Chuck removal, what wedges?

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SteveLuck

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I picked up a Walker Turner Bench Drill from ebay about a month back. It looks great, really solid and cannot wait to get it out of my kitchen and in to the workshop, fortunately my girl friend is very tolerant of my ebay purchases waiting in the kitchen till I find space in my shop!

I've got her running (the drill) however there is a lot of runout; after some investigation I believe this is coming from the chuck. I am going to replace this however need to know what morse taper it is so I can buy the correct chuck removal wedges. Any idea how I find out what size morse taper I have?

I have the options to buy JT1, JT2, JT3, JT6 chuck wedges but have no idea what ones I need.

The chuck only has the following information on it - Jacobs Chuck No 33 5/64-1/2 2 - 13mm

Please help.

Thanks

Steve
 
The jacobs site has a lot of information maybe you can find something there.

If your drill spindle is solid and does not have a slot for use of a morse taper removal with a key/wedge then you may have to remove the chuck with a couple of taper wedges

Once the chuck is removed checking the dimensions of the rear taper should give you confirmation of the taper standard although I would say it's almost certainly Jacobs #33.
 
Morse taper (drill shaft) / Jacobs taper (back of chuck) adaptors aren't uncommon and don't have to be expensive. The drill will likely be MT2, unless it's huge.

I'd do a few checks first to establish where the runout is coming from: can you get a dial gauge onto the shaft of the drill (above the MT socket), and turn it by hand?

The JT is more steeply angled than the Morse taper, which makes me wonder if the chuck isn't seated properly., or the taper adaptor is bent somehow. If the chuck is obviously damaged, you'll have to replace it, but you can get a decent quality set (chuck + MT2 adaptor) reasonably cheaply.

I've got three different sizes of chuck for my pillar drill, the smallest being a Rohm keyless. The Morse taper adaptors stay with the chucks, making changeover reasonably fast. They do fall out occasionally though, and you have to keep the MT clean otherwise they don't centre. A slight amount of rust would upset it, on either part of the MT, or the JT.

I'd check the MT is clean (both the male and female bits), and consider replacing both the chuck and the MT if you can't sort it another way.

E.
 
Late reply but may be of general use.

To choose the wedge size required for chuck removal look at the gap above the chuck where it is attached to the machine spindle, then measure the diameter of the visible spindle. Choose the wedges that have the closest dimension to that, obviously it must be larger than the spindle diam.

This link will be of use

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... ges-Drifts
 
SteveLuck":3exkacv9 said:
I picked up a Walker Turner Bench Drill from ebay about a month back. It looks great, really solid and cannot wait to get it out of my kitchen and in to the workshop, fortunately my girl friend is very tolerant of my ebay purchases waiting in the kitchen till I find space in my shop!

I've got her running (the drill) however there is a lot of runout; after some investigation I believe this is coming from the chuck. I am going to replace this however need to know what morse taper it is so I can buy the correct chuck removal wedges. Any idea how I find out what size morse taper I have?

I have the options to buy JT1, JT2, JT3, JT6 chuck wedges but have no idea what ones I need.

The chuck only has the following information on it - Jacobs Chuck No 33 5/64-1/2 2 - 13mm

Please help.

Thanks

Steve

Hi Steve,

Just read your post again.

I assume you are trying to remove the chuck directly from the spindle of the machine? this will require the wedges

If the chuck is fitted to a Morse taper adapter that is fitted internally in the spindle that would be removed from the spindle through a slot in the side using a drift.

Over the years I have seen many chucks, even machine spindles that no longer run true due to attempted removal using levers & force, rather than wedges or a drift.

Regards,
Keith
 
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