbo":3aoroqyx said:
Traditionally the Japanese used pieces of old anchor chains with a lump of HC steel. The more laminations (folds) the better.
I saw a programme where a blacksmith was making a medieval sword - he laminated it several times then twisted it like a barley twist before hammering flat.

Rod

Thought so...and the more twists and layers the more expensive it is.

Jimi
 
A mitre plane this time

http://www.sydnassloot.com/bbuckner/Damascus.htm

He also states that it must be etched to see the pattern :?

Maybe the problem is :

From wiki so possibly written by someone who knows even less than I do (is that even possible ?).

The original method of producing Damascus steel is not known. Because of differences in raw materials and manufacturing techniques, modern attempts to duplicate the metal have not been entirely successful.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damascus_steel
 
I have a blacksmith friend who makes it, and uses all manner of things to laminate (old files are a favourite) - I saw a stunning one of 01 and a chainsaw chain. One way of forming a pattern is to drill holes at fixed intervals that then close up when the steel is hammered. He always uses an even number of layers and marks top and bottom of each layer (to avoid two identical layers coming together) then tacks two layers on the ends with an arc welder. As the billet is stretched end to end it is cut and the process is repeated. The ends are discarded when finished. This avoids the hassle of folding it (especially along the spine) but of course there is no "bookmatching" when finished as there will be to different layers on the outsides. I made one, but I only got up to 48 layers - there's no point in going beyond 256 (according to him) as after that the pattern gets to small see.
 
jimi43":8a6gv2xy said:
Real Damascus steel is folded and layered with different steel hardness isn't it?

Well … depends on what you mean by 'real' …

The original 'Damascus' steel, from around 800 - 1600, appears to have been a high carbon (~2%) steel, with high quantities of vanadium. This is generally today called 'Wootz'. The texture that was it's trademark arose from the precipitated carbides. It was a crucible steel, and just the fact alone made is superior to other forms of steel at the time - although the presence of the vanadium certainty helped too. In working, it needed a longer soak at temperature to re-dissolve more of the precipitates, before forging. At least: probably - there's a fair bit of uncertaintly, mostly due to the few pieces of 'original' Damascus steel being historically very valuable, and there's a limit to what can be done with non-destructive testing.

It is very likely that the 'serpent in the steel' from the Viking Saga's refers to that sort of material.

Fast forward to today, and what is sold as 'Damascus' steel is usually pattern welded - that's the folding and layering process. Pattern welding like that was, historically, mostly done by the Japanese sword smiths, although they tended _not_ to use different steels, instead using it as a (vary) labour intensive method for refining steels [0].

The different colours in the steel are not very visible inherence (either the older high carbon, or modern pattern welded) - the colours are developed by an acid etch, and it is the different responses of the steels to the etch that give rise to the visible patterns.

Hence, to get strong contrast, you select steels with very different responses to etching. There's some general rules - the higher the carbon, the darker. Nickel as an alloying element is more resistant to acid, so a high nickel steel will remain smother and shinier. Molybenum … etches in a different way the escapes me at the moment.

You also need to consider the end use case - if you want a cutting edge, you need some medium to high carbon steel in there (high for knives, medium for an axe). Hence generally speaking two steels are used, one for the cutting edge, and high carbon, and the other is picked for contrast. Low carbon, high nickel (and normally a touch of chromium) is the 'ideal', but if you wanted a 'proper' cutting edge, at the expense of weaker contrast, there's no reason you couldn't use a high nickel, high carbon steel.

Well, except one reason: £££££££. The only commonly available steel that I can think of that would match that would be 440C. Which is a stainless steel, and that's going to be 'a bit spendy'. Not least because forge welding stainless and non-stainless is not a guaranteed success. And it'll leach chromium during forging, which has it's own issues.

Still, there's no reason that it _has_ to be different carbon levels (which translates to different hardnesses) - they could be matched to given similar hardness and wear, if you can afford to use more 'exotic' [1] materials. That would give a blade with a more even cutting edge, which would somewhat address the point Bugbear made. Not perfectly though - and almost certainly not worth it. I can't see it being any better than an O1 steel blade at best, probably a little worse in general.

I've always wondered what would happen if you tried a 'weathering steel', like cor-ten (contains, among other things, copper) in a pattern weld. Might just fall apart, but I suspect that it would be interesting…


As an aside: the knife pictured above is almost certainly made of stainless steel, right? That's why there's very little contrast in the etched region - stainless steels tend not show much response to an etch, so even though they've used different steels (probably 440 and 440C, if I had to pick some numbers out of nowhere), the etch response is pretty similar.

[0] Western steels of the time were actually of a 'better quality' with less work - Japan's native ores would have been called 'poor quality' (high in sulpher and silicon) in the west, and not used for such demanding applications. Still, it was all they had; hence the labour intensive processing.

[1] Not necessarily that exotic, but less commonly used in blacksmithing.
 
Hi Mike,
Probably you know some blacksmiths who make blade blanks? Some time ago I've ordered 2 thin strips of damascus as a blanks for future marking knives. But for less spending I've ordered laminated blades, as Japanese Kanna's blades have done. Very thin strip of damascus steel was welded by blacksmith to a strip of ordinary tools steel (D2, for example).
As a result I have two nice blanks where damascus strip is for a beauty (not hard steel) and strip of ordinary tools steel is for work (hardened up to Rc 60).

In any cases such laminated blanks are cheaper than full damascus blank.

Regards,
Serge.
 
Back
Top