Dado Sets

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pgrbff

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I have a Startrite 175. I'm aware that they are far less popular in the UK but I often feel having one would be useful.
I appreciate problems with guarding and the blade stopping quickly enough, but is there any reason one would not work on the 175? Or that it would render the machine less safe than it is with a sawblade?
 
Never seen a startrite saw so dont know if a dado stack can be fitted. The threaded part of the arbor needs to be 25mm to take a dado. For saws that dont have the arbor length there are trenching blades (thick kerf) that will take a 6mm cut so you just need to take more passes at it. In a lot of ways they are better than a dado because you avoid all the fiddle of setting up a stack of blades with shims to get the exact width you are after.
Regards
John
 
Never seen a startrite saw so dont know if a dado stack can be fitted. The threaded part of the arbor needs to be 25mm to take a dado. For saws that dont have the arbor length there are trenching blades (thick kerf) that will take a 6mm cut so you just need to take more passes at it. In a lot of ways they are better than a dado because you avoid all the fiddle of setting up a stack of blades with shims to get the exact width you are after.
Regards
John
I've been trying to find a wide flat ground blade with no luck so far.
 
I found the Saxton blades, I have heard of Saxton but have never used them. They are very inexpensive.
I also found the CMT grooving blades but I'm unsure in which type of machine they would normally be used? I'm guessing not in a saw table?
They also have 30 and 35mm arbor holes and at 6mm thick I'm not sure if using 3 2mm reduction rings would be safe?
I don't have the training or experience to know if the CMT grooving blades would be safe.
 
Many users of this forum swear by Saxton blades, I am also happy with the one that I have. As for CMT grooving blade, it is also being used in circular saws by a few with no issues reported. Can't say anything about the use of reducing rings regarding safety as I never went on this path. You may check how much of your blade arbour is sticking out in your current setup. If you have a decent amount left dado blades can still be fitted - not necessarily full stack.
 
The two large washers on either side of the blade are quite thick on the Startrite. If I could use thinner support rings I could probably get part of a dado set on. I'm only looking for a flat tooth grind really, 6-10mm would be more than enough. Otherwise, there isn't that much room for a dado set.
There are plenty of FTG blades, for rip mostly, available in the US. Maybe I have to try the more specialist suppliers.
The CMT would be ideal if it were safe. I cant see why using multiple reducing rings would be a problem but I'm not an engineer.
 
By the very nature of that type of grind, they perform much better on rip cuts. Crosscuts need bevelled edges that provide cutting action. In the US you can get ATBR combination blades - ATB+FTG tooth to clear the centre of the cut, but kerf remains relatively small. Just a thought - router would not be a better option for you? You can get all diameters you need and combined with a straight edge it will provide good results.
 
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