just been reading the thread on resawing in the hand tools section . and saw woodblokes comment
woodbloke
Post subject: Re: ResawingPosted: Jul 06, 2012 7:11am
Mr. Very Sharp
Joined: Apr 13, 2006 8:53pm
Posts: 11578
Location: Salisbury, UK
Teckel wrote:
I usually just run them on the rip saw. It will cut around 4" then flip it over.
If the board is wider than that I finish off bit to be cut with the bandsaw, then run through the thicknesser
I've done this on a table saw in the past and it's not best practice, as you have to remove the crown guard to do it. The so called technique of 'deep ripping' is illegal in any commercial and professional 'shop for that reason - Rob
_________________
The Blokeblog
NOW...I'll bow to his greater experience in these things simply because doubtless he has been "at it " a hell of a lot longer than me, BUT what I want to know, having looked at this particular aspect of things with a somewhat jaundiced eye for a while now, is just WHAT a crown guard does, what are its duties so to speak. I'm not talking industrial machines with whopping cast iron thingies bolted here there and every where like some robot wars leviathan....but yer ordinary common or garden (or is that garage) variety
I mean, is it to stop things flying if it all goes horribly wrong...cant be...them plasticky things wouldnt stop an arthritic slug, let alone a piece of meteoric timber and any way thats what your riving knife is for...stopping timber going meteoric in the first place. Granted i have had timber start to lift when deep ripping...BUT that is what springy thingies are for.. uhm....they do have a name, but age and poverty mean i forget...so springy thingies is what I call em...Uhm...I have just been informed by a very smug looking swmbo that they are Shaw guards....hmmmmmmmmmm
OR ...is it to stop you slicing digits off? well erm...do you think that pathetic red bit of Airfix is going to do that? Indeed it would have to be something special to stop you sliding your thumbs under if you were THAT careless....besides...thats what push sticks etc are for...sacrificial digits......
OR is it to stop you nutting the blade when you faint with surprise when SWMBO brings you a cuppa for one? Well I suppose it might just achieve that, though I have my doubts
OR is it just a convenient place to stick a (very inefficient) dust extract to
Lets face it most table saws of the ";light trade" variety, seem to be designed for maximum inefficiency, that over reaching riving knife with its attached bit of plastic or tin which requires the arms of an orangutan coupled with the dexterity of a gynecologist to remove and replace is a pain in the butt.
so what...exactly is "that ""thing"" for?
I took mine off....reground the riving knife so it is about 3mm below the blade top and replaced it with a floating jobbie...connected via an old hoover wand to the dust extract no obstructions anywhere around the saw table...cos it descends from the roof.
Dust extract is great as the saw is extracted over head through the guard with a hplv shop vac (exiled out side in a box cos of its racket) and under the saw with a hvlp chip extract fitted with .2 micron filter cartridge in side (atm) SOME odd saw dust CHIPPINGS still escape at times because of their relatively high momentum, but all the dangerous fine stuf goes up that wand...and I know it works,,,I can cut Iroko...without a dust mask (though i DO generally still wear one) without ending up hopping round the workshop sneezing.
SO....I repeat...what EXACTLY is that pathetic bit of plastic supposed to do (apart from getting in the way
woodbloke
Post subject: Re: ResawingPosted: Jul 06, 2012 7:11am
Mr. Very Sharp
Joined: Apr 13, 2006 8:53pm
Posts: 11578
Location: Salisbury, UK
Teckel wrote:
I usually just run them on the rip saw. It will cut around 4" then flip it over.
If the board is wider than that I finish off bit to be cut with the bandsaw, then run through the thicknesser
I've done this on a table saw in the past and it's not best practice, as you have to remove the crown guard to do it. The so called technique of 'deep ripping' is illegal in any commercial and professional 'shop for that reason - Rob
_________________
The Blokeblog
NOW...I'll bow to his greater experience in these things simply because doubtless he has been "at it " a hell of a lot longer than me, BUT what I want to know, having looked at this particular aspect of things with a somewhat jaundiced eye for a while now, is just WHAT a crown guard does, what are its duties so to speak. I'm not talking industrial machines with whopping cast iron thingies bolted here there and every where like some robot wars leviathan....but yer ordinary common or garden (or is that garage) variety
I mean, is it to stop things flying if it all goes horribly wrong...cant be...them plasticky things wouldnt stop an arthritic slug, let alone a piece of meteoric timber and any way thats what your riving knife is for...stopping timber going meteoric in the first place. Granted i have had timber start to lift when deep ripping...BUT that is what springy thingies are for.. uhm....they do have a name, but age and poverty mean i forget...so springy thingies is what I call em...Uhm...I have just been informed by a very smug looking swmbo that they are Shaw guards....hmmmmmmmmmm
OR ...is it to stop you slicing digits off? well erm...do you think that pathetic red bit of Airfix is going to do that? Indeed it would have to be something special to stop you sliding your thumbs under if you were THAT careless....besides...thats what push sticks etc are for...sacrificial digits......
OR is it to stop you nutting the blade when you faint with surprise when SWMBO brings you a cuppa for one? Well I suppose it might just achieve that, though I have my doubts
OR is it just a convenient place to stick a (very inefficient) dust extract to
Lets face it most table saws of the ";light trade" variety, seem to be designed for maximum inefficiency, that over reaching riving knife with its attached bit of plastic or tin which requires the arms of an orangutan coupled with the dexterity of a gynecologist to remove and replace is a pain in the butt.
so what...exactly is "that ""thing"" for?
I took mine off....reground the riving knife so it is about 3mm below the blade top and replaced it with a floating jobbie...connected via an old hoover wand to the dust extract no obstructions anywhere around the saw table...cos it descends from the roof.
Dust extract is great as the saw is extracted over head through the guard with a hplv shop vac (exiled out side in a box cos of its racket) and under the saw with a hvlp chip extract fitted with .2 micron filter cartridge in side (atm) SOME odd saw dust CHIPPINGS still escape at times because of their relatively high momentum, but all the dangerous fine stuf goes up that wand...and I know it works,,,I can cut Iroko...without a dust mask (though i DO generally still wear one) without ending up hopping round the workshop sneezing.
SO....I repeat...what EXACTLY is that pathetic bit of plastic supposed to do (apart from getting in the way