Clarke CTS10D 10" table saw blade spanners.

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Timthetangent

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I bought this very basic model a few years ago. It got used fairly infrequently, but the blade is now too blunt so I went to replace and now realise that the saw didn't come with the two spanners required for this operation. There's a 5 month backlog/waiting list from Clarke's and their spares re-sellers for this pair of spanners and I have to rip a fair bit of timber asap. Nowhere does it say in the handbook what size the spanners need to be (clearly the exposed nut size gives a measurable clue) but the purpose of posting this thread (yes, get to the point - sorry I have ADHD and propensity for verbosity) is to seek advice if any other spanners can be used for this.
 
shouldn't be anything special about the Clarke provided spanners, they maybe thin if there is not enough gap to get a wider spanner onto the nut.

Do you have any normal spanners that you can use to offer upto the nut to at least check for size?
 
shouldn't be anything special about the Clarke-provided spanners, they maybe thin if there is not enough gap to get a wider spanner onto the nut.

Do you have any normal spanners that you can use to offer up to the nut to at least check for size?

Thank you Rorton. Yes that was my first thought (that the thickness of spanners might be an issue). I do have a reasonable set of tools including ring and socket sets and I have just had new brushes and the blade delivered, so will set about it this afternoon.
 
Wedge the blade and use adjustable spanner on the nut, remember it's most likely left hand thread.

Thanks Graham. I did exactly that on my chop saw last week. The device that locks the rotation of the motor for blade removal is defective. It was very finicky and caused a torrent of expletives and a grazed thumb, but proved worth the effort.
 
Last time I changed a blade on my table saw I was able to wedge the teeth against some sacrificial wood and then use a spanner on the nuts. This might be easier than using the (defective) locking device.

Here's a random video showing the same process. I thought there was a Wandel video showing it, but this came up first:
 
My unisaw didn't come with wrenches either. A regular 7/8 wrench fits the exposed nut (left hand thread) but I needed a thin wrench to fit the flats on the shaft behind the blade. A 22mm cone wrench from a bicycle shop did the trick.
 
Thanks yes. I've been on the computer for too many consecutive days so went for a long walk today to clear out the cobwebs. Back to the saw tomorrow. I'm pretty sure I'll get by with what I've got. I bought a set of brushes too to check and sort if necessary whilst I'm opening it all up. Sorting dust extraction soon too. Read a great thread on here about the risks. It was dust that killed my dad 34 years ago (asbestos). It wasn't until the article I realised just how dangerous sawdust fine particulate is too. I was aware it needed a mask, but it was a really good wake up call. This site is great. Thanks for the advice.
 
The update is that I stumbled at the "remove single bolt to release the blade guard". Single bolt elusive. The handbook has the complete parts map and no bolts listed. Attempted to remove one screw (as close to a bolt as I could find) and immediately regretted it. It's sprung so getting it lined up again without crossing the thread will be a finicky finger strength requiring task. With arthritis in both of my hands it's yet another reminder of things I can no longer do. I'm getting someone in now. I'm not a fan of this getting old malarkey, but a dear (and very talented) woodworker friend who offered me his workshop and all the tools when he retired at 94 was still turning bowls and hand carving animals right up until he shut down the workshop and moved to his daughter's place. His talent with wood was far beyond my skill level, but a joy to watch. I'm therefore hopeful that I have a few years of making stuff. Sometimes admitting you need help and that life can be a right noo noo at times can be quite liberating.
 
I know what you mean :( it can be a proper pain when things don't work like they did just a few years ago, if it's not the hand's it's the knees or both. I consider it a great day when both decide to work at the same time :LOL:
 
I know what you mean :( it can be a proper pain when things don't work like they did just a few years ago, if it's not the hand's it's the knees or both. I consider it a great day when both decide to work at the same time :LOL:

I seem to have hijacked my own thread here to one of aches, pains and medical history! My right knee too has a bit of arthritis and it hasn't been the same since I came off my bicycle on the ice about 12 years ago and broke my patella. To get back on thread (almost) the knee so far hasn't noticeably impaired my ability to get round the workshop though and I'm just off for a 10 mile walk in the Peak District - which is easy for me because that's where I live.
 

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