Choice of timber

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Got a Siberian larch sample in the post which looks promising..
 

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Graham I would say yes.....thats why u should use brass or st/steel fixings in Oak.....
it;s the Tannin.....
normal steel just rots in Oak I have found.....esp outside.....
 
Would this larch last outdoors at all without any treatment? Or is there a best finish for this,

I have osmo poly-x clear or one with a white stain to it, or a uv protection osmo...
 
To be fair, I don't think we have Mike. As this now is a different timber, and Im not sure I really accept that Osmo is not for horizontal surfaces. For a start, the Oslo transparent, with a white pigment is recommeded for floors, and a description of how to apply it is on the website, clearly showing them applying it on floor boards,

So Im just asking for a correct or best treatment for Larch which I am now using, I have various places I'd like to use it both interior and exterior. Exterior as hand rails, interior as steps in, as a thick door trim, and possibly for cladding the inside wall. I may even do a scorched wood for this,

But no, this is a boat on rivers, so fresh water. I read description on the timber yards website that Siberian Larch can even be left untreated, but thought it best to ask in here first.

Thanks
 
You need to go on a boat renovation forum. There is a reason why high end boat yards use teak (and similar substitutes like Iroko) for decking. Oak, love it as I do, is totally unsuitable in conjunction with steel.

Pine. Of any description. No. Thrice no.
 
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To be fair, I don't think we have Mike. As this now is a different timber, and Im not sure I really accept that Osmo is not for horizontal surfaces......

I'm an architect. I specify these sorts of things, and I have to check their suitability for the intended purpose before I so do. I specified a lot of Osmo UV protection oil in a sheltered outdoor location in a building I did 8 or 10 years ago, and had a long conversation with the technical department of OSMO at the time. Now, you can believe me, or you can go through the process of talking to OSMO yourself directly. The thing is though Graham, I am right, and I know I am right. I'm not making this stuff up. Your choice.....

Oh, and it is nothing to do with the timber. It was horizontal surfaces that was forbidden, irrespective of the timber.
 
Here you are:


  • UV-Protection Oils are recommended only for vertically structured timber (drip angle min. 10º) to enable the rain to drip off rather than stay on the wood's surface for prolonged lengths of time.
From Osmo's website, second bullet point under "tips".
 
To be fair, I don't think we have Mike. As this now is a different timber, and Im not sure I really accept that Osmo is not for horizontal surfaces. For a start, the Oslo transparent, with a white pigment is recommeded for floors, and a description of how to apply it is on the website, clearly showing them applying it on floor boards,

Mike is talking about the Osmo UV protection oil specifically, which is not to be used on horizontal surfaces.

Larch is fine unfinished externally as it will just silver up and offer its own protection and you may get 10 years or more out of it.
 
Thanks all, Think I'll lay them horizontally and apply uv protection oil from Osmo, like Mike suggested.

Mike suggested the complete opposite of that, UV Protection Oil IS NOT suitable for horizontal (flat) surfaces. I've seen what can happen myself, the finish goes all flaky, water damaged and looks terrible.
 
Yacht varnish is your friend, you can almost use any timber , except yellow pine, just carefully apply 10 or 12 coats of superior yacht varnish rubbed down with wet and dry between each coat and make sure all your guest remove their shoes.......or use teak, which if your crew scrub daily with salt water will take a most pleasing pale colour.
As a little saying from the boatyard, the 3 most useless things on a boat are....
A wheelbarrow,
An umbrella,
And a naval officer......
Oops..
Hat, coat etc...
 
Problem with most of the woods mentioned is that they are kiln dried, so that they can be used indoors. They dry the bejesus out of the wood which is not ideal if you are using it outside. European Larch air dried is one of the best woods. Most of the Larch sold is Hybrid with Japanese Larch. You can get 2 types of Iroko here at sawmills. Dark and light. First pic is Euro Larch. Second is a garden seat in Iroko.
 

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There’s a larch plantation behind where I live. They had to cut it down due to disease.

It is the traditional wood for making farm gates. The guy with the plantation sold several miles of the larch for railings. Doesn’t need finishing with anything as naturally very oily.

In days of yore, Larch was also the preferred timber for boat making as it is straight grained and mainly free of knots. This makes me think it is the perfect wood for your application.

My only warning is that it is a b*gger for splitting down the grain, so treat it with care. I was given some beautifully grained larch pieces for guitar making, but the router didn’t like it at all.

here’s a little piece I used.
C83FB01B-ACD6-4876-AEC6-62B392894FAE.jpeg
 

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