corners on 45 degree bay

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johnnyb

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what is the best way to machine the posts in the corners of a 45 degree bay casement. I'm pretty confident with the outside its the angles on the inside I'm concerned with mostly.
cheers in advance.
 

johnnyb

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just to clarify it's this bit
 

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Housey210

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Made many of these bays over the years. My jointing method enclosed. The square edges helped in maching and cramping up.
 

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johnnyb

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ohhh please explain that method? my brain is struggling with it( not the first time). what's the loose tongue for?
 

Housey210

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not sure what window you are making as your sketch refer to weights and casement. This method is really for 90 and 45 degree bays with straight casements and although made a 45 degree box sash, it was as a whole unit. this jointing method suits site fixing. what stock are you using and have you done a workshop rod? Joiner by trade, always used rods, white hardboard, and always encourage the practice . Draw out the window full size, showing rebate lines. the rough sketch is based on a 90 degree bay, hence the 45 but the joining method will work on any angled bay, just adjust the tooling, I had a precise vari angle block for use on my spindle. The tongue is plywood and the groove mid way on the splay. From the rod the cheese can be seen and machined up. need a sketch really of your plan.
 
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Housey210

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the piece in your diagram appears to be one, that would be a pig to machine and tenon. for me it would be as enclosed, two pieces joined with loose tongue, screwing the three frames together on site. grain plugs i guess if not painted. good luck,
 

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johnnyb

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many thanks that's a really good diagram and that method would be much easier to machine especially on my tilting spindle.
here's my rod drawn out. the 2 arms are at 43 1/2 and 44 1/2 and the overall sizes seem correct. I'm guessing there's some "adjustment" in the finished article! especially using your join on site method.
 

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johnnyb

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this is about the seventh Bay I've replaced and the ones that were replaced bays ie victorian bays replaced in the 60s or 70s or 80s have all been cock ups mostly made the wrong size and bodged on one the sil was near 7 inches bodged up to account for the sizes being wrong!
the victoran edwardian bays are usually good quality from the workshop but the fitting has been flattered with lots of putty!
 

Housey210

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Tilting spindle, perfect, my vari angle block only gave 50mm cut so with rebate block you should get a better height. you will have that fitted by the end of the week! rod looks good though i found the ply awkward to draw on as pencil followed grain.
 
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