Curved glazing beads

[Stormer1940]

Hi,
I have a semi circular headed frame to make in the next couple of weeks. In the frame will sit a set of french doors. I have no problem machining the larger parts but I will need to make some glazing beads up approx size 15mm x 15mm with an ovolo moulding. The beads will need to be made from sapele the same as the frame and door.

Has anyone any tips on machining this up using the spindle moulder and ring fence. Jig designs would be handy to.

Cheers

 

[deema]

Machine from thick stock straight, cut to size and then steam bend around a former.

 

[Graham Orm]

Try just soaking for an hour if you can't steam it.

 

[Jacob]

If you go the solid machining ring fence way the problem is keeping your fingers safe.
There are two approaches: mount the sawn/shaped pieces on a board which you handle safely from further back, or machine directly on to the edge of a shaped board and then band saw off the moulding. See Stephenson.

 

[Stormer1940]

Thanks for the replies

I assume "Stephenson" means the the author of the Spindle Moulder Handbook?

Can you try and explain this a little more " or machine directly on to the edge of a shaped board and then band saw off the moulding."

I might be missing something but at the moment still not 100% comprehending what you mean.

Cheers

 

[Jacob]

Shape the edge of a 15mm board to the profile you want then mould the edge with the spindle, then saw off 15mm of the edge with a bandsaw.

 

[Stormer1940]

Then clean the face up via sanding or with a spoke shave?

 

[Jacob]

Then clean the face up via sanding or with a spoke shave?

Hmm dunno about spokeshave your stuff is a bit small and if done in the solid will have a lot of cross grain. Try it though.
Better could be bobbin sander - you can get a foam drum sander to fit on a drill in a drill stand. Works really well.
This sort of thing
A useful trick is to have it over a very thick baseboard but set in to a full depth recess so you can raise or lower it to use the whole surface, with the board as table.

 

[Stormer1940]

Cheers, didn't think about the cross grain issue

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Then clean the face up via sanding or with a spoke shave?

It's a glazing bead. If your bandsaw is sharp, you should get away with not sanding at all - once the bead is in place, the cut edge will not be seen.

 

[Stormer1940]

I forgot to mention that the finish on the project will be osmo uv clear finish so no room for error and filler cover up. I see what you are getting at though.

 

[Berncarpenter]

If you are worried about the beads breaking on the short cross grain. You could cut thin strips say 2mm /3mm thick ,steam each strip [i use an old kettle with a zip tie to hold the switch on and hold the strip in the steam until it becomes flexible] and bend them around a form .Once you have enough pieces, glue together and cramp to the form.I know this sounds like a lot of work but you will have a very strong bead that wont snap if you have to bend them into place. I hope this helps .

Cheers Bern.