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Cutting a semicircle in mild steel

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Jimmy Thomson

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Hi all,

I'm trying to fashion a rear lifting eye to remove the 300tdi from my Discovery 1. I've never done any metalwork. Thus far, I've taken a 4mm mild steel bar and bent it at a right-angle using a vice, then drilled in a couple of holes:

IMG_20190824_172048248.jpg


I now need to shape a semi circle around the lower of the holes in the above photo, so that if can fit in to the circular section where the highlighted cylinder head bolt goes (this will be used to clamp the lifting eye to the engine):

IMG_20190824_172103258.jpg


I don't have a massive amount of metalworking tools. I was thinking of taking a socket of the appropriate size and using this to scribe a semicircle on to the mild steel around the lower hole. I'm then thinking of using angle grider to cut roughly around the semicircle, then take the remainder off with a file. Does this sound like a reasonable plan? Any other suggestions much appreciated.

Jimmy.
 

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Hlsmith

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Scribe the lone as you suggest then use a flap disk for metal the remove material back to the line
The flap disk are so aggressive you don't need to worry about a cutting disk
 

TFrench

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Sounds like the way I'd do it. I use a 1mm slitting disc to cut the bulk off and tidy up with a flap disc. Daft to waste a flap disc turning metal into dust when you can cut it off in one lump.

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Gerry

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Firtst, I presume that the engine either is having the head gasket replaced or it is not going back in as removing and then replacing headbolt is a big "no no".
Diesels are very heavy and usually a engine lifting eye is made from very stout material i.e 4mm plus thick.
I would just use some rope as lifting straps around the engine.

Gerry
 

topchippytom

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Cut a patten in cardboard so you have the correct shape will help to bend the metal as required
 

Jimmy Thomson

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Thanks for the advice. I think I'll use a cutting disc to take as much off as I feel comfortable with, and then flap disc from there.

Good idea with the cardboard template.

The metal I'm using is 4mm so should be fine (I hope). Removing one cylinder head bolt is apparently the recommended approach and I've read many accounts of it working nicely with no adverse impact. However, this engine will be rebuilt so it's not an issue. It'll be going in to a Defender where there'll be room for the proper lifting eye on the rear. Shame there's not the room at the back of the Disco to get the lifting eye on...........which actually makes me wonder whether I could just cut a bit out of the bulkhead to use to proper lifting eye....hmmm.....will check that out now.

Jimmy.
 

Lazurus

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I dont think I would try lifting an engine by a single bolt, there should be dedicated liting points, also that steel looks too thin to support the weight with a bend in it - chains and lifting strops much safer IMO.
 

Jimmy Thomson

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Problem solved. I managed to get my hands behind the engine just enough to be able to attach the proper rear lifting eye. The front one was already on. Hopefully shouldn't have any problems now.

Lazurus - going to order a 2 leg lifting chain set tomorrow. I watched a nasty video of a rope snapping and the engine landing on someone's arm. Not keen on the same happening to me so playing it safe.
 

sunnybob

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any chain, rope, or lifting eye will be sold with the SWL number (Safe Weight Lift)
find the weight of the item to be lifted, and give yourself at least a 50% safety margin, and the object will never fall.
 

Eric The Viking

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Join the Land Rover owners' club. I did (had a 200 TDi conversion in my Defender - was really nice). There's quite a lot in their magazine, and oodles on YouTube, etc. about major engine work.

Also work backwards from the end of the process: Are there any things whose positions you need to mark for reassembly? Take pictures of stuff that looks awkward. How will you support the engine after lifting it? I mean where will you put it? Make sure the destination workbench is strong and safe enough, and that you can get at the sump, etc. as needed. If there is an aircon, can you get the system degassed rather than just waste the refrigerant to the environment?

Obviously, if you drain the sump first, you're not lifting the oil, likewise I'd remove other things that don't need to be on the engine before you lift it, such as manifolds, possibly, and/or turbo and alternator. It also gives you better clearance inside the bay.
 
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