Cupboard shelf attachment

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Geebee

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Hi all,

Bit of guidance/input would be much appreciated.

I plan on making some cupboards from 18mm ply approx 200cm X 60cm X 50cm (H x W x D), and will need a number of shelves fitting. I was wondering what you think about the method for attaching shelves that can be adjusted if needed.

I was thinking either making a dado routing jig and routing out a dado every 10cms. Would having lots of dados cut weaken the cupboard?

Or would it be easier just to drill lots of holes for the shelf supports bit like you would get with a flatpack cupboard. Was thinking of using some pegboard as a template for it.

Thoughts much appreciated, or if I have completely overlooked another option please do shout.

Thanks
 
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I don't think shallow dados would weaken the sides BUT they'd look awful!

I would have one fixed shelf half way up the height house in dados to give stability and then drill rows of holes to use shelf pins to hold the shelves and be able to have different positions. Kreg make a jig for the holes but it's pretty simple to make one of your own from a piece of scrap material (I made mine from perspex) [ I think @petermillard has a YT film about a home-brewed shelf pin jig]
 
Hi all,

Bit of guidance/input would be much appreciated.

I plan on making some cupboards from 18mm ply approx 200cm X 60cm X 50cm (H x W x D), and will need a number of shelves fitting. I was wondering what you think about the method for attaching shelves that can be adjusted if needed.

I was thinking either making a dado routing jig and routing out a dado every 10cms. Would having lots of dados cut weaken the cupboard?

Or would it be easier just to drill lots of holes for the shelf supports bit like you would get with a flatpack cupboard. Was thinking of using some pegboard as a template for it.

Thoughts much appreciated, or if I have completely overlooked another option please do shout.

Thanks
Rows of holes on 32mm centres have been a staple of the fitted furniture business for decades, and there are plenty of jigs around that help with that; I used one very similar to this for years and it worked fine; be aware that some of the cheaper ones come with a 1/4” drill bit, not 5mm. Pegboard will work, but you’ll need to keep an eye on wear on the holes as you progress up the cupboard - nobody wants wobbly shelves.

There are also other options - bookcase strips, sometimes called Tonk strips, work well, but are a bit more of a ‘traditional’ look. HTH P
 
Get your shelf pins first before doing any drilling. These rely on a tight fit to work and some have a metal sleeve to go in the hole. You need to allow a fraction extra for a snug fit so a 4 mm pin will need a 4.3 mm hole etc. Some have ' flats ' to take the shelf but they can still move a little. I tend to use round pins with a few rubber ' o ' rings on them. One system that is elegant and invisible is the ' Magic Wire ' system which relies on a stainless 4 mm wire let into two holes. You will have to mill a stopped 4 mm slot in the edges of the shelf and slide it in from the front.
Did I mention buying a good digital vernier to make life easier !
 
There are also these.
00S0712-sawtooth-shelf-set-red-oak-f-33.jpg
 
If it's just a utilitarian unit consider pocket hole screws. Yes, you will have to buy a jig but they work a treat if you don't mind having to hide the holes with a plastic cap. Not for a piece of fine furniture alas.
The shelves are fixed but in practice most people don't move shelves once installed.
 
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