Choosing a scroll-saw. Why pay more? the answer is here.
- Thread starter scrimper
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AES
Established Member
@ Droogs (and anyone else interested): I MAY have got to the bottom of the current situation, but it's complicated, so I'll do a new post (within 30 mins of posting this) under the heading "Excalibur" scroll saws".
Cheers
Cheers
SamL
Established Member
Thanks very much for the videos!
Good thread so far, and I concur that some are fiddly for blade changes - especially for anyone with dexterity issues.
I'd appreciate some comments on other aspects of the saws (my own needs are for cutting delicate frets, but I don't need to use the saw very frequently). Specifically when looking for a saw to buy, deciding whether single or variable / multiple speed, and if buying online (i.e. unseen) how to choose a model with "manageable" vibration? (The latter important for those whose workspace demands the saw must be moved around).
My limited experience is that a single speed saw must be fixed firmly to avoid walking across the underlying surface, but the first video of the cheaper saw suggested otherwise (maybe mine is faulty?).
Views appreciated.
I'd appreciate some comments on other aspects of the saws (my own needs are for cutting delicate frets, but I don't need to use the saw very frequently). Specifically when looking for a saw to buy, deciding whether single or variable / multiple speed, and if buying online (i.e. unseen) how to choose a model with "manageable" vibration? (The latter important for those whose workspace demands the saw must be moved around).
My limited experience is that a single speed saw must be fixed firmly to avoid walking across the underlying surface, but the first video of the cheaper saw suggested otherwise (maybe mine is faulty?).
Views appreciated.
scrimper
Established Member
For cutting delicate fretwork I would recommend variable speed, you can manage with single speed but a variable speed gives you much more control and makes cutting more relaxed.
Vibration is an issue with some models and often worse when the machine uses a universal or brush-type motor rather than an induction motor which apart from running smoother are much more reliable.
My first decent saw was the Diamond which was a very well build British machine but vibration is dreadful, if you placed it on a bench and turned it on it would vibrate all over the place, the only way to 'control' it is to bolt it to a very sturdy bench and bolt the bench to the floor. (My youtube channel has a video on the Diamond)
A few years later I bought a Hegner and what a difference, vibration was minimal and it could be used just placed on a bench. I found it a joy to use and 24 years later I still love the machine. Hegners are expensive but not for one moment have I ever regretted buying the machine. On the downside if you need a spare part the price they charge for them is horrendous and in my view totally over the top. however the machines are very reliable.
My buying advice is
1) Buy a decent make and don't be fooled by some makers who stick their logo on a Cheap far east machine and infer that it is quality.
2) Choose a machine with an induction motor if you possibly can
3) Make sure it is very easy to change blades (awkward blade changing will drive you mad if doing lot's of internal cutting).
4) Make sure it has a quick blade tension device (for the same reason as above)
Buy a quality machine to start with, it will encourage you to keep using it and if you really get fed up you can sell it for a decent sum, whereas a cheap saw that is awkward to use will more likely put you off the hobby for good plus it will be more difficult to sell.
All my personal opinions others will think differently.
Vibration is an issue with some models and often worse when the machine uses a universal or brush-type motor rather than an induction motor which apart from running smoother are much more reliable.
My first decent saw was the Diamond which was a very well build British machine but vibration is dreadful, if you placed it on a bench and turned it on it would vibrate all over the place, the only way to 'control' it is to bolt it to a very sturdy bench and bolt the bench to the floor. (My youtube channel has a video on the Diamond)
A few years later I bought a Hegner and what a difference, vibration was minimal and it could be used just placed on a bench. I found it a joy to use and 24 years later I still love the machine. Hegners are expensive but not for one moment have I ever regretted buying the machine. On the downside if you need a spare part the price they charge for them is horrendous and in my view totally over the top. however the machines are very reliable.
My buying advice is
1) Buy a decent make and don't be fooled by some makers who stick their logo on a Cheap far east machine and infer that it is quality.
