Concrete sectional garage workshop refurb - Work has begun.

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Blister

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You need to be careful with using OSB on the door as It is not very water resistant , When wet it falls to pieces rather quickly
 

ManowarDave

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Getting there. I like that huge electrical cabinet!

Thanks AJB. It's quite poor compared to some of the things we design. I'm just a shiny buttocks now who hasn't been on the tools for some time so it was fun to have a play.

You need to be careful with using OSB on the door as It is not very water resistant , When wet it falls to pieces rather quickly

Blister, I've seen it puff at the edges before but it's not been my experience to see a sheet fall apart. The sheets for this build were out in the rain for a couple of days before they went up on the walls. Maybe I've just been lucky. The door will be getting a couple of thick coats of exterior gloss over the primer so it should stand the test of time. If it does fail it should be easy enough to replace as it is only face screwed to the frame. Time will tell.

Dave
 

Cabinetman

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You ought to be justifiably proud of your new workshop. Absolutely ace. I wouldn’t worry about the OSB on the door and the weather, I’ve seen it used untreated outside for years and still standing. The only anything I would say is that the door isn’t particularly burglarproof (sorry). Around me there have in the past been spates of break-ins to outbuildings, and you really wouldn’t want to lose any of your good tools. Ian
 

ManowarDave

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Thanks Ian,

Burglar proofing has crossed my mind. Just needs a bit of thought. Dry and toasty has been top of the list at the moment though.

Open to any suggestions.

Dave
 

Cabinetman

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One time in my life I had shops that were always been broken into so I must admit to being a little bit keen on prevention, I would make the door open outwards so that it can’t be forced inwards, at the moment your door has very little torsional rigidity and so this would really help. It will also give you a little bit more room inside the workshop. I would fit jam bolts in case they attacked the hinges. Easy to do you need Coach screws with a half inch shank screwed into the edge of the door then you cut the heads off and when you close the door it marks the frame where to drill the hole – at a slight angle to accept the bolt, 3 should do it. Sheathing the outside of the door with zinc plate really puts them off, held in place with coach bolts right through the door.
This bit is just for information, the lock you have should be ok I think. I used to buy locks in Spain, I don’t know the name of them but it was the only place I could find them, they had a half inch square bar that slid about an inch and a half when the key was turned. They may not have been insurance security rated but they were incredibly tough, and I have never ever known a burglar to pick a lock.
In my present workshop if they do actually manage to get in, all my handtools are in a rack which I then put into my tool cupboard (with all of the above on that door as well). They don’t like to spend too long inside once they have broken in in case they are trapped so I think I’m relatively safe.Ian
 

Cabinetman

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Of course when they see your door is pretty impregnable they will just climb through the window. Bars I am afraid, bolted through the concrete not the window frame, and I always used to have the glass held in with silicon, this means that if they break the glass they can’t just pull the pieces out, and you might be very lucky that they cut themselves on it – the police do like a bit of DNA to work on. Another problem with the window is that they can see what you have in your workshop, you probably wouldn’t want to do what I’ve done and use obscured bathroom type glass, so you could just have a net curtain which drops into position when you leave the workshop. Ian
 
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