Collet advice

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Bloc75

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Hi,

Apologies if this is the wrong channel, I couldn't find a power tools one.

Anyway, I've decided to look into routing and have the Makita DRT50 model, it came with what I thought was a collet, and I know the model supports 1/4" and 3/8". So obviously no bits came with it, so off I went to get some bits - I assumed that 1/4 bits would fit - so that's what I bought. They don't fit into the hole on the collet. They are definitely 1/4" bits, so unless I have massively missed a gaping obvious issue here, I'm at a complete loss.

Am I going mad?
 

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The tool shank too big to fit in the collet? Sounds like you have a metric 6mm collet.

Edit: Sorry, not that.
 
I think you are right, I’ve just been sniffing around Amazon and there is chatter that the collet supplied doesn’t fit 1/4 bits. Which is odd.
 
Just as a matter of intrest, does your 1/4ins bits fit into the back end of the collet? It does seem an odd problem. I have the cheap Katsu 240v version of this router and intrestingly the collect does not operate in quite the same way as my other machines, the collect is not pulled out by a second set of turns if that makes sense, and to fit the bits its nessesary to pull the nut quite far back and then push the shank into the collect.
If I had bought this machine and it truly has been supplied with some oddball sized collet I would be expecting the correct one free,,,or perhaps Im being unreasonable?
Steve
 
Just as a matter of intrest, does your 1/4ins bits fit into the back end of the collet? It does seem an odd problem. I have the cheap Katsu 240v version of this router and intrestingly the collect does not operate in quite the same way as my other machines, the collect is not pulled out by a second set of turns if that makes sense, and to fit the bits its nessesary to pull the nut quite far back and then push the shank into the collect.
If I had bought this machine and it truly has been supplied with some oddball sized collet I would be expecting the correct one free,,,or perhaps Im being unreasonable?
Steve

Nope, doesn't fit either way. It's not a massive problem - an inconvenience at worst really.
 
IIRC all UK-spec DRT50 are only supplied with the 1/4" collet, some other markets get both the 1/4" and 3/8" collets and the smallest I've heard of for the DRT50 is a 6mm - if it has been supplied with the incorrect collet, you should contact the supplier to get it replaced.

My DRT50 was supplied with the 1/4" collet but, initially, I couldn't insert 1/4" shanks.

I hunted around and found warnings about tightening the collet nut too much without a bit inserted as that will compress the collet too much so it looks like the factory assembly may be at fault.

I resolved the issue by tapping an old router bit in through the rear of the collet to open it back up, I removed and repeated this a couple of times until I could insert a bit normally by hand. Since then there has been no problem, loosen the nut, remove the cutter, insert a new one, tighten the nut.

It must be the angle because the shank in the photo really does look larger than 1/4" to me - here's my 1/4" collet with a 1/4" shank cutter and a ruler for reference
collett&cutter.jpg
 
Well if it doesnt go in from the back then it does seem that you have been supplied with a 6mm collet,,as has been said, just a tad smaller but enough to stop you fitting it,,you really ought to chase the supplier up for a replacement, I suspect he picked them up cheap somewhere as a cancelled export order or the like and maybe doesn't know about the collets?
 
Im sure we would all be interested to hear how you get on if you do contact them,,with us all buying more and more off the internet a quick response and tales of good (or bad) customer service when you do have a problem are well worth knowing about,,good luck.
 
Just contacted them, I am not holding out any hope and probably won't take it any further than that really, but I'll report back anything that comes back.
 
Hi everyone,

This question may be a tad off topic but it's still fits.
I also got the Makita DRT50Z (portable) router.
I've placed the 1/4" coller on the router but now I'm unable to remove it. It simply doesn't come out.
I'm I missing something or is there some sort of a defection with the collar? Any suggestion on how to remove it? Thanks
 

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I have no knowledge of your machine, but in my experience a router collet and nut clip together internally and are inserted as a unit. Thus undoing the nut slackens & withdraws the collet. Where's your nut? Did you clamp the nut down on the collet as a separate item?

As for your immediate problem, you need to judiciously prise the collet out with a thin blade. Be delicate - use minimum force. Don't snap the end off your penknife. Afterwards, check the collet and its shaft receptor surfaces for any burrs that you might've raised during the prising - and abrade them smooth.
 
I have no knowledge of your machine, but in my experience a router collet and nut clip together internally and are inserted as a unit. Thus undoing the nut slackens & withdraws the collet. Where's your nut? Did you clamp the nut down on the collet as a separate item?

As for your immediate problem, you need to judiciously prise the collet out with a thin blade. Be delicate - use minimum force. Don't snap the end off your penknife. Afterwards, check the collet and its shaft receptor surfaces for any burrs that you might've raised during the prising - and abrade them smooth.
I first inserted the collet, (without pushing all the way down). Then I've put the nut on top and screw it. When I unscrew it, the collet remains in the position as seen in the photos. I tried to use pliers to take it out but it seem to snapped somewhere inside.
 
Same as Rogxwhit, I have no knowledge of your machine, but as he said, generally collets 'snap' into the nut first (they close up slightly when you push them in), then you screw the nut onto the router. As the nut tightens the collet closes up to grip the cutter.
When you loosen the nut it releases pressure on the collet so you can change cutters. If you remove the nut completely, the collet is removed as well, at which point you snap it out of the nut.

Just found this,

 
Same as Rogxwhit, I have no knowledge of your machine, but as he said, generally collets 'snap' into the nut first (they close up slightly when you push them in), then you screw the nut onto the router. As the nut tightens the collet closes up to grip the cutter.
When you loosen the nut it releases pressure on the collet so you can change cutters. If you remove the nut completely, the collet is removed as well, at which point you snap it out of the nut.

Just found this,


Hi Peri

Thanks for the video. The collet of my Makita unfortunately it's a bit different as you can see here:

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-763637-1-Collet-Cone-4-Inch/dp/B00080BJRA
 
Hi everyone,

This question may be a tad off topic but it's still fits.
I also got the Makita DRT50Z (portable) router.
I've placed the 1/4" coller on the router but now I'm unable to remove it. It simply doesn't come out.
I'm I missing something or is there some sort of a defection with the collar? Any suggestion on how to remove it? Thanks
try getting a small jubilee type hose clip and tighten it around the end of the collet to close it, there might be just enough sticking out for it to grip. Then hopefully it will come out.
 
I've got that Malita, wonderful little tool. I had a bit that was really tight getting out. When I got the bit out, eventually, I got the collet out too. just by hand. Problem was that there was a lot of crud in the collet housing, very fine dust solidified by softwood resin and so on, I cleaned that out, and all is well. Could it be that you have the same problem as me, albeit somewhat worse? Doesn't help your problem, but may explain it. Hope you get it sorted
 
I first inserted the collet, (without pushing all the way down). Then I've put the nut on top and screw it.
It seems that that's where you went wrong & you should've clipped collet and nut together first. Now you've over-compressed the collet and it's gripping tightly on its taper. Don't give up! Keep trying to improvise a way of hooking it out. Once it's out, just be alert for signs of damage that you might've caused in the process because all the mating surfaces are finely machined and need to remain so to (1) provide a grip and (2) remain concentric.
 
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