Corro Dip - If you were wondering.....

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adidat":2z3g1hyg said:
whats it do to brass?

also a tenner for p+p strikes me as a bit steep

adidat

It cleans it for a short dip but eats it entirely over a long immersion.

I put one of those Victorian farthings in with the axe to clean it and it virtually disappeared!

Good job I got some spares!

Jim
 
adidat":1r98hwf8 said:
whats it do to brass?

also a tenner for p+p strikes me as a bit steep

adidat

Why, adidat? They can hardly just stick a stamp on it and pop it into a post-box. It will have to be safely packaged and probably sent by courier. You may even find that they are subsidising the true cost of processing the order. But we are already discussing that on another thread.

FWIW, I am currently considering increasing my P&P rates. I subsidise every one of my overseas customers, and they are the majority. I just about break even on the UK P&P, Some I gain, some I lose, depending on exactly what people buy, but it just about evens out. In contrast, when I send out to America or Australia, it costs me about £17 when I charge £9.99.

The cost of processing an order is not trivial anymore.

S
 
£10 postage on the corrodip may reflect what it costs to pack it, process an order and post it, but it is enough to make me look for either a stockist of that product (it seems that there are none locally), or of something similar. There is obviously profit on the product, which should cover the cost of processing an order from it. I dont believe that the cost of processing internet orders is that significant to the likes of the manufacturers of the product. I am not commenting on Workshop Essentials which is obviously an entirely different type of organisation.

Postage in general is becoming extremely expensive for anything greater than 750g, where the prices rise steeply. That said, there is the potential for good courier contract rates, and they will be making a good few quid on the postage alone of that corrodip. I am not asking that they subsidise it, I am just stating that the subconscious rate at which I question the value is set at below the £8.whatever it was + VAT I was quoted. Likewise, there have been ebay items where I have not bid because the value I put on items is less than what I would have to bid to win and the postage.
 
Says it's "Blend of partially neutralised organic salts and natural acids" on the website, so probably doing a similar thing to acetic or citric acid with a few knobs and whistles thrown in.
 
Jim, I've been meaning to post a couple of questions for you, so it's lucky that this thread has come to the surface as it already answers one question i.e. it seems that Liquid Engineering is the only source? Seems odd that, as you'd imagine that the likes of Axy, Rutland, Toolstation etc. would buy it by the vanload, leaving L.E. to concentrate on their Industrial users!

Second question: due to various health problems, I haven't been near my lathe for ages and it's now more than somewhat rusty. I need to de-rust the bed, tailstock, toolrest, the spindle nose and a few minor things. I assume that I can use Corro Dip, but how?
Just dilute it and paint it on? If so what dilution would you suggest?
 
Tony Spear":1qy3mqub said:
Jim, I've been meaning to post a couple of questions for you, so it's lucky that this thread has come to the surface as it already answers one question i.e. it seems that Liquid Engineering is the only source? Seems odd that, as you'd imagine that the likes of Axy, Rutland, Toolstation etc. would buy it by the vanload, leaving L.E. to concentrate on their Industrial users!

Second question: due to various health problems, I haven't been near my lathe for ages and it's now more than somewhat rusty. I need to de-rust the bed, tailstock, toolrest, the spindle nose and a few minor things. I assume that I can use Corro Dip, but how?
Just dilute it and paint it on? If so what dilution would you suggest?

The only place I have seen it is from LE...so I guess that must be the only source. Since I bought my litre at a bootfair for 50p...I haven't really looked elsewhere. 8) I am a bit p*d off that I didn't buy all the stock the guy had...knowing what I know now...but at the time I thought it was just one of those hyped up "as seen on TV" type products.....until I tried it one day.

The only "non-dip" method I used was to heat it right up and paint it on my steel scaffolding (mostly the feet) and just leave it there. It dried on leaving a kind of black skin...no rust. I wire brushed a bit which left quite clean metal but gave up after a while as it seemed pointless to remove the black finish..

