Corian router table?

[Timmo]

Hi guys,
I've been reading the forum for a while now and decided to register and say "Hi"
Now, I have lots of questions I have been wanting to ask but first off I have a question about Corian worktops...
I currently have a Rutlands Dakota router table which is all well and good. I use a crappy B&Q performance pro router mounted with a "poor mans" router lift (Scissor Jack)..Does the job fine and I have the 1/2 inch Axminster white router for "Out of table" work..
Now..I like to build my own stuff and have just got my hands on some good lengths of corian that someone was getting rid of so it was free .
So..I was considering making my own router table and using the corian as the top..
I know very little about the corian as a material but I am guessing that it is going to be pretty stable and isn't going to swell / shrink or anything else that MDF / chipboard might experience.
Is this a good idea / bad idea / waste of the corian. Also..the corian seems to be about 12mm thick...is this thick enough or should I use something else underneath it?
Sorry - another question - How easy is it to work? Can it be drilled / routed, table sawn with ease / without knackering blades and bits?
Appreciate any advice and just wanted to say that this is a great forum.
Cheers
Timmo

 

[OllyK]

FWIW it'll give you a nice flat, stable slippy surface. I'd be inclined to beef it up by putting something else under it so that it doesn't bow with the weight of a router in it. If it was free it certainly isn't a waste.

My parents had corian worktops and the guy fitting it used a router to put some channels in for some metal bar to act as a pan skillet. No idea how hard it was on the bits though!

 

[Timmo]

Thanks OllyK..I'll just make sure I don't use any of my good router bits..I had a look and there is some sort of MDF type subframe underneath it already so I guess that helps support it..
I'll need to decide what size to make the table and after cutting it work out how best to reinforce it.. but sounds good.
Thanks
Timmo

 

[jasonB]

The usual way to fabricate corian tops is to bond a frame of 25mm MR MDF to the underside. However to ensure there is no movement due to the MDF swelling you may be better bonding some strips of Corian to the underside.

It can be cut with normal TCT saw blades and router cutters, for the amount you have to do wear is not an issue. You can also cut threads in it.

Make sure the internal corners of any cut outs are rounded otherwise these are potential stress raisers where cracks can start from.

Jason

 

[Timmo]

Thanks a lot Jason..I will certeinly bear in mind your comments..I actually have 3 pieces..all about 2m long and 60cm wide, one with a sink in..So I guess I could bon the one with the sink cutout underneath one of the "whole" bits to make it more sturdy..I can then use the cut out for the sink in the bottom part as the place to mount the router...Sounding good..
What would one use to bond the 2 bits of corian together and is the anything in particular that I should use to clean it with first?

Also, related to this, does everybody use a router table insert plate or does anyone just bolt their router straight to the bottom of their table?
I have to admit that on the dakota deluxe table I have, and my poor mans router lift..that I need to clamp a piece of 2x4 over the insert plate when I am jacking up the router otherwise the plate just comes out which is damn annoying..Although I suppose that if I had a better setup for the plate and it was actually bolted to the table (but still adjustable for levelling then this would negate the problem with needing to clamp down the plate when adjusting router height..
Interested to hear other peoples thoughts on the pros and cons of insert plates..
I don't have any problem changing router bits as the table is open underneath and its easy to get my hands in so I don't take the plate out to change bits...especially not after I have got it level..
Cheers
Timmo

 

[jasonB]

Corian make a specific epoxy, I've only ever used that but maybe another decent epoxy would work. Clean with something like meths.

The only problem with mounting your router straight to the corian is that it's 12mm thick as opposed to a 3-4mm insert plate, this can effect the amount of shank that needs to go into the collet.

If you are using that much force on the jack try taking the springs out of the router legs.

Jason

 

[Timmo]

Hi Jason,

Thanks again for your reply..I''l try some araldite or something like that then on a test piece to see how it holds..
Thanks for the tip about the router leg springs..I have actually taken them out but the problem is that the insert is only held down on the table with some rare earth magnets so they aren't strong enough..
Thats a good point about the thickness of the corian aswell..I had noticed that but whilst I do actually have a collet extension I don't actually find it that useful because it is so damn big (diameter of the part that holds the router bit) and ended up knackering a little box project I was working on when I was seperating the bottom and top with a slot cutting bit - stupid mistake..

Do you think that the corian would hold up if, for the area of the router base, I routed out some material to so I was left with 5mm say? Would that be chancing it do you think? Well I guess that as I have a fair bit I can always have a go..no harm in trying I guess.

Thanks a lot Jason for you advice.
Timmo