Correct use of sanding sealer

[Grahamshed]

The common use seems to be to slop it on all over and denib before putting on a second coat. The sealer itself can be waxed or polished up as a finished product if desired.

I have also read that each coat should be sanded until the surface layer is totally removed and it is only left filling the pores, the resultant bare wood can then be waxed to produce a more even coating.

What is the best way to use it ?

 

[petercharlesfagg]

Graham,

This is my method, it works for me but it is probably different for others!

With the lathe stopped I apply it neat with a piece of cloth, spreading it evenly over the surface. Allow it to dry off, then using some webrax or similar I spin it to denib.

Stop lathe and reapply.

Depending on the absorption of the timber I may give it up to 4 coats, denibbing between each coat, then I leave it for at least 12 hours in the warm before buffing.

The only advice I would give is not to overload the cloth or streaks will be visible of hardened sealer under any finish.

I used to use my sealer 50/50 with thinners but after watching other professionals decided that neat was the best option.

Hope this helps, regards, Peter.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Same for me only I generally only do 2 coats and I almost always finish on top of the sealer, usually with wax as it gives a better lustre in my view.

 

[CHJ]

The common use seems to be to slop it on all over and denib before putting on a second coat. The sealer itself can be waxed or polished up as a finished product if desired.

I have also read that each coat should be sanded until the surface layer is totally removed and it is only left filling the pores, the resultant bare wood can then be waxed to produce a more even coating.

You can't generalise about sealer.
There are too many variables, not least type of sealer, Cellulose, Shellac, Acrylic for starters, which have their own drying and hardening timescales resultant from the solvent used.
Then there are the wood species that provide varying structure densities per species and even within a specific piece.

Because I'm an impatient individual as far as finishing is concerned and am happy with the 'shine' level it produces without a deep in depth gloss I stick with cellulose sealer for 90% of my pieces.
For speed I keep my 'user' sealer in a screw topped jar containing an application brush and dilute it 10-20%.
I sand to 240-320 grit, paying particular attention to grain direction and slap on a coat of sealer and wipe off surplus to see if it highlights any scratches or torn grain spots missed in sanding or perhaps the odd spot that has soaked up all the sealer with no shiny skin on the surface.

If scratches, blemishes or dull spots are detected they are re-sanded if necessary and locally re-coated.

If all ok pieces are three wheel buffed as soon as lathe is setup for process.

Same procedure is used for Shellac, Acrylic or lacquer if used but timescale is considerably extended by hours or days to allow sealer coat to harden before buffing.

What is the best way to use it ?

The way you find appropriate for the type of turnings you do and that give you the finish you prefer. Experiment and see what you like, in six months you will probably change your mind and do it differently but by that time you will know why you are changing.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

good point, I also forgot to mention in my +1 to Peter's. I don't wait 12 hours for my cellulose to dry either. In fact, if you burnish the CSS after application with shavings from beneath the lathe held in your hand it "dry's" it pretty much instantaneously. I have both acrylic and shellac but never use them since I discovered cellulose as its just so much quicker and seems to have none of the downsides. I'm with Chas on the impatient front but the great thing about CSS is it plays right into the hands of the impatient turner as it dries so quickly.

 

[RogerP]

For lathe work I brush on sanding sealer and when dry sand almost all of it off again - twice. That's quick and easy on a turning but hugely more time consuming on a piece of furniture, say a chair, for that I often use "old fashioned" grain filler paste - just once.

 

[swb58]

It's only recently that I've acquired some shellac sanding sealer and so far been underimpressed with what it does, but happy to confess I probably don't know how best to use it.

I now someone who makes tables and stuff out of heavy timber, nothing arty farty and fancy about it, he has a large tin of polish which is left with the lid off so that it hardens up a bit, then he uses it as more of a filler type product if needed.