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Trevanion

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Nice bits of kit there! How much did you pay for them in the end? I know you've been after a no 071 for a while now but the massive eBay cost of them put you off. When I bought my 071, I paid £25 for one that had never been used, still in the original box with the 3 cutters and fence. That was only 4 or 5 years ago or so! Prices really have shot up in the last year or so.
 

Osvaldd

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Just under £40 for both. Side rebate was brand new in a box, the router is used but %100 complete including the box and a wee instruction manual, which is nice . I'm rather pleased.
 

AndyT

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That's astonishingly low. Presumably there won't be any more from the same place at the same price, so can you give us a clue as to how you got so lucky? :D
 

ED65

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Wow you did well. Congrats! That's a good price for some years ago, v v low by current prices.
 

ED65

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AndyT":ys4k6iqx said:
Presumably there won't be any more from the same place at the same price, so can you give us a clue as to how you got so lucky? :D
I know I go on about it a bit but prices this good are semi-regular on Gumtree.

Case in point, just a short while ago there was a Stanley 13-050, very clean and with full set of cutters in original sleeve for £35. And that's not even the best deal I've recorded in the past 12 months.
 

Mr_Pea

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Very well spotted, I sold my 071 when they started fetching silly money.

Chap on another forum was so saying this was for the perfect tool for tendons. Has some internet guru been demonstrating this ? It never even occurred to me to do it that way.

Might explain the elevated price and why shoulder planes are so cheap

Seriously you can get a Norris shoulder for the price of an ebay 071

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NORRIS-No-18 ... 7675.l2557

Not mine but I did buy a lovely marked slater shoulder with ebony infills recently for £50
 

AndyT

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Mr_Pea":1nkigqai said:
Chap on another forum was so saying this was for the perfect tool for tendons. Has some internet guru been demonstrating this ? It never even occurred to me to do it that way.
Paul Sellers. Lots of followers on YouTube including many in the US who enjoy the current exchange rate and eBay global shipping.

No bother to those of us who worked out the usefulness of a router for ourselves, or read Robert Wearing, and bought one years ago when they were an ordinary tool. Bit of a problem for anyone starting out though.
 

Osvaldd

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Just a local friendly exchange. As ED65 pointed out, there are deals out there but they are becoming few and far between. I paid £25 for a Record no 7 last year. I could never justify £100 for a router though.
Been to a local carboot this morning. More and more I notice even older sellers are starting to quote eBay prices, telling me they saw this or that thing go on ebay for x-amount. Kills the fun of bargain hunting.
 

Mr_Pea

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erm, erm look good ?

Never used one but look a faff to set-up compared to the simplicity of a shoulder.

Fences and depth gauge, gimmick or useful ?
 

Osvaldd

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You mean fence and depth gauge on a router plane? I can't see myself ever using them. In fact I was looking to buy the simpler 71 1/2 model, but this came up at a too good price to not buy it
 

SammyQ

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You Sir, are an official Jammy Barsteward! :D Nice one!!

I have a Record 073, a No10, a 778 and a router slightly more patinated (rusty) than yours...so...here's some experience:

"what does a shoulder plane do that a no 78 couldn't?"
My Record 074 is a tonne weight. That makes the trimming of tenon shoulders really easy, as once started, the momentum and gravitas of the thing tend to hold it steady through the cut and even knots get trimmed snoothly (but you NEED a sharp blade). Helps a lot that they are bevel up and shallow angle. The sides on mine are mercifully square to the sole and I find running the side on a properly cut tennon face ensures a right angle to the shoulder face.
Your 78 cannot trim tenon shoulders in this fashion, and, even though it excels in cutting rebates to depth, it is debatable if one could hold it properly across the small breadth of a tenon to achieve an even tenon. It is also across the grain and your router cutter will be more efficient here.
The router you have can be easily adapted to cut tenon faces, see reference to Bob Wearing's 'router foot' arrangement, long used in the past before power in workshops became common. The 'foot' can be attached via the fence holes in the sole.

Staying with the fence, I personally found it got me out of a cople of snags, particularly with a rounded table-top edge, just had to mind the grain direction VERY carefully.

The depth guage IS useful, but as someone said, the router just stops cutting at the set depth.

My 778 and your 78 can cut rebates WITH the grain, even up to within a few mm of the end of a stopped rebate. My No10 cannot, as the sole is far too long in front of the blade.

HTH, Sam.
 

Osvaldd

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Care to elaborate on the Bob Wearing's 'router foot', Sam. I'm searching the web but nothing came up. Is it from the book Making Woodwork Aids and Devices ?
 

SammyQ

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Sure, but I am back on Norn Iron presently, reference book is in Northumberland...can you havepatience until Monday evening please? I'll scan and send you a copy.

Sam
 

Osvaldd

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No problem, I've no idea what it is so I probably won't miss it until Monday. Cheers.
 

AndyT

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Osvaldd":1l6n82re said:
mystery..
You don't put it together like that!
The long shiny bit goes in the front if the router, held by a thumbscrew. It serves two purposes. Mostly you'll want it level with the base, to close up the open mouth of the router.

Out of the tool, it can be used to measure the depth of a housing, by adjusting how much stem pokes down below the foot. For a very narrow housing, turn the stem round and use the narrow end.
 

AndyT

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Osvaldd":1nmiuc3d said:
Care to elaborate on the Bob Wearing's 'router foot', Sam. I'm searching the web but nothing came up. Is it from the book Making Woodwork Aids and Devices ?
It's an extra wooden base with an adjustable bit at right angles.

A much quicker and simpler approach, if you want to use a router to level off a tenon, is to use an offcut of the same thickness as the workpiece and arrange things on a flat surface so the router bridges across the two pieces of wood.
 
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