2) Choose a machine with an induction motor if you possibly can
3) Make sure it is very easy to change blades (awkward blade changing will drive you mad if doing lot's of internal cutting).
4) Make sure it has a quick blade tension device (for the same reason as above)
Buy a quality machine to start with, it will encourage you to keep using it and if you really get fed up you can sell it for a decent sum, whereas a cheap saw that is awkward to use will more likely put you off the hobby for good plus it will be more difficult to sell.
All my personal opinions others will think differently.
Thanks - much appreciated. Moving to variable speed is on my list. My existing machine vibrates extensively and left unbolted will walk off the bench as soon as I look away despite having a few parts replaced / updated. What has confused me to date is it's a single speed Hegner so the comment on the motor seems very relevant (and welcome). It pre-dates the quick tension release - another essential for the future.
scroller frank
Established Member
I have an old two speed Delta ,it has the quick change blade fitting, wouldn't swap it for a Hegner
Think its fantastic ,heavy and dosen't vibrate all over the place,
They do crop up on Ebay now n again. Good luck with whatever you end up with so long as you're having fun !
I use mine for model makingdavedoublem
Established Member
Glad I found this section of the forum as just put up a post in the wanted section looking for a scroll saw. I'm new to wood working although I did buy a generic scroll saw from B&Q many moons ago solely to cut some wood strips and that was all, so never used it to its full potential.
I'm now looking for a variable speed saw that also allows for easy internal scrolling. I'm new to having to change blades and not sure if all scroll saws are adapted for internal scrolling in a piece of wood.
Where does one also buy blades for brands that aren't made anymore just incase I find something online. Can generic blades be used?
I'm now looking for a variable speed saw that also allows for easy internal scrolling. I'm new to having to change blades and not sure if all scroll saws are adapted for internal scrolling in a piece of wood.
Where does one also buy blades for brands that aren't made anymore just incase I find something online. Can generic blades be used?
AES
Established Member
See the sticky (permanent post) at the top of THIS Scrolling and Scrollsaw section.
davedoublem
Established Member
Many thanks. I think I found the post you mention but for someone that is a novice and only looking to cut 25mm would slices and the likes of 20mm simple plywood shapes what is the recommended blade to use? I'm very confused when it comes to pinned and painless blades.
Let's also say I want to cut an internal circle into a 25mm wood slice and use to keep the internal circular cut to create a 3 dimension step by raising it from the original slices surface, what blade would be most suitable?
scrimper
Established Member
Have you looked at my website? I have a whole page devoted to the issue of blades comparing pin end and plain blades. There is also more blade information on the "Fretwork help page". the link is in my signature.
AES
Established Member
AND, to echo scrimper's comment above dave, there's more info in the sticky post about sourcing and selecting blades in this Scrolling/Scroll Saws section - including tables of info you can download, AND suggestions as to what blade (type, not manufacturer) for different wood, thicknesses, types of job, etc, etc.
I accept that it is a bit confusing to the newcomer, but you'll quickly find that you develop your own preferences as your experience grows. But the abobe-mentioned downloadable table about which blade to use when IS a good starting point. And basically, the only real difference between pinned and pinless blades (apart from price!) is that the pinless blade will go through a smaller dia hole (when making internal cuts) than a pinned blade.
davedoublem
Established Member
Thanks, will take a look.
I decided to buy a Scrollsaw in October and like many I didn’t wasn’t to spend too much at the start in case the hobby was not for me. I bought a Charnwood 16F because it had a foot pedal which I believe is really important. The other selling point was that it also had a light which I thought would be handy but it wasn’t any good. I agree that internal cutting could be frustrating but was able to get hold of the Pozsgai EZ blade holder system which took away the pain. I was fortunate as I have a daughter living in the US that could send it to me as he does not export.
I am really enjoying this and have today finished cutting all the gears for the 30 hour clock!
I am really enjoying this and have today finished cutting all the gears for the 30 hour clock!
