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Chippygeoff

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Hi Guys and Girls.

Just having a break from the workshop. I am making a batch of mice at the moment and I am having a bit of a problem when it comes to drilling for the ears, eyes and the hole for the tail. I make 4mm and 5mm holes for these about 10mm deep but for the life of me I cannot get a clean hole. Unfortunately because of the nature of the item and the angle I have to go in at I cannot do it on the drill press. I had thought of making a jig for the pillar drill but each mouse is individual so I use a small cordless drill. I have tried ordinary drill bits, brad point and last week i invested in some titanium drill bits but I am still getting tear out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I tried adding a photo of a mouse I had made but failed. many thanks.

Geoff
 

Tazmaniandevil

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I always cover where I want to drill with a few layers of lo-tac masking tape. It's the initial cuts by the drill bit that cause the breakout I believe, and if these are made in tape the cuts are much cleaner by the time the bit reaches the timber.
 

Chrispy

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Not saying it will always work but, if your using a cordless drill and drilling small dia holes then try starting the hole with the drill in reverse to make a small indent and then drill as normal, I find doing this controls the initial bite of the drill bit.
If that fails then sometimes I regrind the cutting edge to that of a scraping action, won't be easy with 4mm drill.
 

Weasel Howlett

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Have you tried drilling a pilot hole of about 0.5mm-1.00mm first and then moving up through larger bits till you get to the desired size? Takes time but may get the results you are after.
 

chipmunk

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Two other ideas to try;
Countersink the hole to slightly bigger than the required diameter with a small snail countersink before drilling. ArcEuroTrade sell a nice 5 piece set for £20.

Use a DeWalt Extreme 2 bullet point drill. These drills are pretty similar to a brad-point style drill bit, having a short smaller diameter section at the end, but tend to drill nice and cleanly and are brilliant for pen blanks IMHO. Unfortunately they now only have the real bullet-points at 5mm and above so it'll only solve half your problems if it works.

Jon
 

Chippygeoff

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Thanks to everyone for tips and advice. I always do the holes with a small bit first and then go in with a bigger one after so it does not slip on the curved surfaces. Thanks for the info on the DeWalt bits Jon, I will certainly be getting some of those. And thanks Crispy, starting the bigger drill in reverse has certainly helps a lot, I am just drilling out 20 mice and it works a treat. Thanks also to Tasmaniandevil, I will remember that trick for other applications I have in mind.

Geoff
 

Richard Findley

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Hi Geoff

Your other option would be to roughly turn your mice to shape, drill then take a finishing cut and sand to clean up, that should clear up any tear out.

HTH

Richard
 

John. B

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Geoff,

You could use a small bean bag on the drill press. all you will need to do is to hold it steady in the bag with a good quality brad point,

with high RPM you should not get tearout. Drilling by hand is difficult to get a clean entry/exit which is the probable cause of the tearout

John. B
 

Graigmerched

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Have a go with a dremel tile cutter bit. It's what I use for my pierced bowls and if you have a look at one of them in one of my posts you can see there is no tear out.

Best Regards

Steve
 

gregmcateer

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Geoff,

How about drilling the eyes before the turning - then you should hopefully lose the tear-out when you shape the finished item.

Failing that - tell the punter they're ..... three blind mice !

Sorry - hat, coat....
 

Spindle

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Hi

I would suggest using a lip and spur bit at as high a speed and as low a feed as you can manage - that coupled with a layer or two of masking tape should provide the result you're after.

Regards Mick
 
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