Cottage back door for the M-I-L

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DigitalM

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Just totted up the timber in Sapele and it's like £220+vat or so. Given that this is going to be painted and maintained, any suggestions for something cheaper? If for durability it really has to be a durable hardwood then so be it! I looked at the douglas fir prices and they were about the same. I read somewhere that hemlock is used sometimes for doors, but that stuff doesn't sound anywhere near as durable or secure.
 

johnnyb

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redwood would be cheaper. but I've been caught out by these plank doors twisting many times. there not suitable for weather tight doors( think outside bog or coalhouse). also they don't like secure locks. I think I would make a framed door and try and make a stormproof rebate on the door if the frame rebate is narrow.
 

DigitalM

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I could do without twisting. Can't wait to get this one behind me and get onto another project more within my comfort zone. Learning a lot though!
 

Ollie78

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Utile, Meranti (if you can find a nice bit) , Red grandis, Southern yellow pine, Douglas fir.

Ollie
 

thetyreman

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Redwood pine is good if you are painting it, but it's not very durable, you will be lucky if it lasts 5 years using modern paints, however linseed oil paints will work well with it.

I'd go with a nice hardwood like english oak, sapele or iroko.
 

Doug71

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Bit of an out there alternative suggestion but if you are looking at spending £250 on wood and not looking forwards to making it get yourself a sheet of 18mm Tricoya MDF. Just cut it to size and use some of the off cuts for the battens, you can easily put some fake grooves in with a saw or router. No problems with sagging or movement.

Never done it myself but Keith Brown made a gate like that.


 

DigitalM

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One quick question as I've just started dimensioning the timber (got a good deal on some sapele from Yandles!).

With regard to the tongue and groove. Is it customary to cut the tongues to the exact depth, or a little short of full-depth to allow for movement or something?
 

DigitalM

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Just getting to the end of this project. Anyone have any advice on the best primer/paint or other products to use for painting a sapele exterior door?

Originally the mother-in-law was thinking of a natural wood finish, but now wants paint. Actually, as good as it would look in a natural finish, I think it would match existing exterior doors and windows if it were painted the same.
 

Thingybob

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No mate no milking shots :eek:

I'm thinking something like this.


Though that's apparently an internal door.

Trying to solve the window issue. I did a sketchup because I can't do back of fag-packet stuff like you more professional types who know what you're doing, and it helps me to understand what's going on before I do something stupid (which, given half a chance, I will).

I'm thinking (see pics) of dropping double glazed unit in front and then mitre framing it in to hold it. Security is not much of an issue in the area I'm assured, and door will be hard to access because of enclosed garden.

Someone very kindly already pointed out that you don't glue the battens, so I've been reading all round the subject!

And before anyone says, the M-I-L really didn't want clinched nails, so unless there's something terrible with woodscrewed and plugged (other than it being non-traditional) then it would probably have to be that.

Quite enjoying the challenge of getting my head around this and I'm learning a lot. Thanks so much for the generous donation of time and experience. I really appreciate it. I have limited time available at moment so I'm not fast! I know some of you would have finished it the afternoon it was requested!
Have you thought of a port hole style window off set in the T and G quirky and you can hone your circular wood work to boot
 

Jameshow

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Just getting to the end of this project. Anyone have any advice on the best primer/paint or other products to use for painting a sapele exterior door?

Originally the mother-in-law was thinking of a natural wood finish, but now wants paint. Actually, as good as it would look in a natural finish, I think it would match existing exterior doors and windows if it were painted the same.
Let's be seeing it then!!!
 

DigitalM

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Sorry I've been building rather than photographing!

First big project really, of anything bigger than a small box! So go easy on me, I'm trying my best. I'm sure every bit of it could be improved upon. I've taken it to the site and cut it to fit the frame since this was taken and am quite please with it. It's back at my mate's workshop (we kind of share the space) for finalising. I'm going to putty the glass and nail the glazing frames on next. Then Paint (yes paint!) it. Seems a shame but there we go. I'd hoped she'd see it then keep it natural but to be fair all the other woodwork is this nice cotswold green so it would probably look out of place.

Oh and I have to fit a weather bar. I guess I could laminate something up and use some of the old woody moulding planes I have. Then again I can get one on ebay for £30. At this stage I just want to finish the thing but it's a 20 minute trip each way to the workshop and I just rarely get a couple of free hours that seems to be the minimum needed to actually do anything when I've taken the 40min travel time out of it!

Outside:
67320464377__B5F67079-518B-45A7-8F42-84834EE91EF7_Reduced.jpg

Inside:
67320471054__4472E853-DB4C-4085-9DE2-9B98AA23655E_Reduced.jpg

Ledge with wood plugs:
IMG_8099_Reduced.jpg

Profile for glazing frames:
67362103771__C5562D3C-0F03-4330-9C80-2497B6608342_Reduced.jpg

You know, erm, chamfered edge thing:
67320667676__D863EB40-6037-4F6C-9C62-60D750D23BEE_Reduced.jpg

Oh yeah, testing biscuit-type cuts for the frame edges. Obviously I used a narrower loose-tennon biscuit thing:
67362498744__1024C92C-0E6D-488D-9155-65355DE67AD4_Reduced.jpg
 

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DigitalM

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Another update from the worlds longest running door project, including an urgent plea for help with locks:

Last week I glazed the door with 6mm toughened glass using linseed oil putty. Seems ok, some cleanup to do!
glazed.JPG

Bought some strap hinges that were terrible so returned them:
straphinge1.jpg

Found some others that were loads better, though I will have to file a one of the hole to accept a square coach bolt for security:
straphinge2.JPG

Now the lock problem.

- The door opens outward
- The door is is 5/8" thick (not thick enough for sash lock)

If I sit a rim lock with the little 'overlap' right to the edge of the door then the lock would hit the door stop when closing, and it seems to me that cutting the door stop would look unsightly

Maybe I could file off the overlap, set the lock back a bit, and then set a strikeplate into the door stop?!

I guess I could add a block of wood set back a bit onto the door then mount a rim lock to that, which is deep enough to allow the rimlock to pass behind the door stop and mount a catch like the one below behind the door stop?

Is there a better or more approriate lock to use?
rimlock.jpg

Quite close to finishing this project now, just a couple more months maybe :ROFLMAO::unsure:
 

DigitalM

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Just bolts. I'd like to fit a proper lock if possible but they said just bolts was ok if there wasn't a better solution. It's a back door so not like it's the main entrance - they never 'exit' (and lock) the door to go our and about for example, just to go into the garden.
 

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Doug71

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Tricky one when it opens out and not thick enough for a standard sash/deadlock.

You could maybe do something with one of the Gatemate locks, they are a bit like a locking bolt, designed for gates really but a good quality product.

They have a really long throw, might screw on the back of one of the ledges and cut a small square out of the stop lath for the bolt to shoot through :dunno:

Link below

 
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