Since then the feet have not rusted at all and all the bolts work fine.

For the lathe...I would put on a pair of latex gloves and wipe it on....then later polish it off with a copper brush....

If I get time this week I will do a few tests...but I don't like using too much on brush on because it can't be reclaimed.

Will let you know how the tests go.

Jimi
 
Hey Jimi,

Nothing wrong with S&Js.... 8)

I have a nice pair (Rip and Cross) I wouldn't part with. (Plus they give me a good aerobic work-out! Well, I guess any hand-saw will do that, but you know what I mean!) :lol:
 
jimi43":2rplcx6s said:
For the lathe...I would put on a pair of latex gloves and wipe it on....then later polish it off with a copper brush...

Jimi,

Do you think the old Nitromors tricks might work: paint it on as you suggest and cover with damp newspaper + clingfilm, to limit evaporation?

As you know, I've got a few sash cramps to do...

E.
 
Benchwayze":c0ch6h7p said:
Hey Jimi,

Nothing wrong with S&Js.... 8)

I have a nice pair (Rip and Cross) I wouldn't part with. (Plus they give me a good aerobic work-out! Well, I guess any hand-saw will do that, but you know what I mean!) :lol:

Hey John...I know...I just don't like them. I think that it might be down to their domination of the market in later years and the loss of so many small independent makers....and my memories of that horrible orange plastic handle!

Eric...it's a difficult one mate...let me try on something and get back to you.

Jim
 
Eric The Viking":1t4o46sf said:
jimi43":1t4o46sf said:
For the lathe...I would put on a pair of latex gloves and wipe it on....then later polish it off with a copper brush...

Jimi,

Do you think the old Nitromors tricks might work: paint it on as you suggest and cover with damp newspaper + clingfilm, to limit evaporation?

As you know, I've got a few sash cramps to do...

E.

The active component in Nitromors was a volatile solvent (hence the recommendation to cover to prevent evaporation). The active components of Coro-dip don't look to be volatile, so should be less necessary, but I guess it will stop it drying out.
 
Ah well Jimi.,

Mine are circa 1960/70. Wooden handles. Kept well too.
I did offer them for sale a few months ago, but no one was interested. So I sharpened 'em and put 'em in me tea-chest tool-box! !
 
Of course John...and the old ones are great...I'm just a bit of a Sorby man meself! :wink:

On the subject of rust removal from items which cannot be dipped...I have contacted Liquid Engineering and should hopefully have an answer on that one too soon.

Cheers

Jim
 
jimi43":1qdb1fcf said:
On the subject of rust removal from items which cannot be dipped...I have contacted Liquid Engineering and should hopefully have an answer on that one too soon.

Cheers

Jim

Thanks Jim, looking forward to what they have to say.

I suppose I could have asked them myself, but I thought I'd ask somebody who's used it in a woodworking situation first.
 
Being an inveterate cheapskate, and being near my 70th birthday, spending £35 on something that will probably not be used that often feels wrong :( . Wonder if there is any mileage in woodworking clubs buying a 5 litre can and splitting it for sale to members?
 
dickm":2ccbtgyc said:
Wonder if there is any mileage in woodworking clubs buying a 5 litre can and splitting it for sale to members?
Hi Dick, I suggested something like that some months ago but no replies/comments, I guess re-distribution might be complicated?
chris
 
trouble is, unless people are local to each other, you will end up wasting any saving having to post it on.
 
I hear that Malt Vinegar works well, but takes a little longer. It's certainly cheap and available enough.

I don't know if any specific brand works better than another, :mrgreen: but I like 'Asda's Smart-Price' on my chips. Sarson's is too acidic for me! That might be a clue I suppose! 8)

I haven't tried vinegar for rust removal, because up to yet I haven't had anything rusty enough to need any treatment other than elbow grease, abrasive or a wire-brush.


HTH
 
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