Corner computer desk built in.

[philpolish]

Hi all just after a few pointers I make unfitted pine furniture for a living and a friend has asked me to make them a built in from mdf. They want a corner computer desk then to each side of that they want a bookcase floor to ceiling. The two walls are around two metres long each. I have got my head round the bookcase sitting on a plinth and scribing panels for the walls . I just need some ideas on the desk. I was thinking about screwing a batton to the back wall then batons on the ends of the bookcase and just putting a top on that . Any suggestions will be very much appreciated. Also which screws are best for mdf.

Thanks in advance Phil.

 

[Scrit]

Hi Phil

I do a bit of MDF and I'd suggest that the L-shaped top can sit quite happily on two battens on the wall plus two battens on the units. I'd probably fix the bookshelves to the walls using something like mirror plates, or incorporating a "nailer" (internal stretcher) across the back of the unit with a couple of frame fixings in each. The L-shaped top can then be fixed in place on a bead of silicone after you've scribed it to the walls - it really won't move at all but it can be dismantled with a bit of BFI in future (i.e. smack it with a hammer + lump of wood from beneath). If you're really worried run a few screws through into the batten, but I doubt you'll need them. The maximum run this way would probably be 1.2 x 2.0 metres. If you approach the maximum it might be necessary to introduce a daigonal brace in the corner between the wall battens to provide extra support - it all depends on how much weight you are putting on the desk surface, size, etc.

To put carcasses together I use either dowels or biscuits, but if you don't mind the heads showing, or you can hide them beneath trim mouldings, etc. then black carcass screws work extremely well and don't pull-out (and they're cheap, too). For extra strength run a bead of glue along the joint before screwing together (I'm assuming you're delivering KD and assembling in situ).

One other thing you may want to consider is a cable outlet or cable knock-out or two in the desktop

A suggestion for plinths is to consider adjusting feet like they have on kitchen cabinets. The plinths then just become clip-on pieces. For extra weight you may need to go to 6 or 7 feet (I do this for larder cabionets, etc)

Scrit

 

[DomValente]

Hi Phil,

Scrit is spot on, I recently made exactly this configuration out of pine for a client.
A couple of pointers, don't make the desktop too deep, it's wasted space and you couldn't reach that far back to get at items placed in the corner.
the diagonal brace could be placed a couple of inches from the front lip, it will give a completed look to the piece,ensure there is enough room for legs(human) beneath this. Place cable holes forward enough so that they are not obstructed by rear battens,you can purchase cable insert tidies from most suppliers Hafele etc.
Hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs,but I too have little experience with fitted furniture and would never admit to having made such a basic mistake

Good Luck
Dom

 

[Nick W]

Dom has a good point about the brace under the front edge. MDF has a bit too much give without it.

An alternative to MDF is good old-fasioned blockboard. It is lighter, stiffer, and cutting it doesn't produce such horrible dust. However if you are looking for a particular veneer then you might be out of luck, as most importers seem to have stopped doing this in the last few months :evil:

 

[Anonymous]

Hi guys

I am fairly new to all this so I guive my 'understanding' of this with trepidation..

I am about to build a very similar built in to this, albeit not in MDF, I am using ply.

My plan for the desk top was to use 9mm ply with veneer, build a box frame with 20/25mm battens, then use another piece of ply for the bottom, then face it off with something to match up the top veneer.

Makes it strong, lightweight and gives the appearance of a thick desk top. Is the theory!

I pinched the concept from a book on Building the Home Office, so thought I would share... I'll find a link to the book in a minute..


Would be great to see how it turns out Nick.

edit: http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASI ... 52-5624610

 

[Steve Maskery]

BigLouie
I've not done much built-in stuff, so I can't spread my expertise here, but the method you describe is called Torsion Box construction, and is an excellent approach. The strength is in the skins. Just make sure thay are not so thin that the skeleton ghosts through. DAMHIKT.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Scrit]

.... don't make the desktop too deep, it's wasted space and you couldn't reach that far back to get at items placed in the corner.

Yes, but the corner makes an excellent place to park that 20in Sony Trinitron monitor :wink:

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Steve

Torsion box, thats the one. Don't have the book here at work to dig out the name.

I have to pick out the thickness of the top and bottom boards yet, I was planning 9mm backed on one side with veneer and then basically suspeding the desk on battens between the two cabinets/shelving units.

Looks common sense to me, we'll see how I get on!