Curved door frame

[LBCarpentry]

I’ve only made a few curved door frames and usually try a different method each time until I find a satisfactory solution. Well, think I’ve now found my favourite method....

Make, mitre & glue 2 stock pieces, 45mm thick with plenty of width to achieve the curve. Make 18mm curved template and router the two pieces (never liked doing this on the spindle, time consuming and dangerous)

Then simply laminate the two curved pieces together (using 3 small domino’s to aid location) to achieve a 90mm depth frame.

It was fast, safe, accurate and fun!

 

[deema]

Looks great, well done,
Just a suggestion, when I make them I glue up the laminates before trimming them down to size. This allows me to screw the parts together in the waste avoiding the use of clamps and the stress of stuff moving around in the glue. Quick wiz around with the bandsaw and then trim (in my case with a spindle moulder)
I normally make arches that aren't painted out of three layers to have the join on both sides at 12 o’cloc.

 

[LBCarpentry]

Looks great, well done,
Just a suggestion, when I make them I glue up the laminates before trimming them down to size. This allows me to screw the parts together in the waste avoiding the use of clamps and the stress of stuff moving around in the glue. Quick wiz around with the bandsaw and then trim (in my case with a spindle moulder)
I normally make arches that aren't painted out of three layers to have the join on both sides at 12 o’cloc.

Yes I understand what your saying. I did glue up the “blockwork” before routering the curves out..

The reason I made the two curved pieces separately is that I could use a standard 1/2” worktop cutter. It meant I didn’t have to plunge so deep (90mm!)

I had already prepped my domino “locators” before creating the curves as this is easier to do when the prices are still in block form.

The locators ensured that when I put the two curves together they lined up perfectly and stayed that way when cramped up. A Quick sand at the end and it was spot on.

The only thing I would do different is offset the curves so the final joints are a little more staggered. (Which is what I think your were saying).

 

[RobinBHM]

It takes so long to do curved work.

Whenever Ivecquoted for it, I always wished I'd charged more.

I used to make in 3 layers, gluing up brick fashion - the first 2 layers can be screwed together as the screws can be hidden by the final layer.

And the 3rd layer forms the rebate.

All done with the router - using the amazing disposable tip trimmers from Wealden tools that use rebate tips.

 

[deema]

They do take a little longer. I was for a while flummoxed by how to cut the mortices in the end of the arch quickly and accurately. I now do them before shaping the arch. After glue up, with the waste still left on, and the screws all in the waste, I then screw the arch to a piece of MDF which I will later use to make the template. This gives me straight edge to firstly run through the saw to cut the legs of the arch straight and parallel with each other. Again whilst the arch is attached to the MDF I use the straight edge to guide it through the spindle to cut the mortices. The MDF is then remove, template cut from it and the after the bandsaw has removed the majority of the waste it goes through the spindle.
If making a three layer arch, all laminations get screwed together, both outers screwed through the waste to the centre layer. It can be all done at once, and again with no clamps, and no need to wait before getting on with the mortices.

If possible I try to mamke one layer out of two pieces, joined at 12 o’clock and then the next layer as you have done. The two piece layer Just to my mind looks more elegant. I initially used to joint the end of the pieces, but found that it didn’t add anything, I tried it initially to stop the pieces moving when clamping. I just find it quicker and don’t have to stop working if I screw then togethervwithiut any joints.

 

[deema]

It takes so long to do curved work.

Whenever Ivecquoted for it, I always wished I'd charged more.

I used to make in 3 layers, gluing up brick fashion - the first 2 layers can be screwed together as the screws can be hidden by the final layer.

And the 3rd layer forms the rebate.

All done with the router - using the amazing disposable tip trimmers from Wealden tools that use rebate tips.

Ha, ha, yeah, and bowed, arched sliding sashes are the worst!

 

[LBCarpentry]

The key is in the setting out, as with all joinery but ever more so with arches. It helps if you can use CAD software but nowhere near essential. Yes it does cost more, This single job tips over 4k (inc VAT). Made, painted and installed that is.... and we've still gone over the allocated time...

.... Although I do have a new workshop team who have barely made a single casement, let alone a curved frame with externally glazed glass & internally opening doors . Turned out great though - All down to clear instruction and planning no doubt by a boss who believes in his team

Louis

 

[doctor Bob]

Thats cool.
I avoid curved work where possible but occasionally I have to make bow fronted units or barrel shapes.
It's definately non profit work, in a profitable kitchen.

 

[Doug71]

I always get caught out by how much longer curved work takes, I should have learnt by now.

One thing that I struggle with when dealing with curved work is when the existing brickwork is not quite a true arch. It looks better for example when your doors etc are a true arch but then wrong when the frame doesn't follow the brickwork if you know what I mean. I seem to waste ages taking templates then working out curves that are the best compromise.

 

[Tuna808]

Great work !....you have an enviable wrokshop!

 

[LBCarpentry]

I always get caught out by how much longer curved work takes, I should have learnt by now.

One thing that I struggle with when dealing with curved work is when the existing brickwork is not quite a true arch. It looks better for example when your doors etc are a true arch but then wrong when the frame doesn't follow the brickwork if you know what I mean. I seem to waste ages taking templates then working out curves that are the best compromise.

I gave up on doing those mdf site templates! Impossible! I now just take a number of measurements and CAD it. In sketch up, import a full frontal photo of the job, and literally just put it behind the cad drawing as a rough confirmation. Allow anything up to 15mm gap to allow for pointing in. The framework is 70mm wide, so there’s plenty to shave off if it’s tight.

Easier to make good on site I say!

Louis

 

[doctor Bob]

Make, mitre & glue 2 stock pieces, 45mm thick with plenty of width to achieve the curve. Make 18mm curved template and router the two pieces (never liked doing this on the spindle, time consuming and dangerous)

It's all horses for courses, no right or wrong way, but big stuff like this I much prefer a spindle.

 

[philip sewell]

Interesting work Louis.

I occasionally get asked to make a curved cornice for a friend with a kitchen making company. I use the brick technique building up 4 layers out of 1 ¼” poplar offcuts.

I make up a jig which acts as a big compass on the o/h router (I am also twitchy about doing this on spindle moulder).

I have to match the moulding on the straight wall units so I nail a thin bit of cornice to the laminations and nibble away with various profiles getting as close as I can to the required shape (unfortunately the profiles I have to match are never designed around existing router cutter profiles so I have to do a fair amount of hand sanding to get a smooth profile).

I don’t worry too much about biscuit joints showing through the profile as they are always painted.

Any curved stuff usually adds a lot of time onto the job.

Phil.