Compressor help

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seanybaby

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I have just been given a compressor. The guy said it stinks when running but, there was a leak in the pressure guage so i fixed that and it doesn't smell any more. However i've never owned a compressor and have a few questions. Here are some details.

Werther International
SA 50/24
made in 1997
2.1 cu ft min
8bar
24 litres
43dB

From what i gather it's a very small unit that is designed to run quietly.

When i switch it on, it pumps up to 130psi, then a switch triggers and goes back down to 95psi, where it will sit. Then it starts clicking every 30 secs or so. If i let air out using the escape valve, then i can let most out and doesn't start kicking in until 40psi, where it starts the cycle again and pumps up to 130, then back to 95. Is this normal for this type of compressor.

The oil seems a little low, what kind should i use? 3in1?

When letting out the air via escape valve or turning the off switch, oil seems to be sprayed over the big black box. I assume there is oil in the tank, and there should not be? There is a big nut on the bottom of the tank, but i don't have a spanner big enough. Should i try and open and empty the tank? Will it need cleaning?

I plan to use it with a basic staple gun from axminster and also to blow the shop down. I don't think it's powerful to do much else??

Where the compressor sucks the air in, should i protect it from shavings and dust? How?


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DSCF2597.jpg
 
The differential pressure switch seems to be operating ok .
Toolstation sell the oil .Draining the tank is a good idea .It can be used for tyres, blowing away dust and chippings and nail guns ,Aldi sell the bits for the above from time to time.
 
Hi Sean,

I know a bit about compressors but I'm not an expert....

The first problem is that the safety valve is cutting in too early, 130psi is about 9 bar, so it's set a little high but should be ok. When it's blowing the valve it's taking you down to nearer 6 Bar. You want it to read 116psi when full (cos that's 8 bar)

To do this have a look at the plastic box where the switch is. There should be a screw set into the top, undo this and there is a nut of some kind inside?? If you turn it one way it will increase the pressure cut off point, turn it the other it will turn it down. Turn yours down a bit, this should stop it blowing the safety valve.

Oil does tend to go into the tank a little, as does some water. In the picture, just below your finger is a tap, undo this when the tank is full of air and it will blow out a load of watery/oily air. Be ready cos it's a bit noisey and messy but will get rid of your nasty's inside the tank.

Not sure exactly the number of the oil to get but Axminster do "Compressor Oil" so just by some of that!

It is quite a small compressor so no spraying with it but it will do all that you suggest in your post.

Enjoy!!

Richard
 
Agree with the above. The auto switches seem set fine. The tank needs the oil/water emulsion draining, and remember to drain it every few hours run time. (The oil from the sump is splashed into the compression low pressure side to lubricate the valves, this then falls out into the tank. The act of compressing air forces the water vapour out of the air, and it falls into the tamk - think of a gaseous Camvac).
Only use rated compressor oil, available as stated, or Machine mart, or any motor factor, or BOC, or any divingshop etc.etc. If really stuck Castrol GTX is also useable (but NO other vehicle oil).
 
Hiya

Looks to me like one of many OEM compressors made by Jun Air. They will be able to tell you which one it is or you might find it on their support web site. They have a huge range of spares available. My company used to resell them years ago and they are a very reputable company.

HTH
 
That has to be the worst pun I have heard for a long time. Please accept a "make Gareth fall of his chair" point.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Thanks for the advice guys.

Richard, i have taken the top off the switch box and in there is 2 large springs and 1 small one, all with nuts on the top. Is it one of these that i turn to change the pressure? Does it need turning down, therefore making it keep a full tank of air at 116psi.

DSCF2599.jpg


I'm thinking of getting the cheap yellow airline from axminster with 'Male bayonet coupling'. Any ideas which connector/adapter i need to connect it to the compressor. My compressor seems to have a thread of about 13mm.

DSCF2600.jpg
 
Sean, the tank is full of air at 14.7psi when the compressor is turned off. If you need 16psi output you'll need to fit a regulator on the outlet line to step the tank pressure down. I'm not aware of any air tools that would work with 16psi tho'. The normal system pumps a tank up to maintain output without needing the compressor to continually run. So the higher pressure (within it's safety limits) the longer the tank will last, and the less the compressor will run.
At work I store 23,760 cu ft of air at 4,000 psi to give me a lot of air at 27psi before I need to knock the compressors on.
 
Normally pressure gauges indicate the excess pressure over atmospheric pressure as this excess is the pressure that does the work in the tool.

Bob
 
Assuming this is home use you have nothing to worry about apart from getting it working properly. Commercial use the tank would need certifying for pressure which would cost more than it is worth. I'm no compressor expert but I have used them for many years. i wouldn't run something of that age and untested at much over 100 psi.
Newer compressors are worth filling with the right oil but our older one ran for 20 years on cheap engine oil before elf and safety noticed it and wanted it pressure tested. That test had to be repeated at regular intervals so we bought a new one that wouldn't need testing for a while.

If you put a lubricator in the air line to add oil to the air then that oil is completely different and has to be the right stuff. You only need a lubricator if using tools with air motors in them. Bad idea for spraying :)
 